Tag: zero waste sewing

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Introducing the Pierce Shirt

I’m thrilled to introduce my latest zero/minimal waste sewing pattern—the Pierce Shirt. This oversized button-up shirt nods to the classic button-up but features distinct details such as asymmetric pintucks, a deep curved hem, and a horizontal front yoke that set it apart and give the garment a modern feel. The interior seams are finished with run-and-flare seams and clean-finished seams to create a beautifully finished garment.

Pierce Shirt PDF Pattern

The pattern design utilizes zero-waste pattern drafting techniques and offers a wide range of sizes (21 to be exact!). The bust/chest measurements range from 30”-64” (76.2-162.6cm) and the hip measurements range from 32”-66” (81.3-167.6cm). While the pattern uses zero-waste drafting concepts, some sizes feature minimal waste to accommodate the extensive size range. Suggestions are included in the pattern for ways to use the minimal cutoffs produced. The pattern consists of a detailed instruction booklet and fully printable pattern layouts – print-at-home and Copyshop/A0 files are included, along with a projector file.

This pattern has been in the making for a long time. My first attempt at this design was over two years ago, and the goal was to design a shirt that could be casually thrown on over a t-shirt or tank when I got cold – something less than a cardigan or a jacket but light and still that provided warmth. The thrifted men’s linen button-ups that I used for this purpose were threadbare at the time, and I needed a replacement. I achieved that goal with my first attempt, but the pattern layout and sewing execution required a lot of development.

There have been many variations since and a lot of evolution on the “purpose” of the shirt, but the central concept of interlocking hem and sleeves has remained the same. As I began tweaking the design and making more samples, I grew to love wearing a button-up shirt on its own. I feel a sense of ease – a casual, put-together comfort – wearing this silhouette. And, yes, the shirt still works great as a light layer to keep warm in the evening.

At the beginning of the pattern’s development, I thought that grading and achieving a wide size range would be relatively simple. Oh, was I wrong. Just when I thought I had everything figured out, something else would come up. In the end, I’m so pleased with the final design. My samples have become closet staples, and I have more versions planned.

One thing that I love about this pattern and the pattern layout is how versatile it is. Different fabrics can create completely different looks—play with fabric weight and drape. For a more casual, everyday look, select cotton shirting or linen. If you want to make a more elevated garment, use a cupro or a silk/linen blend. You can also size down to make a slightly more fitted shirt.

Additionally, I have a few ideas for hacking the pattern that I would like to explore more in the coming months. The pattern layout and concept are pretty straightforward and once you understand how the pattern comes together you can also hack and adjust the pattern to create different pieces.

Pierce Shirt PDF Pattern

I want to thank my testing team for helping bring this pattern to life. When I say I couldn’t have done it without them, I mean it!! In the next week or so, I’m planning on sharing all of their excellent makes so you can get a glimpse, too. I know how helpful it is for me to see various versions when planning my projects, and I hope that it will benefit you. I also am planning a few video tutorials for some of the trickier bits of the sewing process. They will be posted to my YouTube channel when they are ready, and I will announce them on IG when they are ready.

Please let me know if you have any questions about anything – emily@goldfinch.limited

Thank you all for your continued support!

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Lynn Vest Tester Round-Up

I’d first like to thank everyone for the warm welcome to the Lynn Vest. It feels good to have this pattern out in the world as fall is beginning to settle in. I know I’m looking forward to wearing layers as the weather gets cooler.

Lynn Vest PDF Pattern

With the release of a new pattern I always like to show off the testers versions – not only as an appreciation of the hard work that they put in, but also to give you an idea of how the pattern looks on different people and in a variety of fabrics. It is helpful to be able to see someone wearing a similar size that you are considering making or see the garment in a fabric type that you may want to use. Below you will find each tester’s measurements, the size they made, what fabric was used, and a run down of any modifications that they may have made for the pattern. Everyone’s body measurements are listed in following format: Bust/Chest, Waist, Hips, Height.

As a note, during the testing period, we discovered that there was a bit too much ease at the waist/hips. Some testers had finished their garments at this point, while others were still working on theirs. Because of this, some people went back to bring in the side seam and a few people have plans to update theirs in the future.

Kerry | 36, 28, 40, 5’6” | Size B

Kerry’s Lynn Vest is made from a camel wool blend for the main fabric and a mystery upholstery/decor fabric for the lining. She chose to only use two of the pockets. Kerry has plans to make a version that is car coat or duster length.

