I’m thrilled to introduce my latest zero/minimal waste sewing pattern—the Pierce Shirt. This oversized button-up shirt nods to the classic button-up but features distinct details such as asymmetric pintucks, a deep curved hem, and a horizontal front yoke that set it apart and give the garment a modern feel. The interior seams are finished with run-and-flare seams and clean-finished seams to create a beautifully finished garment.
The pattern design utilizes zero-waste pattern drafting techniques and offers a wide range of sizes (21 to be exact!). The bust/chest measurements range from 30”-64” (76.2-162.6cm) and the hip measurements range from 32”-66” (81.3-167.6cm). While the pattern uses zero-waste drafting concepts, some sizes feature minimal waste to accommodate the extensive size range. Suggestions are included in the pattern for ways to use the minimal cutoffs produced. The pattern consists of a detailed instruction booklet and fully printable pattern layouts – print-at-home and Copyshop/A0 files are included, along with a projector file.
This pattern has been in the making for a long time. My first attempt at this design was over two years ago, and the goal was to design a shirt that could be casually thrown on over a t-shirt or tank when I got cold – something less than a cardigan or a jacket but light and still that provided warmth. The thrifted men’s linen button-ups that I used for this purpose were threadbare at the time, and I needed a replacement. I achieved that goal with my first attempt, but the pattern layout and sewing execution required a lot of development.
There have been many variations since and a lot of evolution on the “purpose” of the shirt, but the central concept of interlocking hem and sleeves has remained the same. As I began tweaking the design and making more samples, I grew to love wearing a button-up shirt on its own. I feel a sense of ease – a casual, put-together comfort – wearing this silhouette. And, yes, the shirt still works great as a light layer to keep warm in the evening.
At the beginning of the pattern’s development, I thought that grading and achieving a wide size range would be relatively simple. Oh, was I wrong. Just when I thought I had everything figured out, something else would come up. In the end, I’m so pleased with the final design. My samples have become closet staples, and I have more versions planned.
One thing that I love about this pattern and the pattern layout is how versatile it is. Different fabrics can create completely different looks—play with fabric weight and drape. For a more casual, everyday look, select cotton shirting or linen. If you want to make a more elevated garment, use a cupro or a silk/linen blend. You can also size down to make a slightly more fitted shirt.
Additionally, I have a few ideas for hacking the pattern that I would like to explore more in the coming months. The pattern layout and concept are pretty straightforward and once you understand how the pattern comes together you can also hack and adjust the pattern to create different pieces.
I want to thank my testing team for helping bring this pattern to life. When I say I couldn’t have done it without them, I mean it!! In the next week or so, I’m planning on sharing all of their excellent makes so you can get a glimpse, too. I know how helpful it is for me to see various versions when planning my projects, and I hope that it will benefit you. I also am planning a few video tutorials for some of the trickier bits of the sewing process. They will be posted to my YouTube channel when they are ready, and I will announce them on IG when they are ready.
Please let me know if you have any questions about anything – emily@goldfinch.limited
I’d first like to thank everyone for the warm welcome to the Lynn Vest. It feels good to have this pattern out in the world as fall is beginning to settle in. I know I’m looking forward to wearing layers as the weather gets cooler.
With the release of a new pattern I always like to show off the testers versions – not only as an appreciation of the hard work that they put in, but also to give you an idea of how the pattern looks on different people and in a variety of fabrics. It is helpful to be able to see someone wearing a similar size that you are considering making or see the garment in a fabric type that you may want to use. Below you will find each tester’s measurements, the size they made, what fabric was used, and a run down of any modifications that they may have made for the pattern. Everyone’s body measurements are listed in following format: Bust/Chest, Waist, Hips, Height.
As a note, during the testing period, we discovered that there was a bit too much ease at the waist/hips. Some testers had finished their garments at this point, while others were still working on theirs. Because of this, some people went back to bring in the side seam and a few people have plans to update theirs in the future.
Kerry | 36, 28, 40, 5’6” | Size B
Kerry’s Lynn Vest is made from a camel wool blend for the main fabric and a mystery upholstery/decor fabric for the lining. She chose to only use two of the pockets. Kerry has plans to make a version that is car coat or duster length.
Lucas | 39”, 36”, 40”, 6’2” | Size D
Lucas made their Lynn Vest out of light cotton denim (main fabric) and cotton shirting (lining). Lucas added 2” to the length of the vest to accommodate their height. They were in between sizes and choose to size up, but in retrospect they think sizing down would have been a better choice.
