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Introducing the Lettie Skirt

As a person who has rarely worn skirts in the past, it surprises me that I have become a full-on skirt convert. Maybe it’s always been the type of skirt that has kept me from wearing them much. I’ve never been drawn to gathered, tiered skirts that have been popular over the years and are so easy to make. I always feel like I have too much fabric at my waist and never feel quite like myself in those styles. But this past spring, I strongly desired to design a skirt. I wanted it to be something I felt like myself in – a skirt for pants people, a versatile piece to be worn and styled in multiple ways.

And now, after months of work, many samples, and lots of skirt-wearing, I’m pleased to introduce you to the Lettie Skirt, a minimal-waste six-panel skirt. The Lettie Skirt is a midi-length six-panel skirt featuring a partial button placket with integrated buttonholes, an elastic back, and flat piping details. The skirt’s design creates a versatile, everyday staple with subtle details that elevate the garment. 

The Lettie Skirt PDF pattern comes with three different pattern files – printable pattern layouts (print-at-home and copyshop/A0), dimensioned pattern layouts to draft directly to the fabric, and projector files – along with a detailed instruction booklet. There are 20 sizes, ranging from waist: 25”-58” (63.5-147.3cm) and hip: 33”-66” (83.8-167.6cm).

During the design development phase of the Lettie Skirt, I spent a lot of time looking at inspo photos on Pinterest. I was searching for a feeling – a vibe of a skirt and outfit – not necessarily an exact silhouette to put my spin on. I wanted something that was not overly feminine – again, a skirt for pants people. I wanted to feel the same ease I feel when wearing this skirt as I do when wearing my favorite pair of pants. I also knew I wanted the skirt to be something that could be worn just as easily with a tee shirt and tennis shoes as it could with a button-up and loafers.

After establishing a general idea for the zero-waste pattern layout, it became time to think about the details. And the Lettie Skirt is all about the details – flat piping, integrated buttonholes on the partial button placket, front pleats, and a front slit – all with clean interior finishes.

I’ve been drawn to the idea of integrated buttonholes for a long time. I love the idea that they are built into the garment. I knew that to include something like this in the skirt’s design, I would need elements that the integrated buttonholes could be sewn into. That is where the flat piping comes in. Not only does it provide texture and visual interest to the skirt, but it is an integral part of the buttonhole construction.

These buttonholes are the most complicated part of the construction process (video tutorial). I sewed many samples to determine the best way to integrate functioning buttonholes into the seamline. Every time I sew up a sample, I get a little thrill that the process actually works.

The Lettie Skirt is a slow and satisfying sewing project. The construction details and clean finished seams come together to make a beautifully finished garment. My samples have become wardrobe staples that can be styled in a multitude of ways. This summer that has entailed a tee shirt and tennis shoes, but with cooler weather approaching, I’m looking forward to exploring the new styling options.

I’m looking forward to seeing more Lettie Skirts out in the world. Use the hashtags #LettieSkirt and #GoldfinchLettieSkirt and tag me @goldfinchtextilestudio if you post to social media. If you have any questions about the Lettie Skirt, please don’t hesitate to reach out to me – emily@goldfinch.limited.

Happy sewing!

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Petrea Blouse by Liz Haywood

Liz Haywood recently released her latest pattern, the Petrea Dress and Blouse. Both views feature a Peter Pan collar with pin-tucks at the front and back, a button front, and a semi-circular back yoke. The fit is intended to be loose fitting and flare out from the tucks. The dress version is zero-waste, features inseam pockets, and the blouse version is low-waste and has patch pockets. I have been excited about this pattern ever since Liz began showing previews of it last year. The way in which she incorporated the curved collar into the zero-waste layout is so intriguing to me and the pin-tuck detail elevates the blouse without being too fussy or frilly.

I had the pleasure of sewing up the blouse version for myself. I made size 36 as my bust is 36″. The pattern recommends selecting your size based on your bust measurement and sizing up if you are in between sizes. I did make a few adjustments to the pattern based on my preferences and my fabric length.

I decided to shorten my version for a couple of reasons. The first reason is that I am 5’4″ tall so the finished length of 26 3/8″ was longer than I wanted for this particular garment. After drafting my length changes to trace paper I realized that the fabric that I intended to use was the exact length I needed once the blouse was shortened – it felt meant to be. I used Japanese Cotton Double Gauze in lavender from Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics. This pattern is a great opportunity to use narrower-width fabric that is sometimes more difficult to use with zero-waste patterns.

The pattern offers two ways to transfer the pattern to your fabric, you can print the pattern pieces or draft them yourself directly to the fabric or to paper first. Liz does provide the templates for the curves and the tuck positions. I chose to draft my pattern on Swedish Tracing Paper first. The instructions walk you through this process and the only thing that I adjusted was the length. I shortened the given dimensions for the front and back pieces by 4″.

Once my size was transferred to tracing paper, I was able to layout my fabric as directed and cut out the pieces. I managed to make one cutting mistake at this point. I accidentally cut the back into two pieces instead of leaving the piece whole (I just sewed it back together with a small seam allowance). The instructions are clear, but I would definitely recommend reading through them a couple of times before cutting just to make sure you understand how to cut the pieces correctly.

I took my time while sewing up the blouse as there are a few steps that need a little extra attention. Pin-tucks are something that I have never sewn before and with Liz’s template, they were a breeze to mark and sew. I appreciate that the finished width was provided so you can check to make sure your piece is going to fit into the collar. Liz also provides tips for fixing your tucks if your pieces ended up not being the right width. I also enjoyed the process of sewing in the back yoke. I love how all the pieces come together to make a whole and the hand-sewn interior yoke looks so nice and clean.

