Posted on 5 Comments

Jones Trousers Tester Makes

Hello, Hello! It has been a bit of a whirlwind with the release of the Jones Trousers. I have been blown away by the response to the pattern! I wanted to take a moment and highlight the pattern tester makes. I am beyond grateful for the time and effort that everyone put into testing this pattern, as it was essential to making this pattern the best that it can be. It’s also important for you to be able to see the pants on a variety of bodies and see what kind/if any modifications were made to achieve the desired fit.

Here is a look at everyone’s makes and sizes:

Michele: Waist – 40″ Hip: 54″ | Size made: M | @handmadelife.knit.sew

Michele selected her size based on her hip measurement. Due to the difference at the waist, she put in additional back darts to help bring in the waist. Her pants are made from heavy-weight linen (7oz). Michele noted how confident she felt while wearing them!


Alexis: Waist – 30″ Hip – 42″ | Size made: F | @helloalexisbailey

Alexis chose her size based on her waist measurement. She made her pair out of a light-weight corduroy (which does require a bit of preplanning before cutting). She eliminated the belt loops and back pockets.


Alyx: Waist – 26” Hip – 35” | Size made: A | @enderallsews

Alyx chose to size down and make Size A based on the finished garment measurements. She used a denim cotton twill to make her trousers. She eliminated the back pockets and cuffs.


Tracy: Waist – 59.5” Hip – 59.5” | Size made: P | @cotton_and_seed_handmade

Tracy made a toile out of a bedsheet to test the fit. She found that the pants were very comfortable, but the pocket openings were too small. I was able to address this issue for the final pattern.


Cindy: Waist – 27″ Hip – 37″ | Size made: D | @the_sew_sew

Cindy’s waist was a size C and hips were a size E so she made size D. She was able to modify the waist easily and the hip ease made it great to size down. She took 1″ in on the waist through back darts and side seams. Cindy made her pair out of 6 oz. denim.


Morgan: Waist – 54″ Hip – 67″ | Size made: Q | @hedgewitchmakes

Morgan chose to make a Size Q based on her hip measurement. Due to the difference between her hip and waist measurements, she made the side seams curve inwards and also made the back darts wider. Her version is made from a heavyweight cotton blend.


Erika: Waist – 25″, Hip – 34″ | Size made: A | @eruthd

Erika made a Size A and chose her size based on her waist measurement. She found that she still had plenty of ease at the hips when using the waist measurement to select a size.


Rebecca: Waist – 29”, Hip – 37” | Size made: E | @rebeccacreechcreates

Rebecca’s measured exactly in Size E. She made her version out of ventana twill and did not make any modifications to this pair.


Andrea: Waist – 35.8″/91 cm, Hip – 41.7″/106 cm | Size made: H | @andreawedley

Andrea’s measurements put her in two sizes – I for the waist and H for the waist. She chose to make a straight size H and due to the elastic back she was able to make that size work well for her. She made her final pair out of a linen-viscose mix.


Kathe: Waist – 36″, Hip – 40″ | Size made G | @tijerashomesewn

Kathe measures across 3 sizes. After discussing the options, she decided to make a pair based on her hip size and make adjustments to the waist. She did eliminate the back darts to accommodate the difference at the waist. Her pair is made from a lightweight denim cotton.


Mandy: Waist – 37”, Hip – 49” | Size made: K | @handmademandy

Mandy’s measurements put her across a couple of sizes. She chose to sew Size K which is closest to her hip size. She made no modifications to Size K and made the pants out of linen.


Jessica: Waist – 27″ Hip – 35″ | Size made: C | @jess.sews.stuff

Jessica’s measurements put her right at a Size C. She added 1″ to the front and back rise and removed 1″ from the front and back pant leg. She considered her seated hip measurement and expected range of motion when choosing a size and looked at the finished measurement chart to compare.