Amanda | 118cm, 100cm, 127cm | Size E
Amanda’s Lynn Vest is made from two thrifted pieces of woven fabric. She suspects that the main fabric is a cotton/linen blend and the lining is a poly/cotton blend. Both fabrics have quite a bit of drape. She didn’t make any modifications to the pattern.
Vathsala | 38”, 32”, 42”, 5’7” | Size C
Vathsala made her Lynn Vest from a light-medium weight textured cotton for the main fabric and a light-medium weight cotton lawn for the lining. She used leftover fabric from a previous project so she changed the layout the accommodate the fabric on hand. Because of this her collar is made from the lining fabric instead of the main fabric.
Courtney | 47”, 39”, 45”, 5’6” | Size E
Courtney made their Lynn Vest out of a thick cotton for the main fabric and a lighter weight denim/chambray for the lining. Courtney changed the pattern layout to accommodate the fabric that they had on hand. They drew the pattern pieces out on paper first so they would be able find places the pattern pieces would fit within the scrap fabric.
Fred | 107cm, 107cm, 112cm, 168cm | Size D
Fred’s Lynn Vest is made from cotton canvas for the main fabric (an old curtain!) and the lining is cotton poplin. Fred ended up bringing in the side seams by 1” after he was finished with the vest (this change has since been made to the pattern).
Anna | 42”, 32”, 42” | Size D
Anna used a mix of scraps to make her Lynn Vest. These scraps included a mix of heavy weight denim, wide whale corduroy, and hand woven cotton. Anna excluded in the interior pockets on her vest. Anna also took in side seams by an additional 1/2” per side, as she finished before the final pattern updates were made.
Amelia | 84cm, 70cm, 100cm | Size C
Amelia’s Lynn Vest is made from linen and a medium weight, upcycled cotton floral curtain. Due to the weight of her fabrics, she was unable to topstitch the vest by hand.
Jo | 46”, 48”, 58” | Size E and F
Jo made two Lynn Vest’s during the testing period. For the Size E version, she used linen and waxed cotton. Jo added 1/2” to the side panels and then tapered them so 1” was removed from the top of the side panel and 2” was added to the bottom. This resulted in a narrower waist and a wider hip. For the Size F version, she used linen and striped homespun cotton. She removed 1.125” from each side panel (this was prior to 1/2” being removed from each side panel for the final pattern).
Samy | 33”, 26”, 41”, 5’2” | Size C
Samy used medium weight canvas and a light cotton blend to make her Lynn Vest. She adjusted the size of some of the pockets. Samy also used a 5/8″ seam allowance at the side seam to bring the vest in a bit. She had cut the side panel pattern pieces to the original width and by increasing the seam allowance, she was able to bring the side panels in to the updated width. Increasing the side panel seam allowance is an easy way to adjust the fit of the vest.
Cayden | 36”, 27”, 36”, 5’ 9” | Size B
Cayden made her Lynn Vest from an upcycled tablecloth and thrifted heavy weight cotton gingham. Cayden combined the side panels so there was only one side panel per side. She also left off the collar and added ties to close the front. She also adjusted the size and quantity of the pockets.
Jacqui | 34”, 30”, 38”, 5’7” | Size B
Jacqui used linen for the main fabric and cotton for the lining of her Lynn Vest. She adjusted the pattern layout to accommodate her fabric width. She also used one of the pockets as a liner to a create sturdier pocket.
Mallory | 37″, 29″, 39″ | Size B
Mallory opted to quilt her Lynn Vest. She used a variety of fabrics to create the main fabric; including linen, cotton, sandwashed cotton crepe, viscose linen noil and hemp. For the lining, she uses a thrifted cotton sheet. She used an old flannel sheet for the batting. When topstitching the vest, she had some difficulty due to all the layers, but she used some needle nose pliers to help pull the need through.
Mandy | 44”, 37”, 49”, 5’9” | Size D
Mandy made her Lynn Vest from 12 oz. denim (main) and light ticking (lining). She extended her collar to the hem since she had extra fabric. Mandy also used topstitching details along the pocket edges.
Rose | 49”, 45”, 54”, 5’6” | Size F
Rose made this (hand-sewn!) Lynn Vest for her partner, Christine. Rose used African waxed cotton and boiled wool. She tapered the side panels by increasing the seam allowance at the underarms. She also adjusted the width and orientation of a few of the pockets.
