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goldfinchtextilestudio

One of the views for my upcoming pattern has a bia

One of the views for my upcoming pattern has a bias bound sleeve placket. It's not hard to do, but it is a bit fiddly to make sure you don't get any tucks and folds as you sew. This short video shows the general idea of how to do it, but I will have a more in depth video once the pattern comes out.

I'm hoping to be ready for testing at the beginning of the new year. I will most likely put out a testing call through my (neglected) newsletter. Sign up through the link in my bio if you want to know when the testing call goes out.

Wouldn't be cool if there was some kind of magical

Wouldn't be cool if there was some kind of magical cutting table that could be set up without having to rearrange the whole room and basically take up no room to store?!?! Until I have one of those, I guess my living room floor will have to do.

I just cut out a final sample of my upcoming pattern - the Eddie Smock. I'm going to sew this up and clean up my instructions as I go. I also finally finished my grading and figured out some issues that have been weighing on me for weeks. I'm still a ways off from being done, but it feels much closer now! Yay!

Obviously my making has centered around my desire

Obviously my making has centered around my desire to keep myself as warm as possible this winter. This #comforthood by @isainstitches is perfect to keep the winter wind from getting through my hand-knit hats. This was a fun and quick make! I used organic cotton jersey from @wearethefabricstore and some random flannel from my stash for the lining. It's the perfect weight to keep my head and neck warm.

The construction of the balaclava is pretty straight forward, but I did change the way the neck piece is attached to the hood. Instead of having exposed seams or using the burrito method, I attached the lining of the neck piece to the hood first then folded the seam allowance of the main neck piece over the seam...pinned in place and stitched from the front. Easy peasy and a nice clean finish.

All just in time for the November weather!

The #lwmittens from @processofsewing are a fun and

The #lwmittens from @processofsewing are a fun and quick sew. 🧤 With the temps dropping I knew I wanted to make myself a pair right away! I used a pair of cashmere leggings that were moth eaten and no longer fit me. I made a narrow size one. I probably could have taken a bit off the length, but now I know for next time. I also added elastic at the cuff instead of the suggested rolled up cuff because I get cold easily and like my mits snug around my wrists.

I ordered this #merchantandmills quilted gauze fab

I ordered this #merchantandmills quilted gauze fabric the second I saw it. I knew I wanted to make something zero-waste because this is precious stuff!

The fabric is 47" wide which was the perfect amount for a self-drafted cardigan and I have enough fabric leftover for a top. Instead of a simple T shaped cardigan, I opted to angle the shoulders a bit and make the sleeves tapered. I included underarm gussets (the cut offs from the shoulders) to make the transition from the body to the sleeve smoother. I was a bit worried all of my seam finishes (Hong Kong seams) would be too bulky, but in the end I didn't need to worry.

I'm wearing it with a thrifted linen button-up and my bull denim #JonesTrousers. These are a size H (my measurements - 34W/42H). I've been wanting to make more long sleeve button-ups and wearing this has me wanting to drop everything and get started.

I finished this #agnespjs top last week and I've b

I finished this #agnespjs top last week and I've been wearing it nonstop. I've been trying to squeeze in some sewing time for myself because a) I need a few things for the cooler weather and b) things have been crazy around here and I need some time to be creative beyond working on my next pattern.

I made a size 14 in this soft, textured cotton that I've had in my stash for a while.
I haven't put buttons on and I'm not sure that I will. I like the cardigan/jacket feel of it. I haven't been able to knit so this fills the gap in my wardrobe for a light weight cardigan.

I'm wearing it with a self-drafted #zerowaste tank and skirt that I made over the summer.

Here is another amazing version of the Jones Trous

Here is another amazing version of the Jones Trousers. It makes me so happy to know that they have become a staple in @tanglesandstarlight wardrobe.

Repost:
On a mission to find the balance between treating my me-mades as precious things and as the utilitarian pieces I was hoping for. Currently, that looks like wearing them out and about to work and for errands and not waiting for special occasions to pop up.

