Tag: PDF sewing pattern

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Lettie Skirt Fabric Selection and Notions

Let’s get ready to make your Lettie Skirt! Beyond selecting your size, one of the first decisions you must make is what fabric you want to make your skirt out of. The Lettie Skirt is suitable for various fabric types, from light-weight viscose to mid-weight denim.

When selecting your fabric, one of the first things to consider is your experience with zero-waste pattern cutting. Stable fabrics with more structure, such as cotton, will be significantly easier to cut out than shifty fabrics like silk or rayon. The fabric’s weight and drape will also affect your skirt’s overall structure. Fabrics with more drape will create a more fluid, swishy skirt and fabrics with more structure will have more volume around your body and show the shape of the skirt.

Another thing to consider when selecting your fabric is directional print or nap. Due to the zero-waste pattern layout, the skirt panels are oriented in the upright and inverse positions. If you use a fabric with a directional print or nap, 3 of the skirt panels will be upside down.

I used Vanilla Herringbone Handloom Cotton from Loom and Stars for my final sample. This fabric is a dream to work with – easy to cut out and sew and is oh-so-soft. At only 43″ wide, I adjusted my pattern layout to fit (guidance is included in the instruction booklet for making these types of adjustments). The fabric is not 100% opaque, and depending on the light, the pockets can sometimes be seen, but it’s nothing a slip couldn’t fix. You may consider eliminating the pockets if your fabric is lightweight or not 100% opaque.

Another favorite of mine is Washed Hemp from Lyrical Fabrics. This fabric has both structure and drape, similar to linen. It makes for a great everyday skirt that can easily be dressed up if needed. This fabric is a little shifty so takes a little more consideration when cutting, but overall not too difficult.

My pattern testers used a variety of fabrics: linen, ikat, Tencel cotton, chambray, etc. Each one turned out beautifully!

Clockwise from top left: Mid-weight cotton, light-weight denim Tencel, 5 oz linen, ikat cotton, chambray shirting

Notions

After you select your fabric, you will need to gather your notions. The construction of the Lettie Skirt calls for a few materials you may not be familiar with or are not readily available at your local fabric store. The front waistband is interfaced with non-roll, non-fusible waistband interfacing, such as Ban-rol. This type of interfacing allows the waistband to move and bend with your body without collapsing, folding over, and wrinkling. The elastic in the back of the waistband is 1 1/2″ (3.8cm) wide, heavy, non-roll elastic. You want an elastic that will not fold over to the strain of being stretched. Finally, the partial button placket is finished with two different-sized buttons. The main part of the placket uses 1/2 “(12mm) buttons, and the waistband is secured with a 3/4 “-1” (19-25mm) button. These buttons can match, or a contrasting button could be used on the waistband.

Black mother-of-pearl buttons from Core Fabrics

Below, you will find additional information and resources on where to find these materials:

Interfacing:

If you can’t find Ban-rol (or non-roll, non-fusible mono-filament waistband stabilizer) at your local fabric store, it can be purchased online, in bulk, or by the yard. If you prefer not to use this type of interfacing, then un-stretched elastic can be used as a substitute.

Below you will find some online shops that sell Ban-rol. This is not an extensive list, just a starting point. If you purchase from a shop not listed, let me know as I would love to expand the list.

USA:

Canada:

UK:

Australia:

Elastic:

Not all elastic is created equal. When selecting elastic for your Lettie Skirt, you want to select a non-roll elastic that will retain its shape when stretched. This will make a big difference in the feel and look of the back waistband of your Lettie Skirt.

Below you will find some online shops that sell non-roll elastic. Again, this is not an extensive list, just a starting point.

USA:

Canada:

UK:

Australia:

If you have any questions about fabric selection or notions while planning your Lettie Skirt, please don’t hesitate to contact me – emily@goldfinch.limited.

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Introducing the Lettie Skirt

As a person who has rarely worn skirts in the past, it surprises me that I have become a full-on skirt convert. Maybe it’s always been the type of skirt that has kept me from wearing them much. I’ve never been drawn to gathered, tiered skirts that have been popular over the years and are so easy to make. I always feel like I have too much fabric at my waist and never feel quite like myself in those styles. But this past spring, I strongly desired to design a skirt. I wanted it to be something I felt like myself in – a skirt for pants people, a versatile piece to be worn and styled in multiple ways.

And now, after months of work, many samples, and lots of skirt-wearing, I’m pleased to introduce you to the Lettie Skirt, a minimal-waste six-panel skirt. The Lettie Skirt is a midi-length six-panel skirt featuring a partial button placket with integrated buttonholes, an elastic back, and flat piping details. The skirt’s design creates a versatile, everyday staple with subtle details that elevate the garment. 