Rebecca | 38”, 29”, 40”, 5’6” | Size C
Rebecca’s Lynn Vest is made from Nevada linen for the main fabric and cotton canvas for the lining. She adjusted the pattern layout to work with the width her fabric. She needed to cut the collar and a few pockets from a separate piece of fabric.
Allison | 48”, 41”, 51” | Size F
Allison made her Lynn Vest from canvas and a cotton sheet. Allison finished her vest before the width of the side panels were adjusted. She had a great idea to add an inverted box pleat at the side panel to bring in waist and create a little flare at the hips. This fit adjustment worked really well for her curves. Adding the pleat at the underarm is another easy way to adjust the fit and it adds a nice visual detail.
If you have any questions about size and fit while planning your Lynn Vest, don’t hesitate to reach out. I would be happy to help you figure out any potential fitting issues. And, thank you again to all the testers! I’m so appreciative of all the support during the pattern making process.
Every time I go through the testing phase of pattern design, I’m hopeful but also nervous about how the process will go. It can be a bit nerve-wracking having your work looked at for the first time after you have been staring at it for months. One of the points of pattern testing is having help finding any errors in the instructions and drafting but also seeing the finished garment through the eyes of other makers besides myself. I love seeing all the different types of fabric used, modifications made to suit one’s body & preferences, and overall interpretation of the design and how it is styled.
During the testing phase, it was discovered that the sleeves for view 1 were too short. You will notice that for some testers their long sleeves are a bit short but still wearable. Some testers took this as an opportunity to make a few mods to the sleeve finishes. The sleeve length has since been adjusted.
Below is a look at the testers’ makes. I have included all the testers’ measurements, the version made, and if they had any potential plans on how to use any remaining fabric from the project.
Ambrosia made View 1 out of a lightweight slubby cotton plaid. She made size C in the D-cup range and lengthened the dress by 3″. Ambrosia plans to wear the Eddie Smock not only as a dress but as a layering piece and a duster/light jacket. Due to the fabric width that she started with, she had very minimal fabric remaining and will probably use the scraps for stuffing.
Michele was my first test fitter. She was instrumental in helping me through the early phases of hashing out the B-Cup & D-Cup ranges. Michele made two versions and with each, she went “off-road” a bit to make the garment work for her. Here she made View 1 in the B-cup range (even though she is a D-cup) to see how much the garment would rise in the front. It did rise, but she is not bothered by this. Michele included plenty of personalized details throughout the smock by adding details to the pockets and the neck facing.
Christina made View 1, size C in the D-Cup range without any modifications. She used light-to-midweight cotton to make her version. Christina used bias binding to finish her sleeves since they ended up being a bit short for her. Her version shows how view 2 sleeves would look with view 1 body. Christina plans to wear her version as a dress, but also as a duster/layering piece. Christina made a Pearl Head Scarf by Spaghetti Western Sewing with her remaining fabric.
Rebecca used 5.3oz softened linen to make View 2. She didn’t make any modifications to the pattern layout. When deciding how wide to make her sleeve openings, Rebecca made sure they were wide enough that she could easily layer a long sleeve shirt under the tunic. Rebecca plans to use her remnant fabric to make a Thread & Sprout nature top and/or pillowcase.
Jess made View 1, size H in the D-cup range. She didn’t make any modifications to the pattern. Jess used a poly-viscose to make her dress. Her pockets ended up being a bit short so that was something that I was able to adjust in the final pattern layout. She had a long, thin piece of fabric remaining that she thought could be made into a variety of accessories – a hairband, scrunchies, hair ribbon, wrapped on chunky hoop earrings, etc.
Bean made two versions of view 3, each with a different sleeve length. She was able to play with the pattern layout and made adjustments to make a version with 3/4 sleeves and one with long sleeves. I love that she was able to take the concept of the pattern and tweak it to work for her preferences and the fabric that she had on hand. Bean had a great idea of making a removable collar with some of the remaining fabric.
Nele made View 3 out of a very flowy, lightweight fabric. She made size B in the B-cup range without any modifications. While the shifty fabric was a bit more difficult to cut out, the finished blouse is lovely. Nele had minimal fabric remaining as she had previously used some of the fabric and she was able to get the pattern layout in the remaining piece.