Today’s outfit was made of two pieces that are the current workhorses in my wardrobe, yet this is the first time I’ve worn them together (won’t be the last though!) This is the @goldfinchtextilestudio #jonestrousers and the @vivianshaochen #nephelineblouse - details for both of these makes are on the grid somewhere - and it felt like the perfect mix of comfy and put together which is right in my wheelhouse these days.

#blackbirdfabrics #sewistsofinstagram #imademyclothes #slowfashion #slowfashionmovement #handmadewardrobe #handmadeclothes #handmadecloset #memadewardrobe #memadeeveryday #smallfatsewing #sewingtall #memade

With fall right around the corner, I wanted to hig

With fall right around the corner, I wanted to highlight some community makes of the Jones Trousers. Check out this amazing version is from @gaseous.gay.

Repost:
I finished these #jonestrousers late last night! I bought this pattern the day it was released, and I’m glad I finally cut into it!

This pattern from @goldfinchtextilestudio is a zero/minimal waste pattern & the details are just so lovely! It’s so so clever & the instructions are so so clear. I had so much fun making these, and I really took them slow.

My hip measurement is a size I, but my waist is a size H. Because of the generous ease & finished measurements, I went with a size H with no adjustments.

I added a bit of bias binding during my zipper fly construction à la the worker trousers I just finished to keep it all clean inside. I think my favorite part of these is the hidden interior cell phone pocket. 😉

Fabric is an 8oz ventana twill from @needlesstudio This top is another #blommatank by @paradisepatterns

The updated Iris Blouse and Dress by @fibrandcloth

The updated Iris Blouse and Dress by @fibrandclothstudio is now available. I had the pleasure of testing the dress version with the added collar (view 4). The Iris Blouse and Dress is a zero/minimal waste pattern where you draft your pattern pieces directly to the fabric. The pattern size range is Chest: 28"-66" and Hip: 30"-68".

I made a size B (my current measurements are 36"/34"/42") out of linen from @fabricsstorecom. My sleeves are shorter than the final pattern ended up being, but I'm really happy with the 3/4 length and it's an easy mod to make. I also used snaps instead of buttons. This pattern has some fun details - check out the back pleat/facing combo and gathered sleeves with button (or snaps in this case) cuffs.

I'm looking forward to it cooling off a bit so I can wear it more!

#FCZWIris #ZWIrisBlouseandDress

I know I shared this make yesterday, but I wanted

I know I shared this make yesterday, but I wanted to include some photos to accompany the reel. I love seeing garments in motion, but I still want to be able to see photos.

This zero-waste tunic was designed to use 1 yard of fabric - 57" wide. I had to add the front pleat because I cut the neckline too wide to begin with. I don't think I would have thought to add this detail so happy accident.

I have lots of thoughts on how to develop this further - different lengths, sleeve options, could it work with knit fabric, etc. but I'm not sure if there is really a need for it pattern wise. Aren't there lots of boxy top patterns available? What are your thoughts?

All done! One yard of open weave linen made into a

All done! One yard of open weave linen made into a zero-waste boxy top - this was a quick and satisfying project. I'm not sure if this fabric is really intended for garments, but it's soft and fluid while still having a bit of structure.

I'm wearing it first with my favorite pair of linen #JonesTrousers and then with a pair of bike shorts. Easy, breezy outfits as we slowly transition into slightly cooler weather. I've got plans to make a few more of these in different fabric and fabric widths to play with the ease.

One of my favorite things about working with linen

One of my favorite things about working with linen and zero-waste patterns...the ability to pull threads to cut the pattern pieces out nice and straight!

This open weave linen from @fabricsstorecom looks like it would be rough to the touch, but it's very soft. I'm using 1 yard to make a self-drafted ZW oversized boxy tunic.

Yesterday I got home from the pool with the kids a

Yesterday I got home from the pool with the kids and had the itch to sew something that wasn't for "work" - something for fun. Lucky for me @helens__closet was in my inbox with a new free pattern and I had the perfect fabric from @slowgoods.studio just waiting for the right project.