Amanda: Waist – 39.4″/100 cm Hip – 49.7″/126cm | Size made: K | @queen_ambrosia_

Amanda’s measurements put her between a Size K and Size L . After playing around with the traced pattern pieces she decided on a K. She used a drapey eucalyptus/linen/cotton blend.


Lenzy: Waist – 30″ Hip – 40″ | Size made: G | @thepetitepearsews

Lenzy’s waist and hip fell into two different sizes. She selected a size based off of her hip measurement and adjusted the waist by increasing the darts and pleats, and the side seam allowance from the hip to waist. She also shorted the legs to accommodate her height. Her version is made from slub linen.


Jess: Waist – 48″ Hip – 62″ | Size made: P | @jessicarosesews

Jess made a Size P based off of her hip measurement. For her next pair she plans on grading the waist so there is less excess fabric in the back.


Laila: Waist – 42.9″/109cm Hip – 53.4″/137cm | Size made: M | @La.ila.creates

Laila made a Size M based off of her hip measurement. To adjust for the waist difference, she made the back darts each .75″/2cm wider (but kept the length the same) and tapered the center back seam to .75″/2cm at the waist.


Carolyn: Waist – 30” Hip – 34.5” | Size made: B | @Carolynchen403

After making a toile, Carolyn noted some adjustments that she wanted to make. She made leg gusset smaller and made front pleat a little smaller to accommodate for a larger waist measurement my larger waist. She also took in more at center back to work better with her body.


Hopefully seeing all the different sizes is helpful for you when picking a size for your Jones Trousers. You can see that the pattern is pretty forgiving in terms of fit. You may select your size based on your hip or waist measurement or in between. Be sure to refer to the finished garment measurements when selecting a size to be sure you are happy with the amount of ease.

Once again, thank you to all my amazing testers! Going back through all the photos has me feeling so grateful for everyone who is so willing to help making sewing patterns better. If you have any questions about selecting a size please don’t hesitate to reach out to me: emily@goldfinch.limited.

Posted on 12 Comments

Introducing the Jones Trousers

I’m thrilled to introduce the Jones Trousers. These pants have become a staple in my wardrobe since I nailed the design. The pants are designed using zero-waste cutting techniques, leading to an unconventional pattern layout that is fun to sew! Over the past six months, it has been a challenge to tweak the design to include 19 sizes, ranging from 33″(83.8cm) hip to 72″(182.9cm).

I have been searching for my “perfect” pants for a while. I knew what I didn’t like about the ones I already owned and ideas about what my ideal pair should be, but I couldn’t quite seem to find them. A few sewing patterns came close, but there was always a little something missing, something that stopped me from spending my time making them.

My goal when designing these trousers was to create an elevated basic – comfy, everyday pants – that would fill a hole in my wardrobe. I wanted pants that not everyone had. A pair of pants with a little something extra without being over the top. Ease, movement, functionality, and style were key elements that I wished to incorporate. I wanted to feel comfortable bending over, sitting on the floor, going on a walk, or going out to dinner. There were also design elements that I wanted wanted to include, e.g. fitting at the natural waist, with plenty of ease throughout the hips and inverted box pleats to add a bit of drama. Finally, I challenged myself to bring all my ideal details into a zero-waste layout. With these thoughts in mind, I began looking at inspiration in ready-to-wear pants (check out this Pinterest board) and started the design process.

Six months, lots of research and samples later, the Jones Trousers are now a garment you can make. I’m pleased with how these pants have evolved. I can’t believe that I checked all my boxes and I now have pants I can wear effortlessly. I feel good when I wear them, and I can look fancy or casual, funky or professional.

Fabric selection plays a vital role in the final look of the Jones Trousers. A drapey, lightweight fabric (e.g. Tencel Twill – 6oz.) will flow down the waist and around the hips. Because the material has a more fluid drape, the pants will fit closer to the body, and the amount of ease designed into the pants is not as evident. A heavier weight fabric with more structure (e.g. brushed denim – 9oz.) will highlight the shape of the pants more clearly. The ease is more evident because the fabric sits away from your body. A pant made of mid to heavy-weight linen (e.g. 6-7oz) will fall somewhere in the middle.