Frankie made View 1, Size C, in the B-cup range. They used yarned-dyed cotton to make their version. Frankie only made modifications to adjust the layout to accommodate the slightly smaller fabric width. Frankie plans to use the garment as a layering piece. They had remaining fabric from the total cut and have already made a Pearl Head Scarf by Spaghetti Western Sewing.
Jini Kai made View 2 out of lightweight linen. She made size E in the D-Cup range without any modifications. She chose to make her side ties from the remaining bias binding instead of using the provided pattern piece for the side ties. Jini Kai had minimal fabric remaining once the project was complete. She recommends making patchwork clothing with the scraps a la this patchwork clothing tutorial from Elbe Textiles.
Eowyn made View 1 in size B, B-cup range. She used a piece of thrifted yarn-dyed cotton plaid to make her dress. Due to the shorter sleeves during the time of testing, Eowyn decided to finish her sleeves with bias-binding ties. She also chose to position her patch pockets in the front of the dress instead of on the sides. Eowyn plans to use any remnant fabric for toy-making projects.
Erika made View 1 out of fine corduroy fabric. She made size A in the B-cup range. She adjusted the layout slightly by placing the side tie pattern piece in the horizontal direction because her fabric was only 43″ wide. Erika had 11.5″ of fabric remaining and she is considering making a fanny pack with it.
Beth chose to make View 1 out of heavier-weight linen. She sewed a size D in the B-Cup range. She changed the length to accommodate her height and also moved the pockets up to better work for her. Beth is going to wear the dress for a bit and decide if she wants to shorten the ties some and/or add more buttons.
Amanda made View 3 out of cotton shirting. She made size E in the D-Cup range. She didn’t make any adjustments to the pattern layout. Amanda decided to leave off the buttons for now and use the blouse as a layering piece. I also love how she styled the blouse by crossing over the front panels and tucking them in. Amanda plans on incorporating the small amount of remaining fabric into a patchwork project that she is currently working on.
Laurie used a heavier-weight mystery fabric from their stash to make View 1. They chose to make size D in the D-Cup range. Laurie’s measurements put them directly between two sizes in the bust. They chose to size down and in the end, they think that sizing up may be the better option, especially in a heavier fabric. Laurie plans to use this Eddie Smock as a duster. With the small amount of remaining fabric, they thought adding a ruffle or collar to the smock would be a good option.
Jeanne chose to make View 2 out of cotton lawn. She made size D in the B-cup range. Jeanne adjusted the length of the overall smock (shortened by 4″) and the length of the sleeves by 2″. Due to her length adjustments, she was able to make her pockets out of one piece instead of piecing two together. She also positioned her patch pockets in the front of the tunic inside of the sides.
Chris made View 1 in size C, B-cup range. She chose a cotton/linen blend with a fairly loose weave. She adjusted the overall length and the sleeve length to accommodate her height, but the sleeves still end up being a bit short for her. Her sleeves ended up being 3/4 length with bias bound placket and edge. Chris will use the remaining fabric for pocket facings, etc.
Andrea reused an old linen bedsheet to make her version of the Eddie Smock. She sewed her version in a size D using the B-Cup range. Andrea used 3/4 length sleeves and chose to leave them un-gathered. Andrea experimented with different ways to tie her smock.
Lucy used lightweight denim to make View 2 of the Eddie Smock. She sewed a size D in the B-cup range, with 4″ of length to accommodate her height. Lucy plans to wear the smock as a utility type of garment and she chose to include visible topstitching to enhance this look. She had about a 4″ wide strip of fabric remaining and she plans on using it for patchwork projects.
Dani made View 2, size E in the D-cup range. She used a cotton bedsheet as a toile and plans to use it as a painting smock and she plans on adding 4 large buttons to close it over her clothes while painting, etc. Dani didn’t make any adjustments to the pattern layout. Dani is considering making a denim version for gardening with extra pockets. She plans on making more continuous bias binding with her remaining fabric.
I hope seeing all the testers’ versions is helpful when you are planning your own version. While the Eddie Smock is not intended to be an overly fit garment, it is helpful to review the finished garment measurements and make adjustments as needed. Please don’t hesitate to reach out to me via email if you have questions about selecting your size – emily@goldfinch.limited.
Once again, thank you to all my amazing testers! Going back through all the photos has me feeling so grateful for everyone who is so willing to help make sewing patterns better.
