I’m thrilled to introduce my latest zero/minimal waste sewing pattern—the Pierce Shirt. This oversized button-up shirt nods to the classic button-up but features distinct details such as asymmetric pintucks, a deep curved hem, and a horizontal front yoke that set it apart and give the garment a modern feel. The interior seams are finished with run-and-flare seams and clean-finished seams to create a beautifully finished garment.
The pattern design utilizes zero-waste pattern drafting techniques and offers a wide range of sizes (21 to be exact!). The bust/chest measurements range from 30”-64” (76.2-162.6cm) and the hip measurements range from 32”-66” (81.3-167.6cm). While the pattern uses zero-waste drafting concepts, some sizes feature minimal waste to accommodate the extensive size range. Suggestions are included in the pattern for ways to use the minimal cutoffs produced. The pattern consists of a detailed instruction booklet and fully printable pattern layouts – print-at-home and Copyshop/A0 files are included, along with a projector file.
This pattern has been in the making for a long time. My first attempt at this design was over two years ago, and the goal was to design a shirt that could be casually thrown on over a t-shirt or tank when I got cold – something less than a cardigan or a jacket but light and still that provided warmth. The thrifted men’s linen button-ups that I used for this purpose were threadbare at the time, and I needed a replacement. I achieved that goal with my first attempt, but the pattern layout and sewing execution required a lot of development.
There have been many variations since and a lot of evolution on the “purpose” of the shirt, but the central concept of interlocking hem and sleeves has remained the same. As I began tweaking the design and making more samples, I grew to love wearing a button-up shirt on its own. I feel a sense of ease – a casual, put-together comfort – wearing this silhouette. And, yes, the shirt still works great as a light layer to keep warm in the evening.
At the beginning of the pattern’s development, I thought that grading and achieving a wide size range would be relatively simple. Oh, was I wrong. Just when I thought I had everything figured out, something else would come up. In the end, I’m so pleased with the final design. My samples have become closet staples, and I have more versions planned.
One thing that I love about this pattern and the pattern layout is how versatile it is. Different fabrics can create completely different looks—play with fabric weight and drape. For a more casual, everyday look, select cotton shirting or linen. If you want to make a more elevated garment, use a cupro or a silk/linen blend. You can also size down to make a slightly more fitted shirt.
Additionally, I have a few ideas for hacking the pattern that I would like to explore more in the coming months. The pattern layout and concept are pretty straightforward and once you understand how the pattern comes together you can also hack and adjust the pattern to create different pieces.
I want to thank my testing team for helping bring this pattern to life. When I say I couldn’t have done it without them, I mean it!! In the next week or so, I’m planning on sharing all of their excellent makes so you can get a glimpse, too. I know how helpful it is for me to see various versions when planning my projects, and I hope that it will benefit you. I also am planning a few video tutorials for some of the trickier bits of the sewing process. They will be posted to my YouTube channel when they are ready, and I will announce them on IG when they are ready.
Please let me know if you have any questions about anything – emily@goldfinch.limited
Thank you all for your continued support!