One of the funnest parts of designing using zero-waste pattern cutting techniques is trying to figure out the little details that can really elevate a garment. For these pants that includes the unique shaped zipper fly, the button loop and eliminates the need to sew a button hole, interior cell phone pocket, and the leg gusset.

My pattern testers did an amazing job of bringing the Jones Trousers to life. They helped bring this pattern to the level that it is at now, pushing me to make it the best possible. I will be sharing their versions over the next few weeks, both on Instagram and the blog.

I’m looking forward to seeing everyones versions of the Jones Trousers. Use the tags #goldfinchjonestrousers #jonestrousers and @goldfinchtextilestudio to share your makes. I love seeing people’s different versions of the pattern. If you have any questions about the pattern please don’t hesitate to reach out to me at emily@goldfinch.limited. Thank you for your support!

Posted on 1 Comment

Simone Overalls: Minimal Waste PDF Sewing Pattern

I’m thrilled to introduce you to the Simone Overalls. They are a versatile and effortless everyday overall that can be worn tied in a variety of ways. The Simone Overalls come in 7 size ranges – up to a 74″ (188cm) hip – along with the option to self-draft based on your own specific measurements. The pattern creates minimal fabric waste and the pattern pieces are drawn directly onto the fabric – no need to print, cut, and tape the main pattern. The only pattern pieces that need to be printed are the bib cutouts. The pattern includes a Self-Drafting Guide that walks you through making the pattern pieces for your specific measurements – no matter what size you are. The Self-Drafting Guide and fit guidelines can be used in conjunction with the given size ranges to make fit adjustments easily.

I must admit that when I started designing the Simone Overalls, I had not worn overalls for probably 25 years. After seeing them pop up more and more, I was intrigued by the concept and wanted to give them a try. I decided to take a stab at designing my own pair with the goal of being zero-waste. I knew I wanted something that was flexible, easy to wear, and worked on a wide range of body types.

While I didn’t reach a fully zero-waste design, I feel that I achieved my other design goals. The Simone Overalls are comfortable and allow for lots of movement. The ability to tie the overalls in numerous ways lends to additional creativity when getting dressed. They work well with a variety of fabric types and weights; from drapey linen to more structured cotton twill or lighter weight denim. In the end, the pattern is minimal waste, with the potential to be zero-waste depending on your size and fabric layout. Any remaining fabric will be a very useable offcut.

The design is based on the wearer’s hip measurement and the waist ties bring everything in at the waist. The ties can be tied in multiple ways, giving the wearer a lot of versatility. The shoulder straps are also adjustable allowing the overalls to be worn looser or closer to the body depending on the desired look. This adjustability allows the Simone Overalls to be worn with various tops underneath and allows the garment flexibility for potential body changes. One tester noted that they would make great maternity wear. I appreciate their ability to loosen if I don’t feel like wearing anything tight around my waist, but I can change the way the overalls are tied to make a new look and feel when I want.

I had an amazing group of testers who gave me excellent feedback on the pattern. It is incredibly helpful to have other sewists make your pattern; not only do they check the fit and double-check for errors, but it also helps to have people who work and think differently than I do review the process and steps. Sometimes things make sense to me, but might not to other people so it is very informative to receive the tester’s feedback. It was wonderful to work with them and I have loved seeing all of their versions.

Here are some of my testers showing off their Simone Overalls. Thank you again testers!! Check them out on Instagram to see more of their amazing work – top row (left to right): @slowsewed, @sarah_seams, @handmademandy, @pockifish – middle row (left to right): @Mogglemakes, @threadandsprout, – bottom row (left to right): @madebyloobles, @tijerashomesewn, @queen_ambrosia_, @jess.sews.stuff

In addition to the PDF pattern, I also started a Youtube channel. As of now, I have a demonstration video that shows all the different ways that the Simone Overalls can be tied at the waist. There are also the first couple of videos up for the Simone Overall sew-along. You can currently find videos on How To Insert the Leg Gusset Parts 1&2. I hope to have the remaining videos up shortly so be sure to check back if you want to follow along.

