Posted on Leave a comment

Introducing the Lettie Skirt

As a person who has rarely worn skirts in the past, it surprises me that I have become a full-on skirt convert. Maybe it’s always been the type of skirt that has kept me from wearing them much. I’ve never been drawn to gathered, tiered skirts that have been popular over the years and are so easy to make. I always feel like I have too much fabric at my waist and never feel quite like myself in those styles. But this past spring, I strongly desired to design a skirt. I wanted it to be something I felt like myself in – a skirt for pants people, a versatile piece to be worn and styled in multiple ways.

And now, after months of work, many samples, and lots of skirt-wearing, I’m pleased to introduce you to the Lettie Skirt, a minimal-waste six-panel skirt. The Lettie Skirt is a midi-length six-panel skirt featuring a partial button placket with integrated buttonholes, an elastic back, and flat piping details. The skirt’s design creates a versatile, everyday staple with subtle details that elevate the garment. 

The Lettie Skirt PDF pattern comes with three different pattern files – printable pattern layouts (print-at-home and copyshop/A0), dimensioned pattern layouts to draft directly to the fabric, and projector files – along with a detailed instruction booklet. There are 20 sizes, ranging from waist: 25”-58” (63.5-147.3cm) and hip: 33”-66” (83.8-167.6cm).

During the design development phase of the Lettie Skirt, I spent a lot of time looking at inspo photos on Pinterest. I was searching for a feeling – a vibe of a skirt and outfit – not necessarily an exact silhouette to put my spin on. I wanted something that was not overly feminine – again, a skirt for pants people. I wanted to feel the same ease I feel when wearing this skirt as I do when wearing my favorite pair of pants. I also knew I wanted the skirt to be something that could be worn just as easily with a tee shirt and tennis shoes as it could with a button-up and loafers.

After establishing a general idea for the zero-waste pattern layout, it became time to think about the details. And the Lettie Skirt is all about the details – flat piping, integrated buttonholes on the partial button placket, front pleats, and a front slit – all with clean interior finishes.

I’ve been drawn to the idea of integrated buttonholes for a long time. I love the idea that they are built into the garment. I knew that to include something like this in the skirt’s design, I would need elements that the integrated buttonholes could be sewn into. That is where the flat piping comes in. Not only does it provide texture and visual interest to the skirt, but it is an integral part of the buttonhole construction.

These buttonholes are the most complicated part of the construction process (video tutorial). I sewed many samples to determine the best way to integrate functioning buttonholes into the seamline. Every time I sew up a sample, I get a little thrill that the process actually works.

The Lettie Skirt is a slow and satisfying sewing project. The construction details and clean finished seams come together to make a beautifully finished garment. My samples have become wardrobe staples that can be styled in a multitude of ways. This summer that has entailed a tee shirt and tennis shoes, but with cooler weather approaching, I’m looking forward to exploring the new styling options.

I’m looking forward to seeing more Lettie Skirts out in the world. Use the hashtags #LettieSkirt and #GoldfinchLettieSkirt and tag me @goldfinchtextilestudio if you post to social media. If you have any questions about the Lettie Skirt, please don’t hesitate to reach out to me – emily@goldfinch.limited.

Happy sewing!

Posted on 2 Comments

Introducing the Eddie Smock

I’m thrilled to introduce you to my latest zero/minimal waste PDF sewing pattern – the Eddie Smock. The Eddie Smock is a garment that can be worn in many ways; from a fashionable, everyday piece to a functional, utility garment. It is an effortless garment staple with a loose-fitting, A-line silhouette that can be worn fully buttoned or easily layered over other garments to complete an outfit. The Eddie Smock is designed using zero-waste pattern-cutting techniques and features modular pattern pieces that come together to create a whole. The pattern is drafted directly to the fabric using the provided pattern layouts as a guide.

The Eddie Smock was inspired by the classic artist smock. It is a practical garment, that is comfortable, flexible, and functional. The smock is a canvas for the expression of the individual sewist that provides freedom of movement and everyday practicality. You may choose to wear your smock as a fashionable dress or use the tunic as a gardening smock – there is a multitude of ways to wear the Eddie Smock.

The Eddie Smock comes in 3 views – dress, tunic, and blouse. There are 10 sizes ranging from bust/chest: 30”-70” (76.2-178cm) and hips: 32”-72” (81.3-183cm). The pattern is drafted for both B-Cup and D-Cup for all sizes. The pattern is designed to be sewn with light to mid-weight woven fabrics with no stretch; such as linen, cotton (poplin, lawn, gauze, chambray), silk noil, rayon or viscose, Tencel, mid-weight twill or light denim or canvas, etc (3-7oz/square yard | 102-238 GSM).

All views of the Eddie Smock feature slightly dropped shoulders, a button front, an inverted back pleat detail, and a bias-bound shirttail hem. View 1 is dress length with long, gathered sleeves with a button cuff, side tie detail to cinch at the waist or tie in the back, and patch pockets at the sides. View 2 is tunic length with ¾ length, gathered sleeve with a visible bias-bound edge, side tie detail to cinch at the waist or tie in the back, and patch pockets at the sides. View 3 is a blouse with short sleeves.

At some points throughout the design and development of this pattern, it felt as if the pattern had a mind of its own. The design began as a dress, but early in the development phase, I made a sample to test out a different neckline using of a piece of fabric that was shorter than the required length and so became View 2. Upon discovering that I liked the tunic length, I set out to add a blouse version. Due to the zero-waste pattern layout, each view has a different sleeve treatment. The components of each view/layout can be mixed and matched with a bit of creative planning. I plan on digging deeper into these potential adjustments in the near future.

Another design element that evolved over the course of the design process was the B-Cup and D-Cup size ranges. I knew I wanted to offer these options, but with a zero-waste layout, I wasn’t sure of the best way to go about it. I spent a lot of time researching and thinking about the different options. I asked myself “Could darts be added? How?” and “Was the idea even necessary with the amount of bust/chest ease?” In the end, I determined that I could keep the shoulder the same dimension for the B-Cup and D-Cup and change the bust ease to allow for a curvier fit of the D-Cup range. To do so, I needed to change the angle of the side panel. All of this is to say that, this project involved a lot more math than I expected. It was a fun challenge, but I’m so happy to be past that point.

I would like to thank my pattern testers for all their help in bringing the Eddie Smock pattern to the next level. Every time I go through the testing phase of pattern development, I’m blown away by the testers’ willingness to commit their time and energy to help me work out any issues the pattern may have. I’m looking forward to sharing their versions over the next few weeks, both on Instagram and the blog.

I have filmed a sew-along that I am in the process of editing. I will let you know once it’s up on my YouTube channel. I’m also looking forward to exploring a few hacks/modifications that I have been thinking about.

I’m looking forward to seeing everyone’s versions of the Eddie Smock. Use the tags #GoldfinchEddieSmock #EddieSmock and @goldfinchtextilestudio to share your makes. I love seeing people’s different versions of the pattern. If you have any questions about the pattern please don’t hesitate to reach out to me at emily@goldfinch.limited. Thank you for your support!