Lucas | 39”, 36”, 40”, 6’2” | Size D

Lucas made their Lynn Vest out of light cotton denim (main fabric) and cotton shirting (lining). Lucas added 2” to the length of the vest to accommodate their height. They were in between sizes and choose to size up, but in retrospect they think sizing down would have been a better choice.

Amanda | 118cm, 100cm, 127cm | Size E

Amanda’s Lynn Vest is made from two thrifted pieces of woven fabric. She suspects that the main fabric is a cotton/linen blend and the lining is a poly/cotton blend. Both fabrics have quite a bit of drape. She didn’t make any modifications to the pattern.

Vathsala | 38”, 32”, 42”, 5’7” | Size C

Vathsala made her Lynn Vest from a light-medium weight textured cotton for the main fabric and a light-medium weight cotton lawn for the lining. She used leftover fabric from a previous project so she changed the layout the accommodate the fabric on hand. Because of this her collar is made from the lining fabric instead of the main fabric.

Courtney | 47”, 39”, 45”, 5’6” | Size E

Courtney made their Lynn Vest out of a thick cotton for the main fabric and a lighter weight denim/chambray for the lining. Courtney changed the pattern layout to accommodate the fabric that they had on hand. They drew the pattern pieces out on paper first so they would be able find places the pattern pieces would fit within the scrap fabric.

Fred | 107cm, 107cm, 112cm, 168cm | Size D

Fred’s Lynn Vest is made from cotton canvas for the main fabric (an old curtain!) and the lining is cotton poplin. Fred ended up bringing in the side seams by 1” after he was finished with the vest (this change has since been made to the pattern).

Anna | 42”, 32”, 42” | Size D

Anna used a mix of scraps to make her Lynn Vest. These scraps included a mix of heavy weight denim, wide whale corduroy, and hand woven cotton. Anna excluded in the interior pockets on her vest. Anna also took in side seams by an additional 1/2” per side, as she finished before the final pattern updates were made.

Amelia | 84cm, 70cm, 100cm | Size C

Amelia’s Lynn Vest is made from linen and a medium weight, upcycled cotton floral curtain. Due to the weight of her fabrics, she was unable to topstitch the vest by hand.

Jo | 46”, 48”, 58” | Size E and F

Jo made two Lynn Vest’s during the testing period. For the Size E version, she used linen and waxed cotton. Jo added 1/2” to the side panels and then tapered them so 1” was removed from the top of the side panel and 2” was added to the bottom. This resulted in a narrower waist and a wider hip. For the Size F version, she used linen and striped homespun cotton. She removed 1.125” from each side panel (this was prior to 1/2” being removed from each side panel for the final pattern).

Samy | 33”, 26”, 41”, 5’2” | Size C

Samy used medium weight canvas and a light cotton blend to make her Lynn Vest. She adjusted the size of some of the pockets. Samy also used a 5/8″ seam allowance at the side seam to bring the vest in a bit. She had cut the side panel pattern pieces to the original width and by increasing the seam allowance, she was able to bring the side panels in to the updated width. Increasing the side panel seam allowance is an easy way to adjust the fit of the vest.

Cayden | 36”, 27”, 36”, 5’ 9” | Size B

Cayden made her Lynn Vest from an upcycled tablecloth and thrifted heavy weight cotton gingham. Cayden combined the side panels so there was only one side panel per side. She also left off the collar and added ties to close the front. She also adjusted the size and quantity of the pockets.

Jacqui | 34”, 30”, 38”, 5’7” | Size B

Jacqui used linen for the main fabric and cotton for the lining of her Lynn Vest. She adjusted the pattern layout to accommodate her fabric width. She also used one of the pockets as a liner to a create sturdier pocket.

Mallory | 37″, 29″, 39″ | Size B

Mallory opted to quilt her Lynn Vest. She used a variety of fabrics to create the main fabric; including linen, cotton, sandwashed cotton crepe, viscose linen noil and hemp. For the lining, she uses a thrifted cotton sheet. She used an old flannel sheet for the batting. When topstitching the vest, she had some difficulty due to all the layers, but she used some needle nose pliers to help pull the need through.

Mandy | 44”, 37”, 49”, 5’9” | Size D

Mandy made her Lynn Vest from 12 oz. denim (main) and light ticking (lining). She extended her collar to the hem since she had extra fabric. Mandy also used topstitching details along the pocket edges.

