Tag: Lettie Skirt

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Lettie Skirt Fabric Selection and Notions

Let’s get ready to make your Lettie Skirt! Beyond selecting your size, one of the first decisions you must make is what fabric you want to make your skirt out of. The Lettie Skirt is suitable for various fabric types, from light-weight viscose to mid-weight denim.

When selecting your fabric, one of the first things to consider is your experience with zero-waste pattern cutting. Stable fabrics with more structure, such as cotton, will be significantly easier to cut out than shifty fabrics like silk or rayon. The fabric’s weight and drape will also affect your skirt’s overall structure. Fabrics with more drape will create a more fluid, swishy skirt and fabrics with more structure will have more volume around your body and show the shape of the skirt.

Another thing to consider when selecting your fabric is directional print or nap. Due to the zero-waste pattern layout, the skirt panels are oriented in the upright and inverse positions. If you use a fabric with a directional print or nap, 3 of the skirt panels will be upside down.

I used Vanilla Herringbone Handloom Cotton from Loom and Stars for my final sample. This fabric is a dream to work with – easy to cut out and sew and is oh-so-soft. At only 43″ wide, I adjusted my pattern layout to fit (guidance is included in the instruction booklet for making these types of adjustments). The fabric is not 100% opaque, and depending on the light, the pockets can sometimes be seen, but it’s nothing a slip couldn’t fix. You may consider eliminating the pockets if your fabric is lightweight or not 100% opaque.

Another favorite of mine is Washed Hemp from Lyrical Fabrics. This fabric has both structure and drape, similar to linen. It makes for a great everyday skirt that can easily be dressed up if needed. This fabric is a little shifty so takes a little more consideration when cutting, but overall not too difficult.

My pattern testers used a variety of fabrics: linen, ikat, Tencel cotton, chambray, etc. Each one turned out beautifully!

Clockwise from top left: Mid-weight cotton, light-weight denim Tencel, 5 oz linen, ikat cotton, chambray shirting

Notions

After you select your fabric, you will need to gather your notions. The construction of the Lettie Skirt calls for a few materials you may not be familiar with or are not readily available at your local fabric store. The front waistband is interfaced with non-roll, non-fusible waistband interfacing, such as Ban-rol. This type of interfacing allows the waistband to move and bend with your body without collapsing, folding over, and wrinkling. The elastic in the back of the waistband is 1 1/2″ (3.8cm) wide, heavy, non-roll elastic. You want an elastic that will not fold over to the strain of being stretched. Finally, the partial button placket is finished with two different-sized buttons. The main part of the placket uses 1/2 “(12mm) buttons, and the waistband is secured with a 3/4 “-1” (19-25mm) button. These buttons can match, or a contrasting button could be used on the waistband.

Black mother-of-pearl buttons from Core Fabrics

Below, you will find additional information and resources on where to find these materials:

Interfacing:

If you can’t find Ban-rol (or non-roll, non-fusible mono-filament waistband stabilizer) at your local fabric store, it can be purchased online, in bulk, or by the yard. If you prefer not to use this type of interfacing, then un-stretched elastic can be used as a substitute.

Below you will find some online shops that sell Ban-rol. This is not an extensive list, just a starting point. If you purchase from a shop not listed, let me know as I would love to expand the list.

USA:

Canada:

UK:

Australia:

Elastic:

Not all elastic is created equal. When selecting elastic for your Lettie Skirt, you want to select a non-roll elastic that will retain its shape when stretched. This will make a big difference in the feel and look of the back waistband of your Lettie Skirt.

Below you will find some online shops that sell non-roll elastic. Again, this is not an extensive list, just a starting point.

USA:

Canada:

UK:

Australia:

If you have any questions about fabric selection or notions while planning your Lettie Skirt, please don’t hesitate to contact me – emily@goldfinch.limited.

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Introducing the Lettie Skirt

As a person who has rarely worn skirts in the past, it surprises me that I have become a full-on skirt convert. Maybe it’s always been the type of skirt that has kept me from wearing them much. I’ve never been drawn to gathered, tiered skirts that have been popular over the years and are so easy to make. I always feel like I have too much fabric at my waist and never feel quite like myself in those styles. But this past spring, I strongly desired to design a skirt. I wanted it to be something I felt like myself in – a skirt for pants people, a versatile piece to be worn and styled in multiple ways.

And now, after months of work, many samples, and lots of skirt-wearing, I’m pleased to introduce you to the Lettie Skirt, a minimal-waste six-panel skirt. The Lettie Skirt is a midi-length six-panel skirt featuring a partial button placket with integrated buttonholes, an elastic back, and flat piping details. The skirt’s design creates a versatile, everyday staple with subtle details that elevate the garment. 

The Lettie Skirt PDF pattern comes with three different pattern files – printable pattern layouts (print-at-home and copyshop/A0), dimensioned pattern layouts to draft directly to the fabric, and projector files – along with a detailed instruction booklet. There are 20 sizes, ranging from waist: 25”-58” (63.5-147.3cm) and hip: 33”-66” (83.8-167.6cm).

Lettie Skirt PDF sewing pattern

During the design development phase of the Lettie Skirt, I spent a lot of time looking at inspo photos on Pinterest. I was searching for a feeling – a vibe of a skirt and outfit – not necessarily an exact silhouette to put my spin on. I wanted something that was not overly feminine – again, a skirt for pants people. I wanted to feel the same ease I feel when wearing this skirt as I do when wearing my favorite pair of pants. I also knew I wanted the skirt to be something that could be worn just as easily with a tee shirt and tennis shoes as it could with a button-up and loafers.

After establishing a general idea for the zero-waste pattern layout, it became time to think about the details. And the Lettie Skirt is all about the details – flat piping, integrated buttonholes on the partial button placket, front pleats, and a front slit – all with clean interior finishes.

I’ve been drawn to the idea of integrated buttonholes for a long time. I love the idea that they are built into the garment. I knew that to include something like this in the skirt’s design, I would need elements that the integrated buttonholes could be sewn into. That is where the flat piping comes in. Not only does it provide texture and visual interest to the skirt, but it is an integral part of the buttonhole construction.

These buttonholes are the most complicated part of the construction process (video tutorial). I sewed many samples to determine the best way to integrate functioning buttonholes into the seamline. Every time I sew up a sample, I get a little thrill that the process actually works.

The Lettie Skirt is a slow and satisfying sewing project. The construction details and clean finished seams come together to make a beautifully finished garment. My samples have become wardrobe staples that can be styled in a multitude of ways. This summer that has entailed a tee shirt and tennis shoes, but with cooler weather approaching, I’m looking forward to exploring the new styling options.

Lettie Skirt PDF sewing pattern

I’m looking forward to seeing more Lettie Skirts out in the world. Use the hashtags #LettieSkirt and #GoldfinchLettieSkirt and tag me @goldfinchtextilestudio if you post to social media. If you have any questions about the Lettie Skirt, please don’t hesitate to reach out to me – emily@goldfinch.limited.

Happy sewing!