The Lettie Skirt PDF pattern comes with three different pattern files – printable pattern layouts (print-at-home and copyshop/A0), dimensioned pattern layouts to draft directly to the fabric, and projector files – along with a detailed instruction booklet. There are 20 sizes, ranging from waist: 25”-58” (63.5-147.3cm) and hip: 33”-66” (83.8-167.6cm).

Lettie Skirt PDF sewing pattern

During the design development phase of the Lettie Skirt, I spent a lot of time looking at inspo photos on Pinterest. I was searching for a feeling – a vibe of a skirt and outfit – not necessarily an exact silhouette to put my spin on. I wanted something that was not overly feminine – again, a skirt for pants people. I wanted to feel the same ease I feel when wearing this skirt as I do when wearing my favorite pair of pants. I also knew I wanted the skirt to be something that could be worn just as easily with a tee shirt and tennis shoes as it could with a button-up and loafers.

After establishing a general idea for the zero-waste pattern layout, it became time to think about the details. And the Lettie Skirt is all about the details – flat piping, integrated buttonholes on the partial button placket, front pleats, and a front slit – all with clean interior finishes.

I’ve been drawn to the idea of integrated buttonholes for a long time. I love the idea that they are built into the garment. I knew that to include something like this in the skirt’s design, I would need elements that the integrated buttonholes could be sewn into. That is where the flat piping comes in. Not only does it provide texture and visual interest to the skirt, but it is an integral part of the buttonhole construction.

These buttonholes are the most complicated part of the construction process (video tutorial). I sewed many samples to determine the best way to integrate functioning buttonholes into the seamline. Every time I sew up a sample, I get a little thrill that the process actually works.

The Lettie Skirt is a slow and satisfying sewing project. The construction details and clean finished seams come together to make a beautifully finished garment. My samples have become wardrobe staples that can be styled in a multitude of ways. This summer that has entailed a tee shirt and tennis shoes, but with cooler weather approaching, I’m looking forward to exploring the new styling options.

Lettie Skirt PDF sewing pattern

I’m looking forward to seeing more Lettie Skirts out in the world. Use the hashtags #LettieSkirt and #GoldfinchLettieSkirt and tag me @goldfinchtextilestudio if you post to social media. If you have any questions about the Lettie Skirt, please don’t hesitate to reach out to me – emily@goldfinch.limited.

Happy sewing!

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Lynn Vest Tester Round-Up

I’d first like to thank everyone for the warm welcome to the Lynn Vest. It feels good to have this pattern out in the world as fall is beginning to settle in. I know I’m looking forward to wearing layers as the weather gets cooler.

Lynn Vest PDF Pattern

With the release of a new pattern I always like to show off the testers versions – not only as an appreciation of the hard work that they put in, but also to give you an idea of how the pattern looks on different people and in a variety of fabrics. It is helpful to be able to see someone wearing a similar size that you are considering making or see the garment in a fabric type that you may want to use. Below you will find each tester’s measurements, the size they made, what fabric was used, and a run down of any modifications that they may have made for the pattern. Everyone’s body measurements are listed in following format: Bust/Chest, Waist, Hips, Height.

As a note, during the testing period, we discovered that there was a bit too much ease at the waist/hips. Some testers had finished their garments at this point, while others were still working on theirs. Because of this, some people went back to bring in the side seam and a few people have plans to update theirs in the future.

Kerry | 36, 28, 40, 5’6” | Size B

Kerry’s Lynn Vest is made from a camel wool blend for the main fabric and a mystery upholstery/decor fabric for the lining. She chose to only use two of the pockets. Kerry has plans to make a version that is car coat or duster length.

Lucas | 39”, 36”, 40”, 6’2” | Size D

Lucas made their Lynn Vest out of light cotton denim (main fabric) and cotton shirting (lining). Lucas added 2” to the length of the vest to accommodate their height. They were in between sizes and choose to size up, but in retrospect they think sizing down would have been a better choice.

Amanda | 118cm, 100cm, 127cm | Size E

Amanda’s Lynn Vest is made from two thrifted pieces of woven fabric. She suspects that the main fabric is a cotton/linen blend and the lining is a poly/cotton blend. Both fabrics have quite a bit of drape. She didn’t make any modifications to the pattern.

Vathsala | 38”, 32”, 42”, 5’7” | Size C

Vathsala made her Lynn Vest from a light-medium weight textured cotton for the main fabric and a light-medium weight cotton lawn for the lining. She used leftover fabric from a previous project so she changed the layout the accommodate the fabric on hand. Because of this her collar is made from the lining fabric instead of the main fabric.