Rose | 49”, 45”, 54”, 5’6” | Size F

Rose made this (hand-sewn!) Lynn Vest for her partner, Christine. Rose used African waxed cotton and boiled wool. She tapered the side panels by increasing the seam allowance at the underarms. She also adjusted the width and orientation of a few of the pockets.

Rebecca | 38”, 29”, 40”, 5’6” | Size C

Rebecca’s Lynn Vest is made from Nevada linen for the main fabric and cotton canvas for the lining. She adjusted the pattern layout to work with the width her fabric. She needed to cut the collar and a few pockets from a separate piece of fabric.

Allison | 48”, 41”, 51” | Size F

Allison made her Lynn Vest from canvas and a cotton sheet. Allison finished her vest before the width of the side panels were adjusted. She had a great idea to add an inverted box pleat at the side panel to bring in waist and create a little flare at the hips. This fit adjustment worked really well for her curves. Adding the pleat at the underarm is another easy way to adjust the fit and it adds a nice visual detail.

If you have any questions about size and fit while planning your Lynn Vest, don’t hesitate to reach out. I would be happy to help you figure out any potential fitting issues. And, thank you again to all the testers! I’m so appreciative of all the support during the pattern making process.

Happy making!

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Eddie Smock Hack #1: How to make View 1 with a V-neck, short sleeves, and elastic back

One thing I love about the Eddie Smock is that once you understand how all the pieces come together, you can adjust the layout and design to suit not only your available fabric but also your preferences. For this hack, I used View 1 (the long-sleeved, dress version) as the base and I modified the neckline from a scooped neck to a v-neck, adjusted the layout to shorten the sleeves, and replaced the side ties with an elastic back. I also shortened the dress to work better for my height (5’4″). The steps below will walk you through the process of making these modifications to your Eddie Smock. You will need the original Eddie Smock pattern to complete this hack, along with a piece of elastic that is about half to two-thirds the length of your waist.

Eddie Smock PDF Sewing Pattern

For this hack, I used 3/4″ elastic to gather the back. I chose this width because that’s what I had on hand and I didn’t want to use a wide elastic. You can choose to use whatever width suits you. The placement of the elastic casing can also be adjusted. I was able to make the whole dress first (with the exception of finishing the hem) and then decide exactly where I wanted the elastic to go. Once the dress was finished, I was able to pin the elastic over different portions of the back panel to decide where I wanted my elastic gathering to be.

Process

After selecting my size (Size B), I began the process of making my desired changes by shortening the front/back and side panels and swapping out the long sleeves from View 1 with the short sleeves from View 3. I used Adobe Illustrator to do this, but you could draw the layout to scale on a sheet of paper or use Inkscape (a free vector drawing program). I first shortened the front and back panels to 42″ (taking 4″(10.2cm) from the length). Then, I adjusted the side panel length and hem width based on the instructions in the instruction booklet. If you don’t need to make any length adjustments, you can skip to swapping out your sleeves.

To shorten the sleeves, I simply used the sleeve measurements from View 3 instead of the measurements from View 1. This left me with a sizable gap in the pattern layout. I used this area to my advantage and placed the pocket piece under the sleeves. Due to the width of the sleeve, the pockets didn’t need to be pieced together as in the original layout. I decided to keep the original length of the pockets, but this length could be adjusted if you wanted to. Also, because I used the short sleeve option, the cuff pattern piece was eliminated.

For the final adjustment to the layout, I eliminated the side tie pattern piece and made the remaining portion of the layout the continuous bias binding. Note: A long, skinny piece of fabric will need to be used for the elastic casing. This could be a scrap piece of fabric or it could be incorporated into the layout. I didn’t add this piece to my pattern layout because I used a scrap piece leftover from squaring off the fabric used to make the dress.

Once the pattern layout is finalized, you can make the necessary adjustments to the neckline template. After printing and cutting out the template for the front neckline, I took a piece of paper and placed the template in the top, right-hand corner. Then, I traced the template leaving me with a starting guide for adjusting the neckline. Next, you will want to determine how much you want to lower the neckline — 1/2″(1.3cm)-2″(5cm) depending on your preference. I chose to lower mine by 1.25″(3.2cm). Mark this point along the right-hand edge of your paper (the fold line edge of the template). Now, adjust the width of the neckline slightly — 1/2″(1.3cm)-1″(2.5cm). I widened mine by 1/2″(1.3cm). Again, mark this point.