Simone Overalls Tie Options

I hope you enjoy sewing and wearing the Simone Overalls as much as I have. I’m looking forward to seeing more versions out in the world. Tag @goldfinch.limited and #simoneoveralls on Instagram if you make them or send me a photo – I love to see your makes! Also, if you have any questions about the pattern or design please don’t hesitate to reach out – emily@goldfinch.limited. Enjoy!

Posted on 3 Comments

Xanthea Zero Waste T-Shirt

Liz Hayward from The Craft of Clothes recently released a zero-waste t-shirt pattern – the Xanthea Top. Liz proposed a pattern swap with our latest patterns, as t-shirts and overalls are a perfect combo. I’m not quite done with the Simone Overalls pattern, but I’m looking forward to styling the Xanthea Top with my finished overalls and seeing Liz’s version of both together. It was also perfect timing, as I have been wanting to make some basics for myself and tees were first on my list.

The Xanthea Top is very versatile, as it is designed to be used with knit or woven fabrics and it is drafted up to a 70″ bust. The top has a fun, unique construction, and a slightly boxy fit. The final top hangs on the bias so it has a nice drape. It also has options for short sleeves or long sleeves. Liz provides a printable mockup of the top so you can fully understand the construction before you get started.

Short-sleeved version with neckline for knit fabric
Long Sleeve version with neckline for woven fabric

I decided I wanted to play with and highlight the unique design lines created on the front of the top. It has been a while since I made a handstitched garment so I was excited to jump in again with the Xanthea top. My goal was to use mock flat-felled seams for the body and finish the neckline with a more stretchable stitch. I made a few minor changes to the overall design; including using the woven neckline for the knit version, omitting the sleeves, and taking out a bit at the shoulders.

I made a size 10 based on my body measurements and I’m very happy with the fit. I also made a version out of woven fabric in the same size and while it does fit, I think I may size up for future versions made with woven fabric as it does pull a bit in the shoulder area when I cross my arms. I’m not sure if this is because of my fabric choice or the size, but I will experiment with that further.

The original pattern does not have shoulder seams, but I decided to slightly modify my top by taking out 1.5″ | 3.8cm from the top of the shoulders. To do this, I constructed the top as directed until I got to the step to cut out the neckline. I traced my desired neckline on the fabric and then I measured down 1.5″ | 3.8cm at the side fold (there is no side seam). I made a diagonal cut from this point up to the neckline. I was left with a triangle cutout that I used to create a facing around the armholes.

I also chose to use the woven neckline for the top because I wanted a lower neckline. When I cut out the pattern, I cut an additional 1″ |2.5cm strip the same length as the required square. I used this strip as the binding around the neckline. I did have a little bit of this strip remaining and I used this to help finish the facing at the armholes. I used the neckline cutout as a back facing and I really like the detail on the back of the shirt.

The last thing that I changed was to eliminate the sleeves for my knit version because the boxy fit creates cute little cap-like sleeves. As I said above, I used the excess that was cut off the shoulders as the facing for the sleeves. Because there are no shoulder seams, the excess triangle that I cut from the shoulders needed to be cut open so that I could stitch it to the arm opening. I matched the center of this elongated polygon with the top shoulder seam, right sides together, and stitched it to the arm opening. I finished the facing by turning it to the wrong side and stitching around the perimeter of the armhole and along the diagonal edges of the shoulder cutout. I wish I had gotten better pictures of this process because it is a bit hard to describe, but the video I recorded while doing it was blurry – oh well. I am really pleased with how this detail turned out and how it compliments the original design lines of the top.