I try to make some kind of Christmas gift for my family every year. Some years the gifts are more elaborate than others. Sometimes I have an idea well before Christmas, other years it feels more last minute. I’m sure if you have made handmade gifts you know this feeling well. And even though the official gift-giving season is over, for now, I thought I would talk a bit about the gifts that I made this year because really any time of year can be a time to give a handmade gift to a family member, a friend, or even yourself. Luckily, this year I managed to not only have an idea, but I had “plenty” of time to get it done. I say “plenty” because I did have lots of time to get the gifts done, but I still felt a bit of pressure – such is the nature of working in Santa’s workshop.
When Helen’s Closet released their pattern for the Sam Apron (free when you signup for their newsletter), I was hooked. For years I’ve been telling myself that I need to make myself a full apron – I had been sporadically wearing a half waist apron – and this was the perfect opportunity to finally get it done. I thought it would make the perfect gift for my family members as many are great home chefs and/or work in workshops where an apron would be readily used.
After reviewing the fabric requirements, I ordered some heavyweight linen hoping that I would be able to adjust the pattern to work with the width and yardage that I purchased. Since I was making aprons for a variety of people – different heights and sizes – I knew I needed to figure out a way that I could adjust the pattern so I won’t have a bunch of random pieces of leftover fabric. When I ordered the fabric I did not have a full plan yet, I was just hoping that I would be able to figure something out easily.
The pattern provides you with very helpful guidance on selecting a size. Because I was making these for people who were not standing in front of me, I needed to make some guesses. When selecting the sizes, I also wanted to take into account my fabric length and width so I would be able to maximize my fabric. Fortunately, I was able to divide the sizes of 6 individuals into 3 apron widths, i.e. 2 aprons at 31″ wide, 2 aprons at 33″ wise and 2 at 36″ wide. For the length, I decided to make them all the same by dividing the fabric width of 57″ in half and cutting the aprons out on the cross-grain. This allowed me to get 2 aprons for each width that I needed. This also meant that the aprons ended up being a bit short.
To solve this problem, I dug into my linen scrap collection with the idea of adding scrappy patchwork at the bottom of the aprons to make up for the missing length. Past me must have been planning for this because I found some already pieced-together linen that happened to be just about the sizes I needed. Needless to say, I was very excited about this find. It ended up being a huge time saver! I just sewed these patchwork strips at the bottom of the aprons and made the lengths different based on everyone’s height. This solved my length issue perfectly.
The next decision was to decide how to use the bib cutouts. I knew that I wanted to incorporate them into the apron somehow. For a bit, I thought of using them to lengthen the aprons, but that wasn’t going to work. Then I started playing around with various pocket ideas. The original pattern comes with ample pockets and I wanted to make sure the ones I made did too. In the end, I made a patch pocket out of the cutouts. I sewed the cutouts right-sides together, leaving a small opening so I could turn them right-side out. Once turned out and pressed, I had a nice lined patch pocket made for the apron offcuts. I sewed down the top edge and added a little indigo tag to each pocket.
I used more scrap linen for the top pocket and the towel loop – which by the way is an amazing addition to any apron! I also made it easier on myself and used twill tape for both the cutout finishing edge and the straps. I would have been able to piece enough scrap linen together to make the straps, but that would have increased my time spent by a lot.
In the end, I am very pleased with the outcome and so are the recipients. I even remember to wear mine while cooking – mostly! I would highly recommend the Sam Apron pattern – for yourself or as a gift. I enjoyed the process of taking a pattern and reimagining it as a zero-waste pattern. This one was simple and easy to do and I look forward to challenging myself more this year with this kind of work. I hope to share more of this in the coming months. If you have done the same, I would love to hear about it!
Liz Hayward from The Craft of Clothes recently released a zero-waste t-shirt pattern – the Xanthea Top. Liz proposed a pattern swap with our latest patterns, as t-shirts and overalls are a perfect combo. I’m not quite done with the Simone Overalls pattern, but I’m looking forward to styling the Xanthea Top with my finished overalls and seeing Liz’s version of both together. It was also perfect timing, as I have been wanting to make some basics for myself and tees were first on my list.
The Xanthea Top is very versatile, as it is designed to be used with knit or woven fabrics and it is drafted up to a 70″ bust. The top has a fun, unique construction, and a slightly boxy fit. The final top hangs on the bias so it has a nice drape. It also has options for short sleeves or long sleeves. Liz provides a printable mockup of the top so you can fully understand the construction before you get started.