After your height and width adjustments are made, you can change the neckline from a scooped neck to a v-neck. Begin by marking the edge of the button placket, 1.25″(3.2cm) over from the center of the neckline, and transfer over your new low point of the neckline to this edge. You don’t want to include the width of the button placket when re-drawing your neckline. To create the v-neck, you will connect this point to the new width point using a gentle curve. You can use a curved ruler to do this or if you don’t have a curved ruler, you can print one. Don’t just draw a straight line connecting the two points, as it will not look quite right on your body once sewn up.

Next, you will fold the paper on the button placket edge (at the 1.25″(3.2cm) point) and then fold it in again by 1/4″(0.6cm). This mimics how the button placket is created. Once folded, flip the paper over and trace the v-neckline. You will do this for both portions of the button placket (as shown below).

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Finally, once the front neckline adjustments have been made, you will need to make the same width adjustment to the back neckline.

Sewing Steps

Now that all the pattern adjustments have been made, you can begin sewing your modified Eddie Smock. When sewing your garment you will follow the written instructions with a few minor changes to the process as follows below. I’ve noted when a step is skipped and when changes have been made to a particular step. If nothing is noted about a step, then proceed as written in the original directions.

To begin, follow the cutting steps as directed using your updated layout and use the new neckline template to trace your neckline to the front and back panels.

Skip Step 3

Step 4: If your pocket pattern piece was adjusted to eliminate the need to piece your pocket together, skip Step 4b.

Step 5: The image below shows how the new neckline and button placket will be pressed in place.

Step 6a: When making the neckline facing using the front neckline cutout, your piece will look different due to the v-neck adjustment. Instead of matching the wrong sides together, match the right sides together so that the box pleat will be on the wrong side instead of the right side.

Step 6b: When pressing the edge toward the wrong side, make sure the tip of the V is folded in to conceal any raw edges.

Step 6c: To determine how long to make the back pleat, measure down the length of the new neckline along the center of the back panel.

Step 6f: You may choose to adjust where the hang loop is positioned. In this case, I decided to place the hang loop at the neckline edge as shown below.

Step 8a-c: I chose to sew the panels together first and then finish them together. Since the side ties are not being used, you do not need to add the openings as directed in Step 8b.

Step 8d: Press the seam allowance toward the side seam. At this point, ONLY topstitch the seam allowances on the back panel. The front seam allowances will be topstitched at a later step.

Skip Step 10

Step 12: Follow the instructions for View 3 – the short-sleeve version.

Step 15: When finishing the neckline, I used the same instructions as given for the original neckline, but because of the angle of the neckline I made some adjustments at the button placket edge. The following is what worked for me, but it is not perfect. When pinning in place, I hung the bias binding over the edge slightly. Once sewn and pressed to the wrong side, the edge of the bias binding was very close to the edge of the button placket and I was able to continue as directed.

It may have been better to insert the bias binding using the traditional method so that you can align the angled edge with the edge of the button placket better than how I have done it. Play around with it a bit and see what works for you.

Step 16: Because the front panel seam allowances have not been topstitched yet, you will finish the hem after the elastic casing has been inserted.

Skip Step 18

How to add the elastic casing

The final step is to add the elastic casing. To begin, you will need to determine where you would like to insert the elastic casing. I chose to place mine at the same point where the side ties would have been inserted; starting and ending at the front panel/side panel side seam. By starting and ending at the seam, the seam allowance can be folded over the end of the casing and topstitched down to conceal the ends.

Once the placement has been determined, you will measure how long your casing needs to be by measuring from one endpoint to the other. For mine, the length was 36″(91.4cm). Next, determine the width of the casing. Take the width of your elastic and add 1″(2.5cm). My elastic was 3/4″(1.9cm) wide so I cut my casing 1.75″(4.4cm) wide by 36″(91.4cm) long. Then, press each long raw edge toward the wrong side, by 3/8″(1 cm).

To attach the casing, begin by marking a straight guideline from one endpoint to the other. To do so, I first marked the point where each side tie opening would have been, 16.5″(41.9 cm) down from the shoulder edge as shown in the instructions. Then, to find the point at the center back, I measured from the first points I marked (16.5″(41.9 cm) down from the shoulder) down to the hemline. I used this distance to measure up from the hem at the center back. Then I was able to connect all the points to have a straight guideline. With the guideline established, I pinned the casing in place and topstitched along both the top and bottom edge of the casing, leaving both ends open.