Because I shortened the blouse, I decided against adding the pockets. I will save these rectangular cutoffs for a future project, although I did consider turning them into bias binding to finish the neckline. Once the blouse was finished I chose to add faux raglan seams as directed in the instructions to reduce the amount of fabric that the armholes. I made sure to first baste these seams to check their position before sewing them in. I’m glad I took the time to add these seams as they help the blouse lay better at my shoulders and add a cute design element to the blouse.

The Petrea Blouse was such a pleasure to sew. Slowing down and taking my time to make something a bit more intricate was a good change of pace. I love a zero/minimal waste pattern that is not obviously zero-waste. The details of the Petrea Dress and Blouse, from the pattern layout to the sewing construction, make for a fun and satisfying project and finished garment!

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Lawrence Top Tester Recap

I wanted to put together a special post to highlight my testers final garments. I would not have been able to complete the Lawrence Top sewing pattern without their wonderful help. I really enjoyed working with these women and seeing their finished garments makes me very happy. Thank you again for all your help!

What is great about the pattern is it’s versatility; not only in how you wear the garment, but also how it can work with different types and sizes of fabric. Seeing all the tester versions next to each other really highlights how flexible this pattern is.


Andrea made View B in a lightweight viscose from her stash. Due to the size of the fabric, she didn’t make the low/high hemline. She also used a different piece of lightweight fabric for the interior yoke. Both of these mods are great places to change up the pattern if you have less fabric than recommended. If you click through on her post, you can see her pattern pieces all cut and laid out, along with the very minimal waste she has when finished.


Eli made View A in a more structured gingham cotton. I love how she styled the top in a variety of ways; over jeans, layered with a cozy scarf, and open as a jacket/cardigan. I really enjoy wearing oversized button-up shirts over tank tops, so this will definitely be my go to way to wear the tunic this spring.


Sarah made View A in viscose rayon. She used a wide cut of fabric and was able to lay out her pattern pieces with the fabric grain, as apposed to cross-grain that the pattern calls for. The top is wonderfully drapey and looks good open or closed.


Rebecca made View A in a crisp, white linen. Rebecca styles the tunic with and without a turtleneck showing that the top can be worn throughout many seasons. Rebecca has plans to make another tunic, but making it a bit narrower by adjusting the width of the front and back panels. She also mentioned the idea of modding the pattern into a dress and now I’ve been thinking about ways to make one for myself.


Rose made View B out of a beautiful piece of linen. She made size 2 as her bust size fits right on the lower end of the size range. I love how she styled the cropped top with cozy linen pants. I can’t wait to see her tunic version.


Michelle (@zoetemeyer) made View A in a drapey rayon. Due to the size of fabric she had, she rearranged the pattern pieces and ended up making a longer, narrower version of the top, with a low/high split hemline. She also omitted the seam facing details and instead used this leftover fabric to test her buttonholes. It’s nice to see how she took the pattern pieces and moved them all around the fabric she had to make it work.


Elana (@the_solstice_studio) made a View B of the top. She had a lot of wonderful ideas to mod/hack the pattern: “I thought of a number of ways to use excess fabric or mistakes to keep the top zero waste including ruffles, a tied bow at the front, sleeve details, making an even longer top that’s actually a dress (I fantasized about a dress version of option B the entire time I worked on it, cinched at the waist with a ribbon made from excess fabric or a belt), or even longer sleeves for a winter version of option B.”


Thank you again to my testers! I hope seeing these finished tops gives everyone some inspiration and I look forward to seeing many more finished Lawrence Tops. I would love to see not only your finished garment, but also your process – post on Instagram using #zwlawrencetop and #goldfinchlimited.

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Focus 2018

With the New Year fast approaching, I have been thinking about all the endless possibilities 2018 has to offer. 2017 has been both very joyful and very difficult. Looking back of course the joy totally overrode the difficult, but I’m very much looking forward to new beginnings.

I’m not one for resolutions, but I do like the idea of a word to help guide your intentions for the year. My word for 2018 is focus. I feel like I have a million ideas and goals in my brain, but sometimes that just leads to an overwhelming feeling. I want to focus more directly on how to achieve my goals and not let the extra stuff get in the way. Focus on my direction and my family’s and no one else’s.

Some of this means trying out new tools, like a bullet journal to help record and plan my thoughts. I’m just starting this and I already feel like it could be very helpful to my sometimes scattered mom brain. Although I have to be careful not to fall down the hole of feeling like the journal needs to be something fancy. It’s a tool to help make my work fancy.

I also want to put myself and my work out in the world more. I would like to be able to participate is a few local artist/craft fairs. Many of them are juried and the thought of being judged has me a little nervous. Putting yourself out there is hard, but I’m looking forward to focusing on my goals and not my nervousness to achieve those goals.

Sometimes the day to day of trying to get everyone feed and clothes clean, etc makes it hard to focus on the extras. I need to remember the little pockets of time that add up. Knit a few rows here, sew a few seams there. It all adds up. By having a more focused list I can get more done in the little pockets of time because (hopefully anyway) I’m not flitting around trying to figure out what to do with my little bit of time.

With that thought, I can hear my kids starting to wake up. Time to get focused!

Do you have choose a word to help guide your intentions? What are you looking forward to most about the New Year?

Happy New Year!

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Shop Update

I’m slowly, but surely getting around to updating my shop with new things that I have been working on over the last couple of months. It’s taken me longer then I had wanted it to, but sometimes that’s how things go. I’ve been working on a couple different things, including upcycled wool diaper cover/soakers and hand knit baby bonnets, along with hand dyed pot holders.

Check it out www.goldfinchlimited.etsy.com