Pattern testers are an integral part of the pattern development process. I greatly appreciate that people are willing to lend me their time, skills, creativity, and feedback to help me make my patterns the best they can be. Not only is the testing process helpful for me to make sure the pattern works well on a range of bodies and in different fabrics, but it also helps you when you are trying to determine your size and fabric for your own Lettie Skirt.
Below, you will find each tester’s version, including sizing info, fabric used, and any modifications made to the pattern.
Bean selected her size based on her waist measurement. She made her version of the Lettie Skirt from chambray shirting. To fit the pattern layout on her fabric, she rotated it on the cross-grain.
Christina’s waist and hip measurements put her in two different sizes. When selecting her size, she chose the size between her waist and hip measurements. She used a lightweight cotton to make her Lettie Skirt.
Amanda selected her size based on her waist measurement. She used a mid-weight linen to make her skirt. Amanda modified the pattern layout to be able to fit within her selected fabric and she shortened the skirt by 5cm.
Alex’s measurements put her in between sizes, so she sized down and selected the size that was the closest match. She used viscose fabric to make her skirt and shortened the skirt to her preferred length.
Belinda’s measurements put her in two different sizes, and she chose the size in between. She used linen fabric for her skirt.
Rakhel | Waist: 30″ Hips:45″ | Size H
Rakhel’s waist and hip measurements were 5 sizes apart. She chose the size in the middle. Rakhel used 7oz cotton denim to make her skirt.
Thank you again to the testing team! I love seeing all the versions and all the ways the Lettie Skirt can be styled. If you have any questions when selecting your size, please don’t hesitate to reach out – emily@goldfinch.limited. I would love to see your version, too! If you post to IG remember to tag @goldfinchtextilestudio and use hashtags #LettieSkirt and #GoldfinchLettieSkirt.
I had an amazing group of testers for the Pierce Shirt. Everyone’s feedback was thorough and well thought out. I am grateful for their hard work and willingness to help me bring this pattern to life. It’s always a bit nerve-wracking to begin the testing phase after you have spent months working on a pattern. My anxious brain is thinking – Do the instructions make sense? What if the shirt doesn’t fit everyone? Will the testers like it? etc. It’s such a relief when testers start to finish and I can see firsthand that things are coming together.
Below you will find each of the tester’s versions of the Pierce Shirt, along with sizing & fabric info and if any modifications were made to the pattern. Please note, that a few changes were made to the pattern after testing, such as the shape and width of the patch pocket, along with the depth of the back inverted pleat and neckline facing.
Before we get into everyone’s makes, I wanted to send a special thank you to Surge Fabric for collaborating with me on this testing phase. A few testers used fabric purchased through Surge and I also have a pattern hack planned in the next few weeks using their fabric. I’m looking forward to working with the chambray that I have lined up for that project – stay tuned!
Emily’s measurements put her between a size D and E, but she chose to size down to a C for a closer-fitting garment. She used a linen blend to make her Pierce Shirt and she stitched her pintucks together adding an extra textural element to her shirt.
Ros selected her size based on her bust/chest measurement. She used a cotton twill fabric to make her Pierce Shirt and she needed to adjust the pattern layout to work with the fabric width.
Bean made her Pierce Shirt out of lightweight woven cotton from the Warp and Weft collection by Alexia Abegg. In regards to size selection Bean said, “I went with B because I wanted a closer fit, and with 10″ of ease at bust/hip, as well as the armhole opening of almost 16″, I thought this size would be just right. I also knew that a shorter sleeve would be better for me too, so sizing down seemed better for not than having to shorten the sleeve.” She also adjusted the pattern layout to accommodate the narrower width of her fabric. To do so she had to shorten the length of the shirt by 2″.
Cynthia sized down one size. She modified the pattern layout to shorten the sleeves by 2″. She also lengthened the back by 2″ and raised the side split by 1″. Cynthia used thrifted table linens to construct her color-blocked Pierce Shirt.
Mel selected her size based on her bust/chest measurements. She used a washed rayon to make her Pierce Shirt. She didn’t make any changes to the pattern layout.
Jules made their Pierce Shirt out of 100% undyed linen. They sized down to allow for approximately 8-10″ of positive ease which is their preferred amount of ease in a garment. The sleeve length was shortened by about 1″ to accommodate fabric width.
Hayley sized her size based on her bust/chest measurement. She used cotton chambray to make her Pierce Shirt and she didn’t make any changes to the pattern layout.
Jo | Bust/Chest: 46″ Waist: 48″ Hips: 56″ | Size L
Jo selected her size based on her bust/chest measurement and made her shirt out of soft, drapey linen. She reduced the width of the pattern layout to work with her fabric width – from 54″ to 52″.