Now that the casing has been inserted, you will need to determine the length of the elastic. I didn’t want mine to be too tight, so I just measured on my waist, at about the point where the side ties would be inserted, from side to side. I marked the elastic at this point but didn’t cut it yet. Then, using a safety pin, I inserted the elastic into the casing. Once the elastic was in the casing, I pinned each end and tried it on. At this point, I decided to tighten it up just a bit. You will be able to play with it to determine just how gathered you want the back to be.

Once I was happy with the length, I cut the elastic, making sure it was still pinned in place. Then, I folded the seam allowance over the ends and topstitched it in place. This secured the ends of the elastic. Finally, I didn’t want my elastic to twist in the casing, so I also stitched it down at a couple of points on the back.

Lastly, I finished the hem as directed and was done!

If you have any questions about these modifications, please don’t hesitate to reach out to me via email – emily@goldfinch.limited. I would love to see any Eddie Smocks that you make – please share using the tags #EddieSmock and #GoldfinchEddieSmock – make sure to also tag @goldfinchtextilestudio.

Happy making!

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Introducing the Eddie Smock

I’m thrilled to introduce you to my latest zero/minimal waste PDF sewing pattern – the Eddie Smock. The Eddie Smock is a garment that can be worn in many ways; from a fashionable, everyday piece to a functional, utility garment. It is an effortless garment staple with a loose-fitting, A-line silhouette that can be worn fully buttoned or easily layered over other garments to complete an outfit. The Eddie Smock is designed using zero-waste pattern-cutting techniques and features modular pattern pieces that come together to create a whole. The pattern is drafted directly to the fabric using the provided pattern layouts as a guide.

Eddie Smock PDF Sewing Pattern

The Eddie Smock was inspired by the classic artist smock. It is a practical garment, that is comfortable, flexible, and functional. The smock is a canvas for the expression of the individual sewist that provides freedom of movement and everyday practicality. You may choose to wear your smock as a fashionable dress or use the tunic as a gardening smock – there is a multitude of ways to wear the Eddie Smock.

The Eddie Smock comes in 3 views – dress, tunic, and blouse. There are 10 sizes ranging from bust/chest: 30”-70” (76.2-178cm) and hips: 32”-72” (81.3-183cm). The pattern is drafted for both B-Cup and D-Cup for all sizes. The pattern is designed to be sewn with light to mid-weight woven fabrics with no stretch; such as linen, cotton (poplin, lawn, gauze, chambray), silk noil, rayon or viscose, Tencel, mid-weight twill or light denim or canvas, etc (3-7oz/square yard | 102-238 GSM).

All views of the Eddie Smock feature slightly dropped shoulders, a button front, an inverted back pleat detail, and a bias-bound shirttail hem. View 1 is dress length with long, gathered sleeves with a button cuff, side tie detail to cinch at the waist or tie in the back, and patch pockets at the sides. View 2 is tunic length with ¾ length, gathered sleeve with a visible bias-bound edge, side tie detail to cinch at the waist or tie in the back, and patch pockets at the sides. View 3 is a blouse with short sleeves.

At some points throughout the design and development of this pattern, it felt as if the pattern had a mind of its own. The design began as a dress, but early in the development phase, I made a sample to test out a different neckline using of a piece of fabric that was shorter than the required length and so became View 2. Upon discovering that I liked the tunic length, I set out to add a blouse version. Due to the zero-waste pattern layout, each view has a different sleeve treatment. The components of each view/layout can be mixed and matched with a bit of creative planning. I plan on digging deeper into these potential adjustments in the near future.

Another design element that evolved over the course of the design process was the B-Cup and D-Cup size ranges. I knew I wanted to offer these options, but with a zero-waste layout, I wasn’t sure of the best way to go about it. I spent a lot of time researching and thinking about the different options. I asked myself “Could darts be added? How?” and “Was the idea even necessary with the amount of bust/chest ease?” In the end, I determined that I could keep the shoulder the same dimension for the B-Cup and D-Cup and change the bust ease to allow for a curvier fit of the D-Cup range. To do so, I needed to change the angle of the side panel. All of this is to say that, this project involved a lot more math than I expected. It was a fun challenge, but I’m so happy to be past that point.

I would like to thank my pattern testers for all their help in bringing the Eddie Smock pattern to the next level. Every time I go through the testing phase of pattern development, I’m blown away by the testers’ willingness to commit their time and energy to help me work out any issues the pattern may have. I’m looking forward to sharing their versions over the next few weeks, both on Instagram and the blog.

I have filmed a sew-along that I am in the process of editing. I will let you know once it’s up on my YouTube channel. I’m also looking forward to exploring a few hacks/modifications that I have been thinking about.