As the weather cools, I’m looking forward to making more versions of the Xanthea Top. I have plans for a woven version with slightly puffy sleeves and I also like Liz’s idea of making it a sweatshirt with a hood. This is definitely a pattern that I will be coming back to often. Please let me know if you have any questions about my mods.

Posted on Leave a comment

Lawrence Top Dress Hack

I have been thinking about making a dress version of the Lawrence Top for a while. I began with the idea of lengthening the tunic version and adding a wide ruffle at the bottom. I did the math, adjusted the pattern pieces, and selected fabric, but something was holding me back. The more I thought about my idea, the more I realized I couldn’t see myself wearing the final version. I loved the idea, but the design didn’t fit my wardrobe or lifestyle. I love the look of ruffles and frills, but I don’t necessarily like wearing them. I didn’t want to make something that I would only wear once or twice.

I put the idea on hold for a bit while I tried to decide what direction to go with it. When I found a piece of navy double gauze in my stash, my motivation for making a dress was renewed. I decided to blend the two views of the Lawrence Top and make an oversized shirt dress with a tie.

As I looked at the original pattern, I tried to think about what aspects of each view I wanted to use in the hacked dress. I wanted to use the shape and inseam pockets of the tunic version, but with shorter sleeves that could be rolled up if I wanted a different look. I also knew I wanted to incorporate the split hem from View B, but I wanted the hemline to be even.

Once I started laying out all the pieces on my fabric, I was able to work on more specific details of the design. My piece of fabric was 59″|150cm wide x 90″|229cm long. I began by switching the orientation of the original pattern pieces (to be oriented with the grain instead of cross-grain) so I could get more length. Based on the length of fabric I was able to get a dress that hits above the knee.

Adjusted pattern piece layout

I also wanted a little more volume to the dress, so I made the front and back panels wider. I didn’t change the width of the yoke and I was able to gather the panels more. I did make the yoke taller – making it 9”|23cm instead of 6”|15cm – to go with the proportions of the more oversized look.

The buttons are one of my favorite parts of the dress. I found these yellow, vintage buttons last summer and when I got them I had no project in mind. I just loved how all the different shades of yellow and different shapes went together. Once I started sewing the navy gauze, I remembered that I had the yellow buttons and I knew they would be the perfect fit for the dress. I love how they pop on the navy fabric and add a bit of whimsy to the dress.

While I was making the dress, I thought about various ways that it could be worn. I wanted to make sure that it worked in a variety of situations and seasons. The dress definitely feels fancier when it is tied at the waist, but it can also have a casual feel. I like how it feels flexible in its style. The dress layers well over leggings and it can be worn in the cooler months. And I discovered (after we took these pictures, of course) that it layers well over wide-leg culottes. Worn without the tie, it creates a very artist smock vibe which I really like. Wearing it untied, without pants, is also an option. I think it will be great to throw over my swimsuit when we head to the beach.

If you have made the Lawrence Top and/or tried hacking the pattern I would love to hear about it. Leave a comment or post and tag me on Instagram @goldfinch.limited #zwlawrencetop. I love seeing everyone’s makes!

Posted on Leave a comment

Scrap Happy

Over the past couple of years I have collected a vast amount of scrap fabric; both from my own personal sewing and from small, sustainable clothing brands. I have big dreams for many of these bits, but I haven’t been putting the attention I need into using them. They are taking up space in our little house and I want to start actively using them, not just dreaming about the possibilities. When I originally began collecting these fabric scraps and cutoffs, my goal was to make various products to sell in my shop and at craft markets. Due to many factors, I have not been participating in markets and decided to shift the focus of my work. So now I have a ton of scraps and a long list of personal projects I want to work on.

At first, I had hoped to come up with some new and interesting ideas to use the scraps, but through my research, I have found tutorial after tutorial on how to make scrunchies and zipper pouches; nothing too new or exciting. I decided that I would like to approach my scrap projects from a different angle; not a tutorial, but more inspiration to get your scraps out and make something useful. My goal is to work on a scrap project at least once a month and document it. I’m excited about putting some direct focus into using these scraps as there some items I’m really looking forward to making.