Erika chose to make one size down from the size that correlated with her bust/chest measurement as she wanted a little less ease. She used a light-weight linen to make her shirt and didn’t make any changes to the pattern layout.
Maggie selected her size based on her bust/chest measurement. She used a thrifted, 100% cotton duvet cover to make her Pierce Shirt and didn’t make any modifications to the pattern layout.
Kayla | Bust/Chest: 35″ Waist: 29″ High Hip: 38″ Full Hip 43″ | Size G
Kayla’s measurements put her in various sizes (size F for the bust/chest and size I for the hip). She made G – one size up from her bust/chest. She used Luxor Heavy Linen Slub from Surge Fabric. Kayla didn’t make any changes to the pattern layout.
Rebecca’s bust/chest measurement fell between a Size D and a Size E so she sized down to a Size D. She used Limerick 3.5oz linen from Surge Fabric to make her shirt. She also used a contrasting bias binding to finish her neckline and hem.
Toni | Bust/Chest: 38″ Waist: 32″ Hips: 42″ | Size H
Toni selected her size based on her bust/chest measurement. She didn’t make any changes to the pattern layout and she used Robert Kaufman Lisbon brushed Melange (100% cotton) in gray from Surge Fabric.
Fred selected his size based on his bust/chest measurement and didn’t make any changes to the pattern layout. Fred used a medium-weight linen/cotton shirting to construct his Pierce Shirt. He also used a contrasting bias binding to finish the neckline and the hem.
Dorina used her bust/chest measurement to select the size for her Pierce Shirt. She used Japanese cotton shirting that is roughly 80gsm in weight. Dorina adjusted the length to accommodate for height difference (she is 5’3”). Also, she omitted the pocket and used the pieces to create sleeve straps and used the neckline cut-out to reinforce the bottom corner hems at the back.
Lee-Ann selected her size based on her bust/chest measurements and didn’t make any changes to the pattern layout. She used a lightweight polyester to make her Pierce Shirt.
Mandy used her bust/chest measurement to select her size. She used cotton poplin fabric to make her Pierce Shirt. She used narrower fabric than the pattern called for, so she cut the largest pieces out first on one strip and then prioritized the collar and cuffs, etc.
Kerry sized down by one size when making her Pierce Shirt. She used a lightweight cotton and adjusted the pattern layout to accommodate her fabric width.
Jessica | Bust/Chest: | Size B
Jessica chose to size down by two sizes to achieve her desired amount of ease in the garment. She used a lightweight linen/cotton fabric to make her Pierce Shirt. The only pattern adjustment that she made was the change length of the sleeves.
Aria sized down when selecting her size. She used the finished garment measurements as a guide to determine how much ease she wanted in her Pierce Shirt. She used a woven cotton fabric to construct her shirt and changed the length of the sleeves.
Marlies selected her size based on her bust/chest measurement. She used lightweight cotton to make her Pierce Shirt and didn’t make any adjustments to the pattern layout.
Clotilde chose to size down when selecting her size. She used a ready-to-wear shirt that she liked the fit of and compared those measurements to the finished garment measurements to help with size selection. Clotilde used a very lightweight cotton fabric to make her Pierce Shirt.
Courtney | Bust/Chest: 47″ Waist: 40″ Hips: 45″ | Size K
Courtney sized down by one size because they prefer a closer fit. Courtney used a cotton bedsheet to make their Pierce Shirt and didn’t make any adjustments to the pattern layout.
Cristina selected her size based on her bust/chest measurement and didn’t make any changes to the pattern layout. She used lightweight linen fabric to make her Pierce Shirt.
Antje selected her size based on her bust measurements and she didn’t make any adjustments to the pattern layout.
As you can see, this testing group knocked it out of the park. I’m blown away by their hard work and dedication to testing the Pierce Shirt. Thank you!
I hope seeing everyone’s versions is helpful. When I am thinking about a new sewing project, I like to be able to look at other sewists finished garments (I do the same if it’s a knitting project). Seeing the garment on different bodies, in various fabrics, and different sizes, helps me figure out the direction that I want to go when making my version. If you have any questions when selecting your size or fabric, please don’t hesitate to email me any questions – emily@goldfinch.limited
I look forward to seeing more Pierce Shirts out in the world!
I’d first like to thank everyone for the warm welcome to the Lynn Vest. It feels good to have this pattern out in the world as fall is beginning to settle in. I know I’m looking forward to wearing layers as the weather gets cooler.