Eddie Smock PDF Sewing Pattern

I’m looking forward to seeing everyone’s versions of the Eddie Smock. Use the tags #GoldfinchEddieSmock #EddieSmock and @goldfinchtextilestudio to share your makes. I love seeing people’s different versions of the pattern. If you have any questions about the pattern please don’t hesitate to reach out to me at emily@goldfinch.limited. Thank you for your support!

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Zero Waste Gifts – Modified Sam Apron

I try to make some kind of Christmas gift for my family every year. Some years the gifts are more elaborate than others. Sometimes I have an idea well before Christmas, other years it feels more last minute. I’m sure if you have made handmade gifts you know this feeling well. And even though the official gift-giving season is over, for now, I thought I would talk a bit about the gifts that I made this year because really any time of year can be a time to give a handmade gift to a family member, a friend, or even yourself. Luckily, this year I managed to not only have an idea, but I had “plenty” of time to get it done. I say “plenty” because I did have lots of time to get the gifts done, but I still felt a bit of pressure – such is the nature of working in Santa’s workshop.

When Helen’s Closet released their pattern for the Sam Apron (free when you signup for their newsletter), I was hooked. For years I’ve been telling myself that I need to make myself a full apron – I had been sporadically wearing a half waist apron – and this was the perfect opportunity to finally get it done. I thought it would make the perfect gift for my family members as many are great home chefs and/or work in workshops where an apron would be readily used.

After reviewing the fabric requirements, I ordered some heavyweight linen hoping that I would be able to adjust the pattern to work with the width and yardage that I purchased. Since I was making aprons for a variety of people – different heights and sizes – I knew I needed to figure out a way that I could adjust the pattern so I won’t have a bunch of random pieces of leftover fabric. When I ordered the fabric I did not have a full plan yet, I was just hoping that I would be able to figure something out easily.

The pattern provides you with very helpful guidance on selecting a size. Because I was making these for people who were not standing in front of me, I needed to make some guesses. When selecting the sizes, I also wanted to take into account my fabric length and width so I would be able to maximize my fabric. Fortunately, I was able to divide the sizes of 6 individuals into 3 apron widths, i.e. 2 aprons at 31″ wide, 2 aprons at 33″ wise and 2 at 36″ wide. For the length, I decided to make them all the same by dividing the fabric width of 57″ in half and cutting the aprons out on the cross-grain. This allowed me to get 2 aprons for each width that I needed. This also meant that the aprons ended up being a bit short.

To solve this problem, I dug into my linen scrap collection with the idea of adding scrappy patchwork at the bottom of the aprons to make up for the missing length. Past me must have been planning for this because I found some already pieced-together linen that happened to be just about the sizes I needed. Needless to say, I was very excited about this find. It ended up being a huge time saver! I just sewed these patchwork strips at the bottom of the aprons and made the lengths different based on everyone’s height. This solved my length issue perfectly.

The next decision was to decide how to use the bib cutouts. I knew that I wanted to incorporate them into the apron somehow. For a bit, I thought of using them to lengthen the aprons, but that wasn’t going to work. Then I started playing around with various pocket ideas. The original pattern comes with ample pockets and I wanted to make sure the ones I made did too. In the end, I made a patch pocket out of the cutouts. I sewed the cutouts right-sides together, leaving a small opening so I could turn them right-side out. Once turned out and pressed, I had a nice lined patch pocket made for the apron offcuts. I sewed down the top edge and added a little indigo tag to each pocket.

I used more scrap linen for the top pocket and the towel loop – which by the way is an amazing addition to any apron! I also made it easier on myself and used twill tape for both the cutout finishing edge and the straps. I would have been able to piece enough scrap linen together to make the straps, but that would have increased my time spent by a lot.

In the end, I am very pleased with the outcome and so are the recipients. I even remember to wear mine while cooking – mostly! I would highly recommend the Sam Apron pattern – for yourself or as a gift. I enjoyed the process of taking a pattern and reimagining it as a zero-waste pattern. This one was simple and easy to do and I look forward to challenging myself more this year with this kind of work. I hope to share more of this in the coming months. If you have done the same, I would love to hear about it!