My first project is a water bottle carrier. While taking a walk one evening, my partner mentioned that he had seen a water bottle carrier at the co-op made from parachute fabric. I instantly thought that I should make one for our walks. I am notorious for forgetting water when we head out on a walk. Sometimes we take a wagon to carry extra stuff, but many times we head out on a quick walk to the lake and we don’t want to bring the wagon along. And more often than not, I end up carrying my 3-year-old home on my shoulders so having to carry a water bottle also is something I just never want to do.

I received some upcycled cotton canvas from Summer at Tiger Owl and I have been hoarding it waiting for the right project. This water bottle carrier seemed like the perfect place to use some of it because it’s sturdy and I love the little speckles of color throughout the neutral canvas. I decided to make a simple, lined box bottom bag to the dimensions of the water bottle we use most. I added a pocket on the exterior just in case I don’t have pockets in my clothes that day and an adjustable strap.

I’m very pleased with the end product. It is so easy to throw this carrier over my shoulder and head outside. While I haven’t used it a ton yet, it seems like it will be easier for me to remember to bring along and much easier to adventure when I have both hands at the ready.

I’m looking forward to working my way through my scrap project list. This water bottle carrier was a nice challenge and distraction from the pattern that I am currently working on. I hope that making some dedicated time for personal, fun projects will give me some time to clear my brain and a chance to be extra creative. Do you have any scrap projects you are working on or dreaming about? I would love to hear about them!

Posted on Leave a comment

Hack: Patchy Cropped Lawrence Top

When my friend Jamie (@reclaimedcraft) asked if I was interested in some fabric cutoffs from her time working at Elizabeth Suzann, I jumped at the chance. I have a never-ending supply of fabric scraps, but the opportunity to use high-quality fabric is hard for me to turn down. I have a couple of idea swimming through my head of what I will be doing with these scraps, but my first desire was to create a patchy, cropped Lawrence Top.

Upon opening the boxes of scraps, I was immediately drawn to the olive linen. I had visions of a monochromatic top with a few pops of contrast. The navy linen was the perfect pairing with the olive. I began by sorting and ironing out the scraps. The next step was to straighten all the edges. In the past, I have tried to work the various curves and diagonal cuts into the finished whole cloth, but for this project, I wanted to work with only the straight lines. I now have a pile of smaller cutoffs, but I have a few ideas running through my head about what to do with those.

Once the fabric had been prepped, the fun part could begin. Based on the amount of scraps I had, I decided to make some changes to a few elements of the design. First, I used a large inverted box pleat on the back panel instead of smaller pleats or gathers. When working with all the seams of the patchwork, it can sometimes be a little tricky to get the fabric to drape well so I wanted to eliminate a bunch of pleats/gathers that might interfere with how the fabric hangs. I also decided to anchor the pleat 1″ down from the yoke to create a more dramatic effect.

For the front panels, I decided to make them the same width as the yoke and eliminate the pleats/gather all together. There is still plenty of ease for me, but if I had been making the tunic version I probably would have stuck to the original dimensions. The only other change that I made to the pattern was using snaps instead of buttons. I really like that clean finish of the button band. Once you have an understanding of how the pieces come together, it is easy to make adjustments that work for your body and the fabric you have.

The process of piecing the fabric together is simple but does take some time. Once I got into a rhythm, it went pretty quickly. I find that it is helpful to layout some fabric pieces and have a general idea of how one section might go together. For example, if I know I need to have a finished piece of 12″ X 22″, I will see what pieces I have that fit within those dimensions and see how they layout. I attempt to have a bit of a game plan before I get sewing.

To begin the patchwork, I first sew my fabric pieces together and trim any excess fabric. I then finish the raw edge with a zigzag stitch. Next, press the seam to one side and topstitch the seam in place. I continue on like this, building the piece of fabric to the desired dimensions. Once I have the size I need, I treat it just like a pattern piece and sew everything together.