With the release of a new pattern I always like to show off the testers versions – not only as an appreciation of the hard work that they put in, but also to give you an idea of how the pattern looks on different people and in a variety of fabrics. It is helpful to be able to see someone wearing a similar size that you are considering making or see the garment in a fabric type that you may want to use. Below you will find each tester’s measurements, the size they made, what fabric was used, and a run down of any modifications that they may have made for the pattern. Everyone’s body measurements are listed in following format: Bust/Chest, Waist, Hips, Height.
As a note, during the testing period, we discovered that there was a bit too much ease at the waist/hips. Some testers had finished their garments at this point, while others were still working on theirs. Because of this, some people went back to bring in the side seam and a few people have plans to update theirs in the future.
Kerry | 36, 28, 40, 5’6” | Size B
Kerry’s Lynn Vest is made from a camel wool blend for the main fabric and a mystery upholstery/decor fabric for the lining. She chose to only use two of the pockets. Kerry has plans to make a version that is car coat or duster length.
Lucas | 39”, 36”, 40”, 6’2” | Size D
Lucas made their Lynn Vest out of light cotton denim (main fabric) and cotton shirting (lining). Lucas added 2” to the length of the vest to accommodate their height. They were in between sizes and choose to size up, but in retrospect they think sizing down would have been a better choice.
Amanda | 118cm, 100cm, 127cm | Size E
Amanda’s Lynn Vest is made from two thrifted pieces of woven fabric. She suspects that the main fabric is a cotton/linen blend and the lining is a poly/cotton blend. Both fabrics have quite a bit of drape. She didn’t make any modifications to the pattern.
Vathsala | 38”, 32”, 42”, 5’7” | Size C
Vathsala made her Lynn Vest from a light-medium weight textured cotton for the main fabric and a light-medium weight cotton lawn for the lining. She used leftover fabric from a previous project so she changed the layout the accommodate the fabric on hand. Because of this her collar is made from the lining fabric instead of the main fabric.
Courtney | 47”, 39”, 45”, 5’6” | Size E
Courtney made their Lynn Vest out of a thick cotton for the main fabric and a lighter weight denim/chambray for the lining. Courtney changed the pattern layout to accommodate the fabric that they had on hand. They drew the pattern pieces out on paper first so they would be able find places the pattern pieces would fit within the scrap fabric.
Fred | 107cm, 107cm, 112cm, 168cm | Size D
Fred’s Lynn Vest is made from cotton canvas for the main fabric (an old curtain!) and the lining is cotton poplin. Fred ended up bringing in the side seams by 1” after he was finished with the vest (this change has since been made to the pattern).
Anna | 42”, 32”, 42” | Size D
Anna used a mix of scraps to make her Lynn Vest. These scraps included a mix of heavy weight denim, wide whale corduroy, and hand woven cotton. Anna excluded in the interior pockets on her vest. Anna also took in side seams by an additional 1/2” per side, as she finished before the final pattern updates were made.
Amelia | 84cm, 70cm, 100cm | Size C
Amelia’s Lynn Vest is made from linen and a medium weight, upcycled cotton floral curtain. Due to the weight of her fabrics, she was unable to topstitch the vest by hand.
Jo | 46”, 48”, 58” | Size E and F
Jo made two Lynn Vest’s during the testing period. For the Size E version, she used linen and waxed cotton. Jo added 1/2” to the side panels and then tapered them so 1” was removed from the top of the side panel and 2” was added to the bottom. This resulted in a narrower waist and a wider hip. For the Size F version, she used linen and striped homespun cotton. She removed 1.125” from each side panel (this was prior to 1/2” being removed from each side panel for the final pattern).
Samy | 33”, 26”, 41”, 5’2” | Size C
Samy used medium weight canvas and a light cotton blend to make her Lynn Vest. She adjusted the size of some of the pockets. Samy also used a 5/8″ seam allowance at the side seam to bring the vest in a bit. She had cut the side panel pattern pieces to the original width and by increasing the seam allowance, she was able to bring the side panels in to the updated width. Increasing the side panel seam allowance is an easy way to adjust the fit of the vest.
Cayden | 36”, 27”, 36”, 5’ 9” | Size B
Cayden made her Lynn Vest from an upcycled tablecloth and thrifted heavy weight cotton gingham. Cayden combined the side panels so there was only one side panel per side. She also left off the collar and added ties to close the front. She also adjusted the size and quantity of the pockets.
Jacqui | 34”, 30”, 38”, 5’7” | Size B
Jacqui used linen for the main fabric and cotton for the lining of her Lynn Vest. She adjusted the pattern layout to accommodate her fabric width. She also used one of the pockets as a liner to a create sturdier pocket.