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Xanthea Zero Waste T-Shirt

Liz Hayward from The Craft of Clothes recently released a zero-waste t-shirt pattern – the Xanthea Top. Liz proposed a pattern swap with our latest patterns, as t-shirts and overalls are a perfect combo. I’m not quite done with the Simone Overalls pattern, but I’m looking forward to styling the Xanthea Top with my finished overalls and seeing Liz’s version of both together. It was also perfect timing, as I have been wanting to make some basics for myself and tees were first on my list.

The Xanthea Top is very versatile, as it is designed to be used with knit or woven fabrics and it is drafted up to a 70″ bust. The top has a fun, unique construction, and a slightly boxy fit. The final top hangs on the bias so it has a nice drape. It also has options for short sleeves or long sleeves. Liz provides a printable mockup of the top so you can fully understand the construction before you get started.

Short-sleeved version with neckline for knit fabric
Long Sleeve version with neckline for woven fabric

I decided I wanted to play with and highlight the unique design lines created on the front of the top. It has been a while since I made a handstitched garment so I was excited to jump in again with the Xanthea top. My goal was to use mock flat-felled seams for the body and finish the neckline with a more stretchable stitch. I made a few minor changes to the overall design; including using the woven neckline for the knit version, omitting the sleeves, and taking out a bit at the shoulders.

I made a size 10 based on my body measurements and I’m very happy with the fit. I also made a version out of woven fabric in the same size and while it does fit, I think I may size up for future versions made with woven fabric as it does pull a bit in the shoulder area when I cross my arms. I’m not sure if this is because of my fabric choice or the size, but I will experiment with that further.

The original pattern does not have shoulder seams, but I decided to slightly modify my top by taking out 1.5″ | 3.8cm from the top of the shoulders. To do this, I constructed the top as directed until I got to the step to cut out the neckline. I traced my desired neckline on the fabric and then I measured down 1.5″ | 3.8cm at the side fold (there is no side seam). I made a diagonal cut from this point up to the neckline. I was left with a triangle cutout that I used to create a facing around the armholes.

Shoulder cutout removed and used as facing for armholes

I also chose to use the woven neckline for the top because I wanted a lower neckline. When I cut out the pattern, I cut an additional 1″ |2.5cm strip the same length as the required square. I used this strip as the binding around the neckline. I did have a little bit of this strip remaining and I used this to help finish the facing at the armholes. I used the neckline cutout as a back facing and I really like the detail on the back of the shirt.

The last thing that I changed was to eliminate the sleeves for my knit version because the boxy fit creates cute little cap-like sleeves. As I said above, I used the excess that was cut off the shoulders as the facing for the sleeves. Because there are no shoulder seams, the excess triangle that I cut from the shoulders needed to be cut open so that I could stitch it to the arm opening. I matched the center of this elongated polygon with the top shoulder seam, right sides together, and stitched it to the arm opening. I finished the facing by turning it to the wrong side and stitching around the perimeter of the armhole and along the diagonal edges of the shoulder cutout. I wish I had gotten better pictures of this process because it is a bit hard to describe, but the video I recorded while doing it was blurry – oh well. I am really pleased with how this detail turned out and how it compliments the original design lines of the top.

As the weather cools, I’m looking forward to making more versions of the Xanthea Top. I have plans for a woven version with slightly puffy sleeves and I also like Liz’s idea of making it a sweatshirt with a hood. This is definitely a pattern that I will be coming back to often. Please let me know if you have any questions about my mods.

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Lawrence Top Dress Hack

I have been thinking about making a dress version of the Lawrence Top for a while. I began with the idea of lengthening the tunic version and adding a wide ruffle at the bottom. I did the math, adjusted the pattern pieces, and selected fabric, but something was holding me back. The more I thought about my idea, the more I realized I couldn’t see myself wearing the final version. I loved the idea, but the design didn’t fit my wardrobe or lifestyle. I love the look of ruffles and frills, but I don’t necessarily like wearing them. I didn’t want to make something that I would only wear once or twice.

I put the idea on hold for a bit while I tried to decide what direction to go with it. When I found a piece of navy double gauze in my stash, my motivation for making a dress was renewed. I decided to blend the two views of the Lawrence Top and make an oversized shirt dress with a tie.

As I looked at the original pattern, I tried to think about what aspects of each view I wanted to use in the hacked dress. I wanted to use the shape and inseam pockets of the tunic version, but with shorter sleeves that could be rolled up if I wanted a different look. I also knew I wanted to incorporate the split hem from View B, but I wanted the hemline to be even.

