At the beginning of the design process for the Pierce Shirt, I planned to offer two views – a long-sleeve and a short-sleeve version. As the development progressed, it slowly became too much to handle two different pattern layouts, so I decided to drop the short-sleeve view and focus solely on the long-sleeved version. Now that the pattern has been released, I wanted to revisit the short-sleeve version and show you how to make one for yourself.
For this hack, we will work directly with the printed pattern pieces. You will adjust the sleeve length and manipulate the pattern layout to work better with the shortened sleeves. After you have developed your new pattern layout, you will be able to measure it to determine your fabric requirements.
Note that for this particular hack, the result is minimal waste, not zero waste, as the end pattern layout is not a complete rectangle. There may be other ways to approach this pattern hack, and I welcome you to play with the pattern layout to see what you can come up with. The pattern layout for the Pierce Shirt is quite versatile and can be used as a base for multiple designs.
Okay, let’s get started! The changes you will make to the pattern layout are relatively straightforward. If you have already made the long-sleeved version, you will understand how the pattern comes together, which will make hacking the pattern a bit easier—although this is not necessary.
Prep work:
Before we start the hacking, you will need to print the pattern layout of your selected size, assemble it, and cut it out as directed if you haven’t already. Once all the pieces are cut out, set aside the 7-COLLAR, 8-CUFF, 6-PATCH POCKETS, 9-BIAS-BINDING, and 10-OPTIONAL HANG LOOP pattern pieces. If you are making Size D-I, you will not need 11- OPTIONAL MENDING PATCH or TEST STRIP (the irregular pattern piece between the 1-BACK and 2-LOWER FRONT).
Step 1: Shorten 1-BACK and 2-LOWER FRONT sleeves
Take the 1-BACK and 2-LOWER FRONT pattern pieces and mark the point on the sleeves where the underarm curve ends (about 3″(7.6cm) away from the side seam edge). At this point, draw a new sleeve opening edge perpendicular to the straight edge of the sleeve, as shown below in red. Fold the excess sleeve length back and out of the way (or you can cut it off if you wish). This line is the new sleeve length of the BACK and LOWER FRONT pieces.
Once the sleeves are shortened on the 1-BACK and the 2-LOWER FRONT, you can position the pieces so they are butted up next to each other.
Step 2: Shorten 3-UPPER FRONT sleeve
To adjust the 3-UPPER FRONT, align the edge of the neckline openings on the 3-UPPER FRONT and 1-BACK, as shown below with the blue dashed line. To do this accurately, you can lay the 3-UPPER FRONT pattern piece on top of the 1-BACK piece. You can now mark the sleeve length of the 3-UPPER FRONT piece. It should match the sleeve length of the 1-BACK. The 2-LOWER FRONT piece should be 1.5″(3.8cm) wider than the 3-UPPER FRONT.
Step 3: Arrange updated pattern layout
Once the 3-UPPER FRONT sleeve length has been adjusted, you can position the angled sleeve edge against the angled sleeve edge of the 1-BACK piece. Make sure that the center front of the 3-UPPER FRONT is in line with the sleeve edge of the 1-BACK piece (as shown below). Now, you will find a place to put the remaining needed pattern pieces. I have eliminated the 8-CUFF piece, as we will not need it for this hack.
There are a couple of ways to lay out the remaining pieces. You can play with the pattern pieces directly on fabric (as shown below) or work on a large table or the floor to determine the required fabric for your updated layout. As you can see, the original pattern pieces don’t fit perfectly into the updated pattern layout.
The 6-PATCH POCKET, 9-BIAS BINDING, and 10-OPTIONAL HANG LOOP pattern pieces are flexible and can be adjusted to fit within the new pattern layout without much issue. The 7-COLLAR pieces must remain their original size to fit the garment once sewn. Although, the 7-COLLAR pieces can be cut as one, as shown below, but you must eliminate the 1/2″(1.3cm) seam allowance at the center of the piece.
The images below show the adjusted pattern pieces in the updated layouts. You can make new pattern pieces for the 6-PATCH POCKET, 9-BIAS BINDING, and 10-OPTIONAL HANG LOOP, or you can draft the edges directly to the fabric when cutting.
At this point, you will be able to determine your required amount of fabric by measuring the perimeter of the updated layout. Remember to multiply the length by 2. The first option will use a wider width of fabric but less length, and the second option will use less width but a longer length.
Step 4: Sew
Now that you have the new pattern layout, you can continue as directed in the pattern instructions. For my version, I finished the sleeves with bias binding. I used the French bias binding method, which is the same process used at the hem of the shirt. I also adjusted the position of my patch pocket by aligning the top edge of the pocket with the seam of the upper front.
That’s it! If you have any questions regarding this hack or the original pattern, don’t hesitate to reach out – emily@goldfinch.limited. I look forward to seeing more short-sleeved Pierce Shirts out in the world.
I’m thrilled to introduce my latest zero/minimal waste sewing pattern—the Pierce Shirt. This oversized button-up shirt nods to the classic button-up but features distinct details such as asymmetric pintucks, a deep curved hem, and a horizontal front yoke that set it apart and give the garment a modern feel. The interior seams are finished with run-and-flare seams and clean-finished seams to create a beautifully finished garment.
The pattern design utilizes zero-waste pattern drafting techniques and offers a wide range of sizes (21 to be exact!). The bust/chest measurements range from 30”-64” (76.2-162.6cm) and the hip measurements range from 32”-66” (81.3-167.6cm). While the pattern uses zero-waste drafting concepts, some sizes feature minimal waste to accommodate the extensive size range. Suggestions are included in the pattern for ways to use the minimal cutoffs produced. The pattern consists of a detailed instruction booklet and fully printable pattern layouts – print-at-home and Copyshop/A0 files are included, along with a projector file.
This pattern has been in the making for a long time. My first attempt at this design was over two years ago, and the goal was to design a shirt that could be casually thrown on over a t-shirt or tank when I got cold – something less than a cardigan or a jacket but light and still that provided warmth. The thrifted men’s linen button-ups that I used for this purpose were threadbare at the time, and I needed a replacement. I achieved that goal with my first attempt, but the pattern layout and sewing execution required a lot of development.
There have been many variations since and a lot of evolution on the “purpose” of the shirt, but the central concept of interlocking hem and sleeves has remained the same. As I began tweaking the design and making more samples, I grew to love wearing a button-up shirt on its own. I feel a sense of ease – a casual, put-together comfort – wearing this silhouette. And, yes, the shirt still works great as a light layer to keep warm in the evening.
At the beginning of the pattern’s development, I thought that grading and achieving a wide size range would be relatively simple. Oh, was I wrong. Just when I thought I had everything figured out, something else would come up. In the end, I’m so pleased with the final design. My samples have become closet staples, and I have more versions planned.
One thing that I love about this pattern and the pattern layout is how versatile it is. Different fabrics can create completely different looks—play with fabric weight and drape. For a more casual, everyday look, select cotton shirting or linen. If you want to make a more elevated garment, use a cupro or a silk/linen blend. You can also size down to make a slightly more fitted shirt.
Additionally, I have a few ideas for hacking the pattern that I would like to explore more in the coming months. The pattern layout and concept are pretty straightforward and once you understand how the pattern comes together you can also hack and adjust the pattern to create different pieces.
I want to thank my testing team for helping bring this pattern to life. When I say I couldn’t have done it without them, I mean it!! In the next week or so, I’m planning on sharing all of their excellent makes so you can get a glimpse, too. I know how helpful it is for me to see various versions when planning my projects, and I hope that it will benefit you. I also am planning a few video tutorials for some of the trickier bits of the sewing process. They will be posted to my YouTube channel when they are ready, and I will announce them on IG when they are ready.
Please let me know if you have any questions about anything – emily@goldfinch.limited
I’d first like to thank everyone for the warm welcome to the Lynn Vest. It feels good to have this pattern out in the world as fall is beginning to settle in. I know I’m looking forward to wearing layers as the weather gets cooler.
With the release of a new pattern I always like to show off the testers versions – not only as an appreciation of the hard work that they put in, but also to give you an idea of how the pattern looks on different people and in a variety of fabrics. It is helpful to be able to see someone wearing a similar size that you are considering making or see the garment in a fabric type that you may want to use. Below you will find each tester’s measurements, the size they made, what fabric was used, and a run down of any modifications that they may have made for the pattern. Everyone’s body measurements are listed in following format: Bust/Chest, Waist, Hips, Height.
As a note, during the testing period, we discovered that there was a bit too much ease at the waist/hips. Some testers had finished their garments at this point, while others were still working on theirs. Because of this, some people went back to bring in the side seam and a few people have plans to update theirs in the future.
Kerry | 36, 28, 40, 5’6” | Size B
Kerry’s Lynn Vest is made from a camel wool blend for the main fabric and a mystery upholstery/decor fabric for the lining. She chose to only use two of the pockets. Kerry has plans to make a version that is car coat or duster length.
Lucas | 39”, 36”, 40”, 6’2” | Size D
Lucas made their Lynn Vest out of light cotton denim (main fabric) and cotton shirting (lining). Lucas added 2” to the length of the vest to accommodate their height. They were in between sizes and choose to size up, but in retrospect they think sizing down would have been a better choice.
Amanda | 118cm, 100cm, 127cm | Size E
Amanda’s Lynn Vest is made from two thrifted pieces of woven fabric. She suspects that the main fabric is a cotton/linen blend and the lining is a poly/cotton blend. Both fabrics have quite a bit of drape. She didn’t make any modifications to the pattern.
Vathsala | 38”, 32”, 42”, 5’7” | Size C
Vathsala made her Lynn Vest from a light-medium weight textured cotton for the main fabric and a light-medium weight cotton lawn for the lining. She used leftover fabric from a previous project so she changed the layout the accommodate the fabric on hand. Because of this her collar is made from the lining fabric instead of the main fabric.
Courtney | 47”, 39”, 45”, 5’6” | Size E
Courtney made their Lynn Vest out of a thick cotton for the main fabric and a lighter weight denim/chambray for the lining. Courtney changed the pattern layout to accommodate the fabric that they had on hand. They drew the pattern pieces out on paper first so they would be able find places the pattern pieces would fit within the scrap fabric.
Fred | 107cm, 107cm, 112cm, 168cm | Size D
Fred’s Lynn Vest is made from cotton canvas for the main fabric (an old curtain!) and the lining is cotton poplin. Fred ended up bringing in the side seams by 1” after he was finished with the vest (this change has since been made to the pattern).
Anna | 42”, 32”, 42” | Size D
Anna used a mix of scraps to make her Lynn Vest. These scraps included a mix of heavy weight denim, wide whale corduroy, and hand woven cotton. Anna excluded in the interior pockets on her vest. Anna also took in side seams by an additional 1/2” per side, as she finished before the final pattern updates were made.
Amelia | 84cm, 70cm, 100cm | Size C
Amelia’s Lynn Vest is made from linen and a medium weight, upcycled cotton floral curtain. Due to the weight of her fabrics, she was unable to topstitch the vest by hand.
Jo | 46”, 48”, 58” | Size E and F
Jo made two Lynn Vest’s during the testing period. For the Size E version, she used linen and waxed cotton. Jo added 1/2” to the side panels and then tapered them so 1” was removed from the top of the side panel and 2” was added to the bottom. This resulted in a narrower waist and a wider hip. For the Size F version, she used linen and striped homespun cotton. She removed 1.125” from each side panel (this was prior to 1/2” being removed from each side panel for the final pattern).
Samy | 33”, 26”, 41”, 5’2” | Size C
Samy used medium weight canvas and a light cotton blend to make her Lynn Vest. She adjusted the size of some of the pockets. Samy also used a 5/8″ seam allowance at the side seam to bring the vest in a bit. She had cut the side panel pattern pieces to the original width and by increasing the seam allowance, she was able to bring the side panels in to the updated width. Increasing the side panel seam allowance is an easy way to adjust the fit of the vest.
Cayden | 36”, 27”, 36”, 5’ 9” | Size B
Cayden made her Lynn Vest from an upcycled tablecloth and thrifted heavy weight cotton gingham. Cayden combined the side panels so there was only one side panel per side. She also left off the collar and added ties to close the front. She also adjusted the size and quantity of the pockets.
Jacqui | 34”, 30”, 38”, 5’7” | Size B
Jacqui used linen for the main fabric and cotton for the lining of her Lynn Vest. She adjusted the pattern layout to accommodate her fabric width. She also used one of the pockets as a liner to a create sturdier pocket.
Mallory | 37″, 29″, 39″ | Size B
Mallory opted to quilt her Lynn Vest. She used a variety of fabrics to create the main fabric; including linen, cotton, sandwashed cotton crepe, viscose linen noil and hemp. For the lining, she uses a thrifted cotton sheet. She used an old flannel sheet for the batting. When topstitching the vest, she had some difficulty due to all the layers, but she used some needle nose pliers to help pull the need through.
Mandy | 44”, 37”, 49”, 5’9” | Size D
Mandy made her Lynn Vest from 12 oz. denim (main) and light ticking (lining). She extended her collar to the hem since she had extra fabric. Mandy also used topstitching details along the pocket edges.
Rose | 49”, 45”, 54”, 5’6” | Size F
Rose made this (hand-sewn!) Lynn Vest for her partner, Christine. Rose used African waxed cotton and boiled wool. She tapered the side panels by increasing the seam allowance at the underarms. She also adjusted the width and orientation of a few of the pockets.
Rebecca | 38”, 29”, 40”, 5’6” | Size C
Rebecca’s Lynn Vest is made from Nevada linen for the main fabric and cotton canvas for the lining. She adjusted the pattern layout to work with the width her fabric. She needed to cut the collar and a few pockets from a separate piece of fabric.
Allison | 48”, 41”, 51” | Size F
Allison made her Lynn Vest from canvas and a cotton sheet. Allison finished her vest before the width of the side panels were adjusted. She had a great idea to add an inverted box pleat at the side panel to bring in waist and create a little flare at the hips. This fit adjustment worked really well for her curves. Adding the pleat at the underarm is another easy way to adjust the fit and it adds a nice visual detail.
If you have any questions about size and fit while planning your Lynn Vest, don’t hesitate to reach out. I would be happy to help you figure out any potential fitting issues. And, thank you again to all the testers! I’m so appreciative of all the support during the pattern making process.
Since the release of the Jones Trouser last spring, I have been thinking of a way to modify the pattern into shorts. The main roadblock to shortening the trousers into shorts was the leg gusset. The leg gusset is an integral part of the crotch curve length, and simply shortening the leg and gusset portion of the pattern layout would result in shorts that do not fit properly. I wasn’t sure how to rectify this issue while still maintaining a zero/minimal waste layout.
I had been putting off thinking about this issue as it felt like something I couldn’t solve, and I was having difficulty seeing how I could lay out the pattern differently. Now that summer has arrived, I realized that I had a hole in my wardrobe for a nice pair of shorts – I only had elastic waist shorts that I throw on for everyday wear. I wanted a pair of pleated, wide-hem shorts to wear casually or dressed up. A pair of Jones Trousers shorts would fill this hole perfectly, and with a little nudge from fellow sewists (@sewsoybean and @la.ila.creates, who both made Jones Trousers Shorts this spring), I was able to finally focus on coming up with a solution. And to my surprise, it was not nearly as difficult as I had let myself believe!
I started by staring at the pattern layout on my computer, and this got me nowhere but frustrated. So I dug out my paper pattern and started messing around with the pieces – moving and shifting each piece around. Through this process, I realized that the angle of the pockets matches the angle on the leg gusset, and these pieces could be nested together by flipping the leg gusset in the opposite direction than I had initially laid it out.
By nesting the leg gusset between the pockets pattern pieces, I could shorten the leg gusset significantly, allowing the legs to be shortened by the same amount. When I began this process, I was not committed to a specific inseam length as I wanted to be flexible in how I modified the layout. So I decided to use my pocket length as the inseam length (10” in this case). I planned to adjust the shorts’ length once I sewed them, as I wanted to include a wide-hem.
How to Adjust the Pattern Layout
Pattern Details: Size H made with Hemp Summercloth dyed with Rit Dye.
Fabric size required for Size H: 37″ wide by 62″ long
First, determine how long you would like your inseam. You can start with the length of the pockets as your inseam length, as I have done, or can start with a shorter inseam (the leg gusset will still be placed between the pockets and there will be a small excess of fabric).
Now, mark this inseam length on the leg pattern pieces. You can either trace a shortened version of the original pattern piece or fold the pattern piece back and out of the way. You can also straighten the outer leg seam at this point if your leg piece is long enough to still include the angle.
Once the necessary pattern adjustments to the inseam length have been made, then the remaining pattern pieces can be adjusted to work with the adjusted leg length. I eliminated the cuff piece and moved the fly pieces to fit within empty spots in the layout. There is a remaining rectangle that could potentially be used as patch/cargo pockets or for another project. Also, depending on the length of your belt loop piece, you may need to cut additional belt loops from the remaining rectangle. Note: If you are making Size I-S, you will make the same changes, but you will replace the cuff piece with the pocket extension piece.
Pattern Piece Cutting
After the pattern layout is fully adjusted, the pattern pieces can be laid out on the fabric and cut out. The pockets and the leg gussets should be placed on the fold. When cutting out the pattern pieces, DON’T cut the fold on the pockets. You will need to cut the fold on the leg gusset since the orientation of the leg gusset has changed. The leg gusset will be sewn back together in the proper orientation. For the remaining pieces, the process of cutting is the same as for the original pattern.
Sewing Process
Now that all the pieces are cut out and ready, the sewing can begin. First, you will need to sew the leg gusset piece together with a flat felled seam or a faux flat felled seam. After sewing the leg gusset together, you can then proceed as directed in the sewing instructions.
After the shorts are fully constructed, you will need to hem the shorts. I tried on my shorts and played around with how long I wanted the inseam to be. I decided on an inseam length of 7″. Due to the slight angle in the leg gusset, I was unable to simply turn up the hem and sew because the hem would not lay flat. At this point, I could have cut off the excess length, but since I wanted a wide hem, I needed to find a solution. After a bit of research and thinking about my finishing option, I decided to open the inseams as you would if you were shortening tapered pants.
To do this, I unpicked the inseam seams to about 1/2″ shorter than my desired hem width. I used a 2″ hem with an additional 1/2″ turned under to conceal the raw edge so I unpicked 2″ of the inseam. The wide hem could then be spread apart so that it would lay flat. To finish the seams, I pressed the raw edge toward the wrong side by 1/2″ and then again by 2″ and pinned the hem in place. Then, I folded and pressed the seam allowance of the split inseam toward the wrong side and pinned them flat. If you know from the beginning how wide you would like your inseam to be, you could stop your inseam seam at the appropriate point.
Once the hem is pinned, you can edgestitch the hem in place. When you reach the gaps at the inseam, just continue sewing so that it looks like a continuous seam from the outside. Then, finish the splits by hand-stitching each edge down. I used a blind hem stitch so that it would not be visible from the right side.
After the hem is finished you can give your shorts a final press and you’re done! I’m very pleased with my finished Jones Trouser Shorts and I will definitely be getting lots of wear out of them this summer. Please let me know if you have any questions about the process for hacking the pattern – email emily@goldfinch.limited or reach out on IG @goldfinchtextilestudio. I look forward to seeing more Jones Trousers Shorts in the world. Be sure to tag me on IG if you post your version. I love seeing your makes!!
One thing I love about the Eddie Smock is that once you understand how all the pieces come together, you can adjust the layout and design to suit not only your available fabric but also your preferences. For this hack, I used View 1 (the long-sleeved, dress version) as the base and I modified the neckline from a scooped neck to a v-neck, adjusted the layout to shorten the sleeves, and replaced the side ties with an elastic back. I also shortened the dress to work better for my height (5’4″). The steps below will walk you through the process of making these modifications to your Eddie Smock. You will need the original Eddie Smock pattern to complete this hack, along with a piece of elastic that is about half to two-thirds the length of your waist.
For this hack, I used 3/4″ elastic to gather the back. I chose this width because that’s what I had on hand and I didn’t want to use a wide elastic. You can choose to use whatever width suits you. The placement of the elastic casing can also be adjusted. I was able to make the whole dress first (with the exception of finishing the hem) and then decide exactly where I wanted the elastic to go. Once the dress was finished, I was able to pin the elastic over different portions of the back panel to decide where I wanted my elastic gathering to be.
Process
After selecting my size (Size B), I began the process of making my desired changes by shortening the front/back and side panels and swapping out the long sleeves from View 1 with the short sleeves from View 3. I used Adobe Illustrator to do this, but you could draw the layout to scale on a sheet of paper or use Inkscape (a free vector drawing program). I first shortened the front and back panels to 42″ (taking 4″(10.2cm) from the length). Then, I adjusted the side panel length and hem width based on the instructions in the instruction booklet. If you don’t need to make any length adjustments, you can skip to swapping out your sleeves.
To shorten the sleeves, I simply used the sleeve measurements from View 3 instead of the measurements from View 1. This left me with a sizable gap in the pattern layout. I used this area to my advantage and placed the pocket piece under the sleeves. Due to the width of the sleeve, the pockets didn’t need to be pieced together as in the original layout. I decided to keep the original length of the pockets, but this length could be adjusted if you wanted to. Also, because I used the short sleeve option, the cuff pattern piece was eliminated.
For the final adjustment to the layout, I eliminated the side tie pattern piece and made the remaining portion of the layout the continuous bias binding. Note: A long, skinny piece of fabric will need to be used for the elastic casing. This could be a scrap piece of fabric or it could be incorporated into the layout. I didn’t add this piece to my pattern layout because I used a scrap piece leftover from squaring off the fabric used to make the dress.
Once the pattern layout is finalized, you can make the necessary adjustments to the neckline template. After printing and cutting out the template for the front neckline, I took a piece of paper and placed the template in the top, right-hand corner. Then, I traced the template leaving me with a starting guide for adjusting the neckline. Next, you will want to determine how much you want to lower the neckline — 1/2″(1.3cm)-2″(5cm) depending on your preference. I chose to lower mine by 1.25″(3.2cm). Mark this point along the right-hand edge of your paper (the fold line edge of the template). Now, adjust the width of the neckline slightly — 1/2″(1.3cm)-1″(2.5cm). I widened mine by 1/2″(1.3cm). Again, mark this point.
After your height and width adjustments are made, you can change the neckline from a scooped neck to a v-neck. Begin by marking the edge of the button placket, 1.25″(3.2cm) over from the center of the neckline, and transfer over your new low point of the neckline to this edge. You don’t want to include the width of the button placket when re-drawing your neckline. To create the v-neck, you will connect this point to the new width point using a gentle curve. You can use a curved ruler to do this or if you don’t have a curved ruler, you can print one. Don’t just draw a straight line connecting the two points, as it will not look quite right on your body once sewn up.
Next, you will fold the paper on the button placket edge (at the 1.25″(3.2cm) point) and then fold it in again by 1/4″(0.6cm). This mimics how the button placket is created. Once folded, flip the paper over and trace the v-neckline. You will do this for both portions of the button placket (as shown below).
Finally, once the front neckline adjustments have been made, you will need to make the same width adjustment to the back neckline.
Sewing Steps
Now that all the pattern adjustments have been made, you can begin sewing your modified Eddie Smock. When sewing your garment you will follow the written instructions with a few minor changes to the process as follows below. I’ve noted when a step is skipped and when changes have been made to a particular step. If nothing is noted about a step, then proceed as written in the original directions.
To begin, follow the cutting steps as directed using your updated layout and use the new neckline template to trace your neckline to the front and back panels.
Skip Step 3
Step 4: If your pocket pattern piece was adjusted to eliminate the need to piece your pocket together, skip Step 4b.
Step 5: The image below shows how the new neckline and button placket will be pressed in place.
Step 6a: When making the neckline facing using the front neckline cutout, your piece will look different due to the v-neck adjustment. Instead of matching the wrong sides together, match the right sides together so that the box pleat will be on the wrong side instead of the right side.
Step 6b: When pressing the edge toward the wrong side, make sure the tip of the V is folded in to conceal any raw edges.
Step 6c: To determine how long to make the back pleat, measure down the length of the new neckline along the center of the back panel.
Step 6f: You may choose to adjust where the hang loop is positioned. In this case, I decided to place the hang loop at the neckline edge as shown below.
Step 8a-c: I chose to sew the panels together first and then finish them together. Since the side ties are not being used, you do not need to add the openings as directed in Step 8b.
Step 8d: Press the seam allowance toward the side seam. At this point, ONLY topstitch the seam allowances on the back panel. The front seam allowances will be topstitched at a later step.
Skip Step 10
Step 12: Follow the instructions for View 3 – the short-sleeve version.
Step 15: When finishing the neckline, I used the same instructions as given for the original neckline, but because of the angle of the neckline I made some adjustments at the button placket edge. The following is what worked for me, but it is not perfect. When pinning in place, I hung the bias binding over the edge slightly. Once sewn and pressed to the wrong side, the edge of the bias binding was very close to the edge of the button placket and I was able to continue as directed.
It may have been better to insert the bias binding using the traditional method so that you can align the angled edge with the edge of the button placket better than how I have done it. Play around with it a bit and see what works for you.
Step 16: Because the front panel seam allowances have not been topstitched yet, you will finish the hem after the elastic casing has been inserted.
Skip Step 18
How to add the elastic casing
The final step is to add the elastic casing. To begin, you will need to determine where you would like to insert the elastic casing. I chose to place mine at the same point where the side ties would have been inserted; starting and ending at the front panel/side panel side seam. By starting and ending at the seam, the seam allowance can be folded over the end of the casing and topstitched down to conceal the ends.
Once the placement has been determined, you will measure how long your casing needs to be by measuring from one endpoint to the other. For mine, the length was 36″(91.4cm). Next, determine the width of the casing. Take the width of your elastic and add 1″(2.5cm). My elastic was 3/4″(1.9cm) wide so I cut my casing 1.75″(4.4cm) wide by 36″(91.4cm) long. Then, press each long raw edge toward the wrong side, by 3/8″(1 cm).
To attach the casing, begin by marking a straight guideline from one endpoint to the other. To do so, I first marked the point where each side tie opening would have been, 16.5″(41.9 cm) down from the shoulder edge as shown in the instructions. Then, to find the point at the center back, I measured from the first points I marked (16.5″(41.9 cm) down from the shoulder) down to the hemline. I used this distance to measure up from the hem at the center back. Then I was able to connect all the points to have a straight guideline. With the guideline established, I pinned the casing in place and topstitched along both the top and bottom edge of the casing, leaving both ends open.
Now that the casing has been inserted, you will need to determine the length of the elastic. I didn’t want mine to be too tight, so I just measured on my waist, at about the point where the side ties would be inserted, from side to side. I marked the elastic at this point but didn’t cut it yet. Then, using a safety pin, I inserted the elastic into the casing. Once the elastic was in the casing, I pinned each end and tried it on. At this point, I decided to tighten it up just a bit. You will be able to play with it to determine just how gathered you want the back to be.
Once I was happy with the length, I cut the elastic, making sure it was still pinned in place. Then, I folded the seam allowance over the ends and topstitched it in place. This secured the ends of the elastic. Finally, I didn’t want my elastic to twist in the casing, so I also stitched it down at a couple of points on the back.
Lastly, I finished the hem as directed and was done!
If you have any questions about these modifications, please don’t hesitate to reach out to me via email – emily@goldfinch.limited. I would love to see any Eddie Smocks that you make – please share using the tags #EddieSmock and #GoldfinchEddieSmock – make sure to also tag @goldfinchtextilestudio.
Every time I go through the testing phase of pattern design, I’m hopeful but also nervous about how the process will go. It can be a bit nerve-wracking having your work looked at for the first time after you have been staring at it for months. One of the points of pattern testing is having help finding any errors in the instructions and drafting but also seeing the finished garment through the eyes of other makers besides myself. I love seeing all the different types of fabric used, modifications made to suit one’s body & preferences, and overall interpretation of the design and how it is styled.
During the testing phase, it was discovered that the sleeves for view 1 were too short. You will notice that for some testers their long sleeves are a bit short but still wearable. Some testers took this as an opportunity to make a few mods to the sleeve finishes. The sleeve length has since been adjusted.
Below is a look at the testers’ makes. I have included all the testers’ measurements, the version made, and if they had any potential plans on how to use any remaining fabric from the project.
Ambrosia made View 1 out of a lightweight slubby cotton plaid. She made size C in the D-cup range and lengthened the dress by 3″. Ambrosia plans to wear the Eddie Smock not only as a dress but as a layering piece and a duster/light jacket. Due to the fabric width that she started with, she had very minimal fabric remaining and will probably use the scraps for stuffing.
Michele was my first test fitter. She was instrumental in helping me through the early phases of hashing out the B-Cup & D-Cup ranges. Michele made two versions and with each, she went “off-road” a bit to make the garment work for her. Here she made View 1 in the B-cup range (even though she is a D-cup) to see how much the garment would rise in the front. It did rise, but she is not bothered by this. Michele included plenty of personalized details throughout the smock by adding details to the pockets and the neck facing.
Christina made View 1, size C in the D-Cup range without any modifications. She used light-to-midweight cotton to make her version. Christina used bias binding to finish her sleeves since they ended up being a bit short for her. Her version shows how view 2 sleeves would look with view 1 body. Christina plans to wear her version as a dress, but also as a duster/layering piece. Christina made a Pearl Head Scarf by Spaghetti Western Sewing with her remaining fabric.
Rebecca used 5.3oz softened linen to make View 2. She didn’t make any modifications to the pattern layout. When deciding how wide to make her sleeve openings, Rebecca made sure they were wide enough that she could easily layer a long sleeve shirt under the tunic. Rebecca plans to use her remnant fabric to make a Thread & Sprout nature top and/or pillowcase.
Jess made View 1, size H in the D-cup range. She didn’t make any modifications to the pattern. Jess used a poly-viscose to make her dress. Her pockets ended up being a bit short so that was something that I was able to adjust in the final pattern layout. She had a long, thin piece of fabric remaining that she thought could be made into a variety of accessories – a hairband, scrunchies, hair ribbon, wrapped on chunky hoop earrings, etc.
Bean made two versions of view 3, each with a different sleeve length. She was able to play with the pattern layout and made adjustments to make a version with 3/4 sleeves and one with long sleeves. I love that she was able to take the concept of the pattern and tweak it to work for her preferences and the fabric that she had on hand. Bean had a great idea of making a removable collar with some of the remaining fabric.
Nele made View 3 out of a very flowy, lightweight fabric. She made size B in the B-cup range without any modifications. While the shifty fabric was a bit more difficult to cut out, the finished blouse is lovely. Nele had minimal fabric remaining as she had previously used some of the fabric and she was able to get the pattern layout in the remaining piece.
Frankie made View 1, Size C, in the B-cup range. They used yarned-dyed cotton to make their version. Frankie only made modifications to adjust the layout to accommodate the slightly smaller fabric width. Frankie plans to use the garment as a layering piece. They had remaining fabric from the total cut and have already made a Pearl Head Scarf by Spaghetti Western Sewing.
Jini Kai made View 2 out of lightweight linen. She made size E in the D-Cup range without any modifications. She chose to make her side ties from the remaining bias binding instead of using the provided pattern piece for the side ties. Jini Kai had minimal fabric remaining once the project was complete. She recommends making patchwork clothing with the scraps a la this patchwork clothing tutorial from Elbe Textiles.
Eowyn made View 1 in size B, B-cup range. She used a piece of thrifted yarn-dyed cotton plaid to make her dress. Due to the shorter sleeves during the time of testing, Eowyn decided to finish her sleeves with bias-binding ties. She also chose to position her patch pockets in the front of the dress instead of on the sides. Eowyn plans to use any remnant fabric for toy-making projects.
Erika made View 1 out of fine corduroy fabric. She made size A in the B-cup range. She adjusted the layout slightly by placing the side tie pattern piece in the horizontal direction because her fabric was only 43″ wide. Erika had 11.5″ of fabric remaining and she is considering making a fanny pack with it.
Beth chose to make View 1 out of heavier-weight linen. She sewed a size D in the B-Cup range. She changed the length to accommodate her height and also moved the pockets up to better work for her. Beth is going to wear the dress for a bit and decide if she wants to shorten the ties some and/or add more buttons.
Amanda made View 3 out of cotton shirting. She made size E in the D-Cup range. She didn’t make any adjustments to the pattern layout. Amanda decided to leave off the buttons for now and use the blouse as a layering piece. I also love how she styled the blouse by crossing over the front panels and tucking them in. Amanda plans on incorporating the small amount of remaining fabric into a patchwork project that she is currently working on.
Laurie used a heavier-weight mystery fabric from their stash to make View 1. They chose to make size D in the D-Cup range. Laurie’s measurements put them directly between two sizes in the bust. They chose to size down and in the end, they think that sizing up may be the better option, especially in a heavier fabric. Laurie plans to use this Eddie Smock as a duster. With the small amount of remaining fabric, they thought adding a ruffle or collar to the smock would be a good option.
Jeanne chose to make View 2 out of cotton lawn. She made size D in the B-cup range. Jeanne adjusted the length of the overall smock (shortened by 4″) and the length of the sleeves by 2″. Due to her length adjustments, she was able to make her pockets out of one piece instead of piecing two together. She also positioned her patch pockets in the front of the tunic inside of the sides.
Chris made View 1 in size C, B-cup range. She chose a cotton/linen blend with a fairly loose weave. She adjusted the overall length and the sleeve length to accommodate her height, but the sleeves still end up being a bit short for her. Her sleeves ended up being 3/4 length with bias bound placket and edge. Chris will use the remaining fabric for pocket facings, etc.
Andrea reused an old linen bedsheet to make her version of the Eddie Smock. She sewed her version in a size D using the B-Cup range. Andrea used 3/4 length sleeves and chose to leave them un-gathered. Andrea experimented with different ways to tie her smock.
Lucy used lightweight denim to make View 2 of the Eddie Smock. She sewed a size D in the B-cup range, with 4″ of length to accommodate her height. Lucy plans to wear the smock as a utility type of garment and she chose to include visible topstitching to enhance this look. She had about a 4″ wide strip of fabric remaining and she plans on using it for patchwork projects.
Dani made View 2, size E in the D-cup range. She used a cotton bedsheet as a toile and plans to use it as a painting smock and she plans on adding 4 large buttons to close it over her clothes while painting, etc. Dani didn’t make any adjustments to the pattern layout. Dani is considering making a denim version for gardening with extra pockets. She plans on making more continuous bias binding with her remaining fabric.
I hope seeing all the testers’ versions is helpful when you are planning your own version. While the Eddie Smock is not intended to be an overly fit garment, it is helpful to review the finished garment measurements and make adjustments as needed. Please don’t hesitate to reach out to me via email if you have questions about selecting your size – emily@goldfinch.limited.
Once again, thank you to all my amazing testers! Going back through all the photos has me feeling so grateful for everyone who is so willing to help make sewing patterns better.
I try to make some kind of Christmas gift for my family every year. Some years the gifts are more elaborate than others. Sometimes I have an idea well before Christmas, other years it feels more last minute. I’m sure if you have made handmade gifts you know this feeling well. And even though the official gift-giving season is over, for now, I thought I would talk a bit about the gifts that I made this year because really any time of year can be a time to give a handmade gift to a family member, a friend, or even yourself. Luckily, this year I managed to not only have an idea, but I had “plenty” of time to get it done. I say “plenty” because I did have lots of time to get the gifts done, but I still felt a bit of pressure – such is the nature of working in Santa’s workshop.
When Helen’s Closet released their pattern for the Sam Apron (free when you signup for their newsletter), I was hooked. For years I’ve been telling myself that I need to make myself a full apron – I had been sporadically wearing a half waist apron – and this was the perfect opportunity to finally get it done. I thought it would make the perfect gift for my family members as many are great home chefs and/or work in workshops where an apron would be readily used.
After reviewing the fabric requirements, I ordered some heavyweight linen hoping that I would be able to adjust the pattern to work with the width and yardage that I purchased. Since I was making aprons for a variety of people – different heights and sizes – I knew I needed to figure out a way that I could adjust the pattern so I won’t have a bunch of random pieces of leftover fabric. When I ordered the fabric I did not have a full plan yet, I was just hoping that I would be able to figure something out easily.
The pattern provides you with very helpful guidance on selecting a size. Because I was making these for people who were not standing in front of me, I needed to make some guesses. When selecting the sizes, I also wanted to take into account my fabric length and width so I would be able to maximize my fabric. Fortunately, I was able to divide the sizes of 6 individuals into 3 apron widths, i.e. 2 aprons at 31″ wide, 2 aprons at 33″ wise and 2 at 36″ wide. For the length, I decided to make them all the same by dividing the fabric width of 57″ in half and cutting the aprons out on the cross-grain. This allowed me to get 2 aprons for each width that I needed. This also meant that the aprons ended up being a bit short.
To solve this problem, I dug into my linen scrap collection with the idea of adding scrappy patchwork at the bottom of the aprons to make up for the missing length. Past me must have been planning for this because I found some already pieced-together linen that happened to be just about the sizes I needed. Needless to say, I was very excited about this find. It ended up being a huge time saver! I just sewed these patchwork strips at the bottom of the aprons and made the lengths different based on everyone’s height. This solved my length issue perfectly.
The next decision was to decide how to use the bib cutouts. I knew that I wanted to incorporate them into the apron somehow. For a bit, I thought of using them to lengthen the aprons, but that wasn’t going to work. Then I started playing around with various pocket ideas. The original pattern comes with ample pockets and I wanted to make sure the ones I made did too. In the end, I made a patch pocket out of the cutouts. I sewed the cutouts right-sides together, leaving a small opening so I could turn them right-side out. Once turned out and pressed, I had a nice lined patch pocket made for the apron offcuts. I sewed down the top edge and added a little indigo tag to each pocket.
I used more scrap linen for the top pocket and the towel loop – which by the way is an amazing addition to any apron! I also made it easier on myself and used twill tape for both the cutout finishing edge and the straps. I would have been able to piece enough scrap linen together to make the straps, but that would have increased my time spent by a lot.
In the end, I am very pleased with the outcome and so are the recipients. I even remember to wear mine while cooking – mostly! I would highly recommend the Sam Apron pattern – for yourself or as a gift. I enjoyed the process of taking a pattern and reimagining it as a zero-waste pattern. This one was simple and easy to do and I look forward to challenging myself more this year with this kind of work. I hope to share more of this in the coming months. If you have done the same, I would love to hear about it!
Liz Hayward from The Craft of Clothes recently released a zero-waste t-shirt pattern – the Xanthea Top. Liz proposed a pattern swap with our latest patterns, as t-shirts and overalls are a perfect combo. I’m not quite done with the Simone Overalls pattern, but I’m looking forward to styling the Xanthea Top with my finished overalls and seeing Liz’s version of both together. It was also perfect timing, as I have been wanting to make some basics for myself and tees were first on my list.
The Xanthea Top is very versatile, as it is designed to be used with knit or woven fabrics and it is drafted up to a 70″ bust. The top has a fun, unique construction, and a slightly boxy fit. The final top hangs on the bias so it has a nice drape. It also has options for short sleeves or long sleeves. Liz provides a printable mockup of the top so you can fully understand the construction before you get started.
Short-sleeved version with neckline for knit fabric
Long Sleeve version with neckline for woven fabric
I decided I wanted to play with and highlight the unique design lines created on the front of the top. It has been a while since I made a handstitched garment so I was excited to jump in again with the Xanthea top. My goal was to use mock flat-felled seams for the body and finish the neckline with a more stretchable stitch. I made a few minor changes to the overall design; including using the woven neckline for the knit version, omitting the sleeves, and taking out a bit at the shoulders.
I made a size 10 based on my body measurements and I’m very happy with the fit. I also made a version out of woven fabric in the same size and while it does fit, I think I may size up for future versions made with woven fabric as it does pull a bit in the shoulder area when I cross my arms. I’m not sure if this is because of my fabric choice or the size, but I will experiment with that further.
The original pattern does not have shoulder seams, but I decided to slightly modify my top by taking out 1.5″ | 3.8cm from the top of the shoulders. To do this, I constructed the top as directed until I got to the step to cut out the neckline. I traced my desired neckline on the fabric and then I measured down 1.5″ | 3.8cm at the side fold (there is no side seam). I made a diagonal cut from this point up to the neckline. I was left with a triangle cutout that I used to create a facing around the armholes.
Shoulder cutout removed and used as facing for armholes
I also chose to use the woven neckline for the top because I wanted a lower neckline. When I cut out the pattern, I cut an additional 1″ |2.5cm strip the same length as the required square. I used this strip as the binding around the neckline. I did have a little bit of this strip remaining and I used this to help finish the facing at the armholes. I used the neckline cutout as a back facing and I really like the detail on the back of the shirt.
The last thing that I changed was to eliminate the sleeves for my knit version because the boxy fit creates cute little cap-like sleeves. As I said above, I used the excess that was cut off the shoulders as the facing for the sleeves. Because there are no shoulder seams, the excess triangle that I cut from the shoulders needed to be cut open so that I could stitch it to the arm opening. I matched the center of this elongated polygon with the top shoulder seam, right sides together, and stitched it to the arm opening. I finished the facing by turning it to the wrong side and stitching around the perimeter of the armhole and along the diagonal edges of the shoulder cutout. I wish I had gotten better pictures of this process because it is a bit hard to describe, but the video I recorded while doing it was blurry – oh well. I am really pleased with how this detail turned out and how it compliments the original design lines of the top.
As the weather cools, I’m looking forward to making more versions of the Xanthea Top. I have plans for a woven version with slightly puffy sleeves and I also like Liz’s idea of making it a sweatshirt with a hood. This is definitely a pattern that I will be coming back to often. Please let me know if you have any questions about my mods.
I finally managed to work on another scrap-busting project. I have seen Closet Core Patterns DIY Pouf floating around on Instagram, but I hadn’t given myself the push to try it out. I was hopeful that I would find ways to use some of my smaller scraps, as I had many plans for them. But as it typically goes, I have more ideas than time. I was also beginning to feel the weight of all my scraps. We live in a small house and I just don’t have the space to store unlimited amounts of little bits of fabric that –might– be able to be used someday.
I used the CIoset Core Pattern Pouf as a starting point. I’m not 100% sure why I didn’t just follow the pattern, but for some reason, I really wanted to try and make a square pouf. After reading the tutorial, I decided to take the elements of Heather’s pouf that I liked and make it my own. I liked the zipper so you could add more scraps as needed and so the pouf cover could be washed. I also liked the drawstring bag to hold the scraps. It’s not 100% necessary, but keeping all those little bits a little more contained seemed like a good idea.
I’d like to say that I had a full plan mapped out before I started, but that’s just not how I operate. I did have a general idea of how I wanted to make the pouf though, so I started to go through my larger scraps to find as much heavy-weight fabric as possible. I had a grey denim remnant, few pairs of old jeans, and some random pant legs. By laying out all the pieces that would work for the cover, I was able to come up with some dimensions to start with.
I knew I wanted a zipper with a drawstring bag inside to hold the scraps, but I didn’t want my zipper on the bottom because we have hardwood floors and I only had a metal zipper. I decided to put the zipper on one of the corners of the pouf. My zipper was just a bit shorter than the height I wanted to make the pouf so I had to add little fabric extensions to the ends of the zipper to make it work. You can see this detail in the photo below. You can also see how much more space there is to add more scraps!
The drawstring bag that I added will be helpful if I need to take off the cover, but my zipper opening is too small for it all to come out at once so I will still need to take the scraps out little by little. Oh well! At least I can wash it once someone around here spills something on it.
For the general design of the cover, I decided to go with a random layout that was dictated by the shapes of my scraps. At first, I thought about making a more geometric layout, but in the end, I just decided to go random. I was getting impatient with myself and I couldn’t decide on a more structured layout so I just got started and this is what I came up with. I’m pleased with the final layout, but I was hoping for a more square pouf. I realized after the fact that there is no extra structure to the sides of the pouf so no way to stop them from bulging out. I’m hoping that once I put more scraps in it will be a bit more square, but it’s not a big deal.
I didn’t manage to get as many process photos as I had hoped. I always have grand ideas of taking lots of process shots, but then I get to sewing and I forget. Or I only work on something for 10 minutes and it sits for a couple of days making it hard to remember and make the time for photos. But you can see that a little someone likes to play on it!
Have you made a scrap pouf? How did the process go for you? If you have any questions about the process I used please don’t hesitate to ask. I would love to help!
I have been thinking about making a dress version of the Lawrence Top for a while. I began with the idea of lengthening the tunic version and adding a wide ruffle at the bottom. I did the math, adjusted the pattern pieces, and selected fabric, but something was holding me back. The more I thought about my idea, the more I realized I couldn’t see myself wearing the final version. I loved the idea, but the design didn’t fit my wardrobe or lifestyle. I love the look of ruffles and frills, but I don’t necessarily like wearing them. I didn’t want to make something that I would only wear once or twice.
I put the idea on hold for a bit while I tried to decide what direction to go with it. When I found a piece of navy double gauze in my stash, my motivation for making a dress was renewed. I decided to blend the two views of the Lawrence Top and make an oversized shirt dress with a tie.
As I looked at the original pattern, I tried to think about what aspects of each view I wanted to use in the hacked dress. I wanted to use the shape and inseam pockets of the tunic version, but with shorter sleeves that could be rolled up if I wanted a different look. I also knew I wanted to incorporate the split hem from View B, but I wanted the hemline to be even.
Once I started laying out all the pieces on my fabric, I was able to work on more specific details of the design. My piece of fabric was 59″|150cm wide x 90″|229cm long. I began by switching the orientation of the original pattern pieces (to be oriented with the grain instead of cross-grain) so I could get more length. Based on the length of fabric I was able to get a dress that hits above the knee.
Adjusted pattern piece layout
I also wanted a little more volume to the dress, so I made the front and back panels wider. I didn’t change the width of the yoke and I was able to gather the panels more. I did make the yoke taller – making it 9”|23cm instead of 6”|15cm – to go with the proportions of the more oversized look.
The buttons are one of my favorite parts of the dress. I found these yellow, vintage buttons last summer and when I got them I had no project in mind. I just loved how all the different shades of yellow and different shapes went together. Once I started sewing the navy gauze, I remembered that I had the yellow buttons and I knew they would be the perfect fit for the dress. I love how they pop on the navy fabric and add a bit of whimsy to the dress.
While I was making the dress, I thought about various ways that it could be worn. I wanted to make sure that it worked in a variety of situations and seasons. The dress definitely feels fancier when it is tied at the waist, but it can also have a casual feel. I like how it feels flexible in its style. The dress layers well over leggings and it can be worn in the cooler months. And I discovered (after we took these pictures, of course) that it layers well over wide-leg culottes. Worn without the tie, it creates a very artist smock vibe which I really like. Wearing it untied, without pants, is also an option. I think it will be great to throw over my swimsuit when we head to the beach.
If you have made the Lawrence Top and/or tried hacking the pattern I would love to hear about it. Leave a comment or post and tag me on Instagram @goldfinch.limited #zwlawrencetop. I love seeing everyone’s makes!