Working through this process is time-consuming, but also very rewarding. This top was created from waste and it feels good to be able to make something fun and beautiful with these leftovers. By using the Lawrence Top pattern as a guide, I hope to make more patchwork tops – maybe something with more color/pattern mixing.

Thank you again, Jamie, for taking the time to save the scraps, sort them and send them my way. If you have any questions about this process or the pattern please don’t hesitate to email me – emily@goldfinch.limited. If you try this process or any other hacks, I would love to see your final top. Email me photos or post on Instagram using #zwlawrencetop and #goldfinchlimited.

Posted on Leave a comment

Lawrence Top Tester Recap

I wanted to put together a special post to highlight my testers final garments. I would not have been able to complete the Lawrence Top sewing pattern without their wonderful help. I really enjoyed working with these women and seeing their finished garments makes me very happy. Thank you again for all your help!

What is great about the pattern is it’s versatility; not only in how you wear the garment, but also how it can work with different types and sizes of fabric. Seeing all the tester versions next to each other really highlights how flexible this pattern is.


Andrea made View B in a lightweight viscose from her stash. Due to the size of the fabric, she didn’t make the low/high hemline. She also used a different piece of lightweight fabric for the interior yoke. Both of these mods are great places to change up the pattern if you have less fabric than recommended. If you click through on her post, you can see her pattern pieces all cut and laid out, along with the very minimal waste she has when finished.


Eli made View A in a more structured gingham cotton. I love how she styled the top in a variety of ways; over jeans, layered with a cozy scarf, and open as a jacket/cardigan. I really enjoy wearing oversized button-up shirts over tank tops, so this will definitely be my go to way to wear the tunic this spring.


Sarah made View A in viscose rayon. She used a wide cut of fabric and was able to lay out her pattern pieces with the fabric grain, as apposed to cross-grain that the pattern calls for. The top is wonderfully drapey and looks good open or closed.


Rebecca made View A in a crisp, white linen. Rebecca styles the tunic with and without a turtleneck showing that the top can be worn throughout many seasons. Rebecca has plans to make another tunic, but making it a bit narrower by adjusting the width of the front and back panels. She also mentioned the idea of modding the pattern into a dress and now I’ve been thinking about ways to make one for myself.


Rose made View B out of a beautiful piece of linen. She made size 2 as her bust size fits right on the lower end of the size range. I love how she styled the cropped top with cozy linen pants. I can’t wait to see her tunic version.


Michelle (@zoetemeyer) made View A in a drapey rayon. Due to the size of fabric she had, she rearranged the pattern pieces and ended up making a longer, narrower version of the top, with a low/high split hemline. She also omitted the seam facing details and instead used this leftover fabric to test her buttonholes. It’s nice to see how she took the pattern pieces and moved them all around the fabric she had to make it work.


Elana (@the_solstice_studio) made a View B of the top. She had a lot of wonderful ideas to mod/hack the pattern: “I thought of a number of ways to use excess fabric or mistakes to keep the top zero waste including ruffles, a tied bow at the front, sleeve details, making an even longer top that’s actually a dress (I fantasized about a dress version of option B the entire time I worked on it, cinched at the waist with a ribbon made from excess fabric or a belt), or even longer sleeves for a winter version of option B.”


Thank you again to my testers! I hope seeing these finished tops gives everyone some inspiration and I look forward to seeing many more finished Lawrence Tops. I would love to see not only your finished garment, but also your process – post on Instagram using #zwlawrencetop and #goldfinchlimited.

Posted on Leave a comment

Lawrence Top – Side Seam Facings for View B

During the testing phase for the Lawrence Top a few people suggested that I include photos to show how the side seam facings are sewn. This is a technique that is not used often so there is not a ton of visual reference to be found.