Courtney | 47”, 39”, 45”, 5’6” | Size E

Courtney made their Lynn Vest out of a thick cotton for the main fabric and a lighter weight denim/chambray for the lining. Courtney changed the pattern layout to accommodate the fabric that they had on hand. They drew the pattern pieces out on paper first so they would be able find places the pattern pieces would fit within the scrap fabric.

Fred | 107cm, 107cm, 112cm, 168cm | Size D

Fred’s Lynn Vest is made from cotton canvas for the main fabric (an old curtain!) and the lining is cotton poplin. Fred ended up bringing in the side seams by 1” after he was finished with the vest (this change has since been made to the pattern).

Anna | 42”, 32”, 42” | Size D

Anna used a mix of scraps to make her Lynn Vest. These scraps included a mix of heavy weight denim, wide whale corduroy, and hand woven cotton. Anna excluded in the interior pockets on her vest. Anna also took in side seams by an additional 1/2” per side, as she finished before the final pattern updates were made.

Amelia | 84cm, 70cm, 100cm | Size C

Amelia’s Lynn Vest is made from linen and a medium weight, upcycled cotton floral curtain. Due to the weight of her fabrics, she was unable to topstitch the vest by hand.

Jo | 46”, 48”, 58” | Size E and F

Jo made two Lynn Vest’s during the testing period. For the Size E version, she used linen and waxed cotton. Jo added 1/2” to the side panels and then tapered them so 1” was removed from the top of the side panel and 2” was added to the bottom. This resulted in a narrower waist and a wider hip. For the Size F version, she used linen and striped homespun cotton. She removed 1.125” from each side panel (this was prior to 1/2” being removed from each side panel for the final pattern).

Samy | 33”, 26”, 41”, 5’2” | Size C

Samy used medium weight canvas and a light cotton blend to make her Lynn Vest. She adjusted the size of some of the pockets. Samy also used a 5/8″ seam allowance at the side seam to bring the vest in a bit. She had cut the side panel pattern pieces to the original width and by increasing the seam allowance, she was able to bring the side panels in to the updated width. Increasing the side panel seam allowance is an easy way to adjust the fit of the vest.

Cayden | 36”, 27”, 36”, 5’ 9” | Size B

Cayden made her Lynn Vest from an upcycled tablecloth and thrifted heavy weight cotton gingham. Cayden combined the side panels so there was only one side panel per side. She also left off the collar and added ties to close the front. She also adjusted the size and quantity of the pockets.

Jacqui | 34”, 30”, 38”, 5’7” | Size B

Jacqui used linen for the main fabric and cotton for the lining of her Lynn Vest. She adjusted the pattern layout to accommodate her fabric width. She also used one of the pockets as a liner to a create sturdier pocket.

Mallory | 37″, 29″, 39″ | Size B

Mallory opted to quilt her Lynn Vest. She used a variety of fabrics to create the main fabric; including linen, cotton, sandwashed cotton crepe, viscose linen noil and hemp. For the lining, she uses a thrifted cotton sheet. She used an old flannel sheet for the batting. When topstitching the vest, she had some difficulty due to all the layers, but she used some needle nose pliers to help pull the need through.

Mandy | 44”, 37”, 49”, 5’9” | Size D

Mandy made her Lynn Vest from 12 oz. denim (main) and light ticking (lining). She extended her collar to the hem since she had extra fabric. Mandy also used topstitching details along the pocket edges.

Rose | 49”, 45”, 54”, 5’6” | Size F

Rose made this (hand-sewn!) Lynn Vest for her partner, Christine. Rose used African waxed cotton and boiled wool. She tapered the side panels by increasing the seam allowance at the underarms. She also adjusted the width and orientation of a few of the pockets.

Rebecca | 38”, 29”, 40”, 5’6” | Size C

Rebecca’s Lynn Vest is made from Nevada linen for the main fabric and cotton canvas for the lining. She adjusted the pattern layout to work with the width her fabric. She needed to cut the collar and a few pockets from a separate piece of fabric.

Allison | 48”, 41”, 51” | Size F

Allison made her Lynn Vest from canvas and a cotton sheet. Allison finished her vest before the width of the side panels were adjusted. She had a great idea to add an inverted box pleat at the side panel to bring in waist and create a little flare at the hips. This fit adjustment worked really well for her curves. Adding the pleat at the underarm is another easy way to adjust the fit and it adds a nice visual detail.

If you have any questions about size and fit while planning your Lynn Vest, don’t hesitate to reach out. I would be happy to help you figure out any potential fitting issues. And, thank you again to all the testers! I’m so appreciative of all the support during the pattern making process.

Happy making!