Once I started laying out all the pieces on my fabric, I was able to work on more specific details of the design. My piece of fabric was 59″|150cm wide x 90″|229cm long. I began by switching the orientation of the original pattern pieces (to be oriented with the grain instead of cross-grain) so I could get more length. Based on the length of fabric I was able to get a dress that hits above the knee.

Adjusted pattern piece layout

I also wanted a little more volume to the dress, so I made the front and back panels wider. I didn’t change the width of the yoke and I was able to gather the panels more. I did make the yoke taller – making it 9”|23cm instead of 6”|15cm – to go with the proportions of the more oversized look.

The buttons are one of my favorite parts of the dress. I found these yellow, vintage buttons last summer and when I got them I had no project in mind. I just loved how all the different shades of yellow and different shapes went together. Once I started sewing the navy gauze, I remembered that I had the yellow buttons and I knew they would be the perfect fit for the dress. I love how they pop on the navy fabric and add a bit of whimsy to the dress.

While I was making the dress, I thought about various ways that it could be worn. I wanted to make sure that it worked in a variety of situations and seasons. The dress definitely feels fancier when it is tied at the waist, but it can also have a casual feel. I like how it feels flexible in its style. The dress layers well over leggings and it can be worn in the cooler months. And I discovered (after we took these pictures, of course) that it layers well over wide-leg culottes. Worn without the tie, it creates a very artist smock vibe which I really like. Wearing it untied, without pants, is also an option. I think it will be great to throw over my swimsuit when we head to the beach.

If you have made the Lawrence Top and/or tried hacking the pattern I would love to hear about it. Leave a comment or post and tag me on Instagram @goldfinch.limited #zwlawrencetop. I love seeing everyone’s makes!

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Lawrence Top Tester Recap

I wanted to put together a special post to highlight my testers final garments. I would not have been able to complete the Lawrence Top sewing pattern without their wonderful help. I really enjoyed working with these women and seeing their finished garments makes me very happy. Thank you again for all your help!

What is great about the pattern is it’s versatility; not only in how you wear the garment, but also how it can work with different types and sizes of fabric. Seeing all the tester versions next to each other really highlights how flexible this pattern is.

Andrea made View B in a lightweight viscose from her stash. Due to the size of the fabric, she didn’t make the low/high hemline. She also used a different piece of lightweight fabric for the interior yoke. Both of these mods are great places to change up the pattern if you have less fabric than recommended. If you click through on her post, you can see her pattern pieces all cut and laid out, along with the very minimal waste she has when finished.

Eli made View A in a more structured gingham cotton. I love how she styled the top in a variety of ways; over jeans, layered with a cozy scarf, and open as a jacket/cardigan. I really enjoy wearing oversized button-up shirts over tank tops, so this will definitely be my go to way to wear the tunic this spring.

Sarah made View A in viscose rayon. She used a wide cut of fabric and was able to lay out her pattern pieces with the fabric grain, as apposed to cross-grain that the pattern calls for. The top is wonderfully drapey and looks good open or closed.

Rebecca made View A in a crisp, white linen. Rebecca styles the tunic with and without a turtleneck showing that the top can be worn throughout many seasons. Rebecca has plans to make another tunic, but making it a bit narrower by adjusting the width of the front and back panels. She also mentioned the idea of modding the pattern into a dress and now I’ve been thinking about ways to make one for myself.

Rose made View B out of a beautiful piece of linen. She made size 2 as her bust size fits right on the lower end of the size range. I love how she styled the cropped top with cozy linen pants. I can’t wait to see her tunic version.

Michelle (@zoetemeyer) made View A in a drapey rayon. Due to the size of fabric she had, she rearranged the pattern pieces and ended up making a longer, narrower version of the top, with a low/high split hemline. She also omitted the seam facing details and instead used this leftover fabric to test her buttonholes. It’s nice to see how she took the pattern pieces and moved them all around the fabric she had to make it work.

Elana (@the_solstice_studio) made a View B of the top. She had a lot of wonderful ideas to mod/hack the pattern: “I thought of a number of ways to use excess fabric or mistakes to keep the top zero waste including ruffles, a tied bow at the front, sleeve details, making an even longer top that’s actually a dress (I fantasized about a dress version of option B the entire time I worked on it, cinched at the waist with a ribbon made from excess fabric or a belt), or even longer sleeves for a winter version of option B.”

Thank you again to my testers! I hope seeing these finished tops gives everyone some inspiration and I look forward to seeing many more finished Lawrence Tops. I would love to see not only your finished garment, but also your process – post on Instagram using #zwlawrencetop and #goldfinchlimited.