I photographed a step-by-step tutorial to show how the side seams facings are sewn into the top. While this tutorial is specific to View B, the concept can be applied to the single seam facing for View A.

While designing the Lawrence Top, I wanted to find uses for all the fabric cutoffs to make the design zero waste. The neckline cutouts are perfect for seam facings and create a nice finished look. For View B of the top, the split seams required 2 sets of facings. While working through the pattern piece layout I needed to plan accordingly to accommodate for both sets of facings.

Originally, I had planned for two sets of triangles to be the seam facings at the split seam. During my testing, I discovered that my triangles for the second set of seam facings were not mirrored images of themselves like facings created from the neckline cutout. This created a problem if you are using a fabric that has a definite “right” and “wrong” side. So I adjusted and made the facings into rectangles. In the end, it creates an interesting design detail and finishes the seams nicely.

I hope this tutorial is helpful when putting in the side seam facings. Please don’t hesitate to reach out if you have further questions –  emily@goldfinch.limited

Posted on Leave a comment

Introducing the Lawrence Top

I’m very excited to introduce you to the Lawrence Top, a zero waste PDF sewing pattern. The Lawrence Top comes in two different views. View A is a tunic length top with 3/4 length sleeves and inseam pockets. View B is a cropped top with a low/high hem, short sleeves and patch pockets. The top is designed to have an oversized fit and comes in two size ranges.

Size 1 has a finished bust circumference of 58″/147cm and is intended to fit bust of 32″-44″/81cm-112cm.

Size 2 has a finished bust circumference of 70″/178cm and is intended to fit a bust of 46″-56″/117cm-142cm.

The inspiration for the Lawrence Top began with a thrifted ready-to-wear top that I picked up a few years ago. The shirt is a short sleeved, button up tunic with a large overlapping pleat in the back. While the shirt is not necessarily ground breaking in style, it is definitely a staple in my wardrobe. I love how easy it is to wear a variety of ways.

I’ve been dreaming of ways to recreate this top and I knew I wanted to include a yoke and pleats, but I also wanted pockets and some sleeve options. Most of these thoughts stayed in my head for quite awhile. Ideas and thoughts about pleat placement, etc. would come to me at random, but acting on these ideas took some time.

After seeing some examples of zero waste sewing patterns, I finally took the plunge and got to work on my own design. When I started the process, I decided on a fabric size to be the base of the design. I wanted to use a fabric size that was a standard width and length, but I also wanted the design to be flexible enough to work even if the fabric dimensions were off by a few inches/cm.

Much of the design process involved moving and adjusting the puzzle pieces to fit within the fabric dimensions. I began to see the pattern as more of a concept, or a formula, that could be changed and adjusted to meet the sewist needs. Do you want it smaller or bigger? Longer or shorter? Not a problem – some quick adjustments to the fabric dimensions and you can make a garment that suits your needs. Throughout the pattern, I hope to provide the tools necessary to make any needed changes.

The pattern is different than your typical home sewing pattern. The pattern is based on only squares, rectangles and triangles. The cutlines are be drawn directly on the fabric using the provided pattern layout and dimensions. Printing out pattern pieces is not required for this process so there is no paper waste or taping required.

The Lawrence Top is designed to be zero waste, meaning all of the required fabric is used. This is achieved by using the cutoffs to create interesting finishing details. The neckline cutouts become a yoke facing, a hang loop and seam facings. While these details are technically optional, they lend to a nicely finished garment.

Detail of yoke facing and hang loop

While designing the Lawrence Top, I thought about different ways it could be worn throughout the seasons and in various ways in your wardrobe. The tunic can be worn with leggings or jeans, open as a cardigan, or over a turtleneck. The cropped top can be worn with high waisted pants and skirts, over a dress, with a cardigan, or over a turtleneck. There are many possibilities to make each top wearable in a variety of ways.

Over the next few months I have plans to show you a few ways the pattern can be hacked, along with additional ways to style the Lawrence Top. My hope is that this top brings many options and creativity to your closet.