I set to work on this #OrchardDress right away and I'm thrilled that today I have a fun, new dress to wear. I made a size 10 and graded out a bit at the hips. I made it as long as my fabric would allow. I used white contrasting bias binding and I had some hardware on hand so I could make my straps adjustable. I'm glad this option was included in the directions as I think it will increase the dress's wearablity as I will be able to layer it in the cooler months. This was a quick and easy sew and this fabric (a 6oz tencel-linen blend) is amazing to wear!

Thank you Helen for the great pattern!

The #EASaturdayShorts by @enderallsews are now ava

The #EASaturdayShorts by @enderallsews are now available! I was excited to have the opportunity to test this pattern and it doesn't disappoint. They are an easy and quick sew with fun details and excellent pockets.

As you can see from the wrinkles, these shorts are already well loved. I made a straight size 14 out of some thrifted mystery denim fabric. (My hips are 42" and waist 34") The only mod I made was to shorten them by 1" - I'm 5'4". These are a great pattern for using up a small remnant or even creating a color blocked version. I definitely see more pairs in my future. Congratulations Alyx!!

The morning light is shining through and showing o

The morning light is shining through and showing off all the little details of this top. One of the most delightful parts of designing zero-waste garments are the unexpected details that emerge through the design process. Many details seem to just grow out of the garment as it comes together. I would like to say that I planned everything ahead of time, but that’s not completely true - things just seem to evolve on their own and I’m just along for the ride.

Right after I finished sewing on the buttons, I pu

Right after I finished sewing on the buttons, I put on this tunic (or is it a smock? Or duster?) and didn’t take it off. I wore it with my tester version of the soon to be released #EASaturdayShorts by @enderallsews. It was a good combo for an eventful day of dealing with children’s emotions (having a 2 teens, a tween and a 4 year old is no joke in the emotions department!), speed sewing an mini nova jumpsuit for the little, baking, face painting, and ending the day with a family picnic at the lake.

I used this tunic to test a few design ideas and I’m pleased with the direction this garment is going. The original dress didn’t have sleeves and I was not super happy with how the arm opening was treated so I wanted to test out how a sleeve would look. I also changed the neckline and while I think this one may have gotten a bit low, I do like the shape. I have a few things I would like to adjust and test in a shirt version in the next couple of days. If all goes well, I’m hoping to start grading the pattern layout soon.

I spent some time this weekend sewing up a zero-wa

I spent some time this weekend sewing up a zero-waste t-shirt concept - sewn entirely on my sewing machine. There are parts that I love and parts that need work. I will wash and wear this version to feel out where adjustments need to be made. It’s a relatively quick sew which is fun after spending so much time working on longer projects.

My finished -slightly modified - #zwshirtdress! I

My finished -slightly modified - #zwshirtdress! I made View A - Size G of @processofsewing newest pattern and I made a few mods - one planned and one unplanned. The pattern layout is oriented on the cross-grain and my fabric was wider than recommended. I decided to just make the body longer and see how I liked it. In the end, I chose to fold up the extra to create a deep hem and I like the contrast it creates with the more sheer body.

My accidental mod is the neckline. I did something wrong when cutting out my neckline and I ended up with a bigger opening. Because of this my collar piece didn’t fit. I attempted to solve the problem by cutting the collar in half with the hope that a shorter stand collar would still work, but because the opening was too big the collar sat weird. I had one square of fabric leftover so I decided to chop off the collar and finish it with continuous bias binding made from the extra square. I’m pleased with the outcome, but when I make the shirt again I plan on double checking before I cut out the neckline!

I went bold with the white fabric and we will see how long it stays white, but it’s light and flowy - perfect for hot, summer days!

I took some time today to start sewing the #zwshir

I took some time today to start sewing the #zwshirtdress from @processofsewing. I love this sheer floral cotton fabric and I can’t wait to wear it this summer! Full photos and size info once I’m finished.

I’ve been busy working behind the scenes on a fe

I’ve been busy working behind the scenes on a few deadlines that are due at the end of the month. I have a bunch of ideas floating around in my head, but no time right now to explore them.

Making little models like this helps to think about how all the pieces will go together and think about where there may be potential issues - like needing some kind of shaping at the shoulders in this example. While these models are helpful, paper doesn’t drape so a toile is necessary.

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