Short-sleeved version with neckline for knit fabric
Long Sleeve version with neckline for woven fabric
I decided I wanted to play with and highlight the unique design lines created on the front of the top. It has been a while since I made a handstitched garment so I was excited to jump in again with the Xanthea top. My goal was to use mock flat-felled seams for the body and finish the neckline with a more stretchable stitch. I made a few minor changes to the overall design; including using the woven neckline for the knit version, omitting the sleeves, and taking out a bit at the shoulders.
I made a size 10 based on my body measurements and I’m very happy with the fit. I also made a version out of woven fabric in the same size and while it does fit, I think I may size up for future versions made with woven fabric as it does pull a bit in the shoulder area when I cross my arms. I’m not sure if this is because of my fabric choice or the size, but I will experiment with that further.
The original pattern does not have shoulder seams, but I decided to slightly modify my top by taking out 1.5″ | 3.8cm from the top of the shoulders. To do this, I constructed the top as directed until I got to the step to cut out the neckline. I traced my desired neckline on the fabric and then I measured down 1.5″ | 3.8cm at the side fold (there is no side seam). I made a diagonal cut from this point up to the neckline. I was left with a triangle cutout that I used to create a facing around the armholes.
Shoulder cutout removed and used as facing for armholes
I also chose to use the woven neckline for the top because I wanted a lower neckline. When I cut out the pattern, I cut an additional 1″ |2.5cm strip the same length as the required square. I used this strip as the binding around the neckline. I did have a little bit of this strip remaining and I used this to help finish the facing at the armholes. I used the neckline cutout as a back facing and I really like the detail on the back of the shirt.
The last thing that I changed was to eliminate the sleeves for my knit version because the boxy fit creates cute little cap-like sleeves. As I said above, I used the excess that was cut off the shoulders as the facing for the sleeves. Because there are no shoulder seams, the excess triangle that I cut from the shoulders needed to be cut open so that I could stitch it to the arm opening. I matched the center of this elongated polygon with the top shoulder seam, right sides together, and stitched it to the arm opening. I finished the facing by turning it to the wrong side and stitching around the perimeter of the armhole and along the diagonal edges of the shoulder cutout. I wish I had gotten better pictures of this process because it is a bit hard to describe, but the video I recorded while doing it was blurry – oh well. I am really pleased with how this detail turned out and how it compliments the original design lines of the top.
As the weather cools, I’m looking forward to making more versions of the Xanthea Top. I have plans for a woven version with slightly puffy sleeves and I also like Liz’s idea of making it a sweatshirt with a hood. This is definitely a pattern that I will be coming back to often. Please let me know if you have any questions about my mods.
I decided I “needed” a retro style, drawstring backpack. I’m 38 weeks pregnant and I felt that it was the only kind of bag that was going to be useful for quick trips out and about. I love my over the should bags and larger totes, but the straps tend to get in the way when you are babywearing.
I have seen more and more of the retro style backpack bags with modern updates lately. Some are beautifully crafted from leather and others from fabric. I thought I could scour the thrift shops to see what I could find, but that was quickly ruled out when I realized how much walking could be involved (although I will still keep my eyes open for one every time I go to the thrift store).
I began to research what I knew I could do…sew. I searched for different DIY backpack sewing patterns to see if there was anything that would work. I came across many different patterns (I really liked this one and this one) and I decided I could use the concepts from a variety of styles to come up with a simple pattern for myself.
The next part was more exciting and eye opening. Materials! What did I have on hand to make this bag. Could I make it completely from materials I had in my stash? I’m not talking about pretty fabric I have collected over the years with the intent of someday making something out of it; I’m talking about scraps that I have laying around from previous projects. I also have a stash of old clothes that could have gone to the thrift store, but I kept because I either liked the fabric or some component of the item seemed like it could be useful in the future. These reclaimed materials would be the base of my DIY backpack.
I know this sounds like I’ve got this huge hoarding problem, but really all this fits in one big plastic tub so its not that bad! I love that I can go to this stash and find bits and pieces that can be used to create something new, useful and beautiful.
With my backpack ideas swirling through my head, I went to my stash to see what I had. I knew I had some thicker fabric that I could use for the outer shell and I had a lots of pretty bits that I could create a lining. I was surprised when I found a pair of my husband’s cargo shorts. One of the pockets had a zipper pouch and a snapped pocket. Perfect for the front pocket of the backpack. (Although, now I owe my husband another pair of cargo shorts because apparently they were only in my stash pile because they needed a new button…oops!!)