Mallory | 37″, 29″, 39″ | Size B
Mallory opted to quilt her Lynn Vest. She used a variety of fabrics to create the main fabric; including linen, cotton, sandwashed cotton crepe, viscose linen noil and hemp. For the lining, she uses a thrifted cotton sheet. She used an old flannel sheet for the batting. When topstitching the vest, she had some difficulty due to all the layers, but she used some needle nose pliers to help pull the need through.
Mandy | 44”, 37”, 49”, 5’9” | Size D
Mandy made her Lynn Vest from 12 oz. denim (main) and light ticking (lining). She extended her collar to the hem since she had extra fabric. Mandy also used topstitching details along the pocket edges.
Rose | 49”, 45”, 54”, 5’6” | Size F
Rose made this (hand-sewn!) Lynn Vest for her partner, Christine. Rose used African waxed cotton and boiled wool. She tapered the side panels by increasing the seam allowance at the underarms. She also adjusted the width and orientation of a few of the pockets.
Rebecca | 38”, 29”, 40”, 5’6” | Size C
Rebecca’s Lynn Vest is made from Nevada linen for the main fabric and cotton canvas for the lining. She adjusted the pattern layout to work with the width her fabric. She needed to cut the collar and a few pockets from a separate piece of fabric.
Allison | 48”, 41”, 51” | Size F
Allison made her Lynn Vest from canvas and a cotton sheet. Allison finished her vest before the width of the side panels were adjusted. She had a great idea to add an inverted box pleat at the side panel to bring in waist and create a little flare at the hips. This fit adjustment worked really well for her curves. Adding the pleat at the underarm is another easy way to adjust the fit and it adds a nice visual detail.
If you have any questions about size and fit while planning your Lynn Vest, don’t hesitate to reach out. I would be happy to help you figure out any potential fitting issues. And, thank you again to all the testers! I’m so appreciative of all the support during the pattern making process.
Every time I go through the testing phase of pattern design, I’m hopeful but also nervous about how the process will go. It can be a bit nerve-wracking having your work looked at for the first time after you have been staring at it for months. One of the points of pattern testing is having help finding any errors in the instructions and drafting but also seeing the finished garment through the eyes of other makers besides myself. I love seeing all the different types of fabric used, modifications made to suit one’s body & preferences, and overall interpretation of the design and how it is styled.
During the testing phase, it was discovered that the sleeves for view 1 were too short. You will notice that for some testers their long sleeves are a bit short but still wearable. Some testers took this as an opportunity to make a few mods to the sleeve finishes. The sleeve length has since been adjusted.
Below is a look at the testers’ makes. I have included all the testers’ measurements, the version made, and if they had any potential plans on how to use any remaining fabric from the project.
Ambrosia made View 1 out of a lightweight slubby cotton plaid. She made size C in the D-cup range and lengthened the dress by 3″. Ambrosia plans to wear the Eddie Smock not only as a dress but as a layering piece and a duster/light jacket. Due to the fabric width that she started with, she had very minimal fabric remaining and will probably use the scraps for stuffing.
Michele was my first test fitter. She was instrumental in helping me through the early phases of hashing out the B-Cup & D-Cup ranges. Michele made two versions and with each, she went “off-road” a bit to make the garment work for her. Here she made View 1 in the B-cup range (even though she is a D-cup) to see how much the garment would rise in the front. It did rise, but she is not bothered by this. Michele included plenty of personalized details throughout the smock by adding details to the pockets and the neck facing.
Christina made View 1, size C in the D-Cup range without any modifications. She used light-to-midweight cotton to make her version. Christina used bias binding to finish her sleeves since they ended up being a bit short for her. Her version shows how view 2 sleeves would look with view 1 body. Christina plans to wear her version as a dress, but also as a duster/layering piece. Christina made a Pearl Head Scarf by Spaghetti Western Sewing with her remaining fabric.
Rebecca used 5.3oz softened linen to make View 2. She didn’t make any modifications to the pattern layout. When deciding how wide to make her sleeve openings, Rebecca made sure they were wide enough that she could easily layer a long sleeve shirt under the tunic. Rebecca plans to use her remnant fabric to make a Thread & Sprout nature top and/or pillowcase.
Jess made View 1, size H in the D-cup range. She didn’t make any modifications to the pattern. Jess used a poly-viscose to make her dress. Her pockets ended up being a bit short so that was something that I was able to adjust in the final pattern layout. She had a long, thin piece of fabric remaining that she thought could be made into a variety of accessories – a hairband, scrunchies, hair ribbon, wrapped on chunky hoop earrings, etc.
Bean made two versions of view 3, each with a different sleeve length. She was able to play with the pattern layout and made adjustments to make a version with 3/4 sleeves and one with long sleeves. I love that she was able to take the concept of the pattern and tweak it to work for her preferences and the fabric that she had on hand