Once I sorted out which materials could be used, I began to take measurements and think about construction. Once I figured out what needed to be sewn together when, the process went pretty quickly. The one thing that I still need to figure out is how to make the straps adjustable. I could buy a backpack hardware kit or the likes or I could see what I have laying around that might work. Currently a safety pin is doing the job.
What really inspires me about this project are the endless possibilities of upcycled and reclaimed materials. Giving new life to something that people don’t want anymore. Going to the thrift store and looking at clothes, not just for what they are, but what they can become is a very exciting. It really keeps your creative juices flowing.
Time is an interesting thing when you are working in a product based business. People want things now. Instant gratification! I understand; you see something beautiful and the desire to hold it, touch it, use it is immediate. But, how does it look from the makers perspective? Coming up with original, creative ideas takes time. Making the first, second and maybe third prototype takes time. Once you are happy with the final product you need to photograph it and market it…more time.
It’s hard to be on the maker end. The one man factory as such. People are starting to see the value of handmade goods, but you can still feel like you need to be working faster to keep up with all the beautiful things you see on Instagram or Etsy. How is it that everyone else’s hands seem to work so much faster than yours?
(The start of a little something using upcycled cotton yarn that will be naturally dyed once finished)
How do you keep your focus and not compare yourself to others? This is not a new dilemma. It’s something that others have talked about at length. It comes back to the idea that I want to look at others work and feel inspired, not the overwhelmed. The maker community is so supportive, but sometimes the first thought is to compare yourself. It’s hard to remember that through the lens of a camera people can make their lives seem completely different. You don’t know what’s going on in the background, just as they don’t know what’s going on in the background of yours.
As more and more people begin to talk about this balance of work and home life, it becomes a little easier to give yourself the time and space to figure out how it works in your own individual life. Giving yourself grace. What gets done, gets done. Being able to focus on the “why” and not the “should” or the “have to”. So, I’m going to make myself some more tea and a few lists of all the ideas in my brain and attempt to give myself some space to focus. And remember, one step at a time!
How do you manage balancing work, time and comparison?
I have been feeling like I have a million ideas in my head lately. There are so many things I want to make; either original work, trying out a new knitting or sewing pattern, or hacking one of my already owned patterns to make it new and different. I’m trying to balance this with thinking of ways to get my business and my work more visibility (oh, and take care of my family). All of these ideas and thoughts have made it hard to focus. Where do I start? What do I want and/or need the most? Does someone in my family need/or want something? What would customers be interested in? What can I do to get my name out there in a world that is so bombarded with info everyday? I could go on and on.
I want to create useful, beautiful things for myself, my family and others. I would love to be able to help provide for my family through my work. My making provides me with an outlet, both creative and physical. If I’m not doing something with my hands when I’m still, I can feel out-of-place. This is difficult when my mind has so many ideas swirling though it and I have a hard time focusing on my work. Recently, I have finished a few works in progress and it feels nice to have those completed and ready to be listed on Etsy. Clearing my mind and hands of these couple of projects has left some space for my other goals.
I have also started work on a small quilt using hand dyed fabric. It is going to be hand quilted and I’m really looking forward to the slow, meditative work of stitching. I would love for this quilt to be the basis for future work that I could sell. I have been greatly inspired by the work of sugarhouseworkshop.com, folkfibers.com, and saltandstill.com. The work of these women has left me wanting to learn so many new skills to further the depth of my work.
For my making, it is a work in progress, everyday. Making a decision and focusing, knowing that there is no wrong decision. I want to be intentional about my making choices and not just jump into something because I think I have to. I want to make things that will bring myself and others joy.
A few years ago when I started sewing for myself, the motivation was based on the enjoyment of the making process and the speed at which I could have a completed project. I was a knitter and at the time very slow, but I knew the joy of wearing something that you have made for yourself with your own two hands. With sewing, I could create something much quicker, almost instant gratification. It was a magical discovery!
At the time, I knew nothing of the slow fashion movement. I did know that I didn’t like to shop because I was not happy with the ever changing styles and lack of good fit. I hated spending a lot of money on something I could tell was going to fall apart after a couple of wears and I couldn’t afford the really good stuff.
Once I began to sew and knit in much more earnest, I began to follow along with the conversation of slow fashion. I began to understand why I had such a dislike for fast fashion. There was a reason the clothing would fall apart so fast and why it seemed like I could never keep up with the latest and greatest. I began to see that I wanted to know more about where my clothing came from and that I wanted to hold on to what I already had longer. Thrifting and mending took on a whole new meaning, not just that I couldn’t spend the money on new clothes, but that I wanted things to last and to give a new home to items that had a lot of life left in them.
I started looking at my crafting practices and the materials that I was using. I was really thinking about how I would use a garment once it was made and how does fit into my lifestyle. What was I most comfortable in and how I do I like to wear clothes? When I really started to think about this and pay attention to what I already had, it helped to reduce the desire to just cast on the next cute sweater or cut out a cute top. The question was will I wear this regularly? Do I have something similar? Would my time be better spent thrifting or fixing something to fit that hole in my wardrobe?
All of this also began to form other desires for my making. I wanted to participate in the slow fashion movement beyond just for myself. Could I take my skills and create things others could wear and love too? This is something that I have been contemplating over the last few months.
Recently, I was able to finish up two pieces that are the beginning of this undertaking. A simple tunic dress made from linen that I dyed myself. This tunic dress is flattering for a variety of body styles and can be worn on a variety of occasions.
The second piece is a cotton scarf/wrap that is a perfect transition piece for the spring. I dyed the cotton and used Shibori resist techniques to create the pattern on the fabric. This piece also has a variety of uses, from scarf to wrap to swaddle blanket and nursing cover, etc. Creating things that have multiple uses means that our resources go further.
You can check out both of these items in my shop. Custom orders are always welcome, just let me know.
In my last post, I talked about surface design and the struggles I was running into. What I had neglected to do during my weeks worth of work was take more process pictures, so I don’t have pictures from every step of the following process…lesson learned. I was concentrating on the end product and I was not thinking about the process as much as I should have been.
Through the process of making, we are learning so many things. What would make the project work better next time? Would I do any of this again or is there a better/different way? Is this the direction I want the project to go or do I have a new idea/inspiration? The list could go on and on about what you learn from the process.
During this particular dyeing session, I was trying to create some Itajime Shibori with some tea towels dyed in a red onion skin bath. After seeing some pictures in books, I assumed that I knew what I was doing. I mean, how hard can it be?!?! Well, I learned the hard way that I should have done some more research on the actual techniques of Shibori resist dyeing. My biggest problem was that I had not folded the fabric correctly (in a accordion fashion) so the dye did not take to the fabric the way that I wanted it to. I also had some tea towels that I had just put in the dye pot to get overall color and the result was very uneven.
In the end, I was not happy with the red onion skin dye color which resulted in a muddy brown. They just looked like dirty cotton tea towels. I’m sure if the intended use was not a towel or if the color had been even, it would have been ok. I was having a really hard time with the thought of drying my hands on a towel that looked like mud had been wiped all over them. I decided to put the tea towels in an iron bath to see how that would modify the color. As a result, the towels turned out to be an olive green.
I was still not entirely happy with the towels and I couldn’t pin point why. I stared at them for a few days hoping some kind of inspiration would hit me. I was doing some research on zero waste sewing patterns for another project, when I came across this post from A Verb for Keeping Warm by Cal Patch and this post from Sew Obsessed. I began to wonder if I could do something like this with my tea towels and some stash fabric. The design process began all over again. Measuring, cutting, ironing, piecing, and hoping that something would come of this.
The end product is not perfect by any means, but I learned a lot during all the steps of the project. I take away many more ideas for future projects, during which I’m sure I will make more mistakes and learn more. It’s a cycle and I’m learning to embrace all parts of it, as you get so much from each step.
I began to research what I knew I could do…sew. I searched for different DIY backpack sewing patterns to see if there was anything that would work. I came across many different patterns (
I know this sounds like I’ve got this huge hoarding problem, but really all this fits in one big plastic tub so its not that bad! I love that I can go to this stash and find bits and pieces that can be used to create something new, useful and beautiful.
Once I sorted out which materials could be used, I began to take measurements and think about construction. Once I figured out what needed to be sewn together when, the process went pretty quickly. The one thing that I still need to figure out is how to make the straps adjustable. I could buy a backpack hardware kit or the likes or I could see what I have laying around that might work. Currently a safety pin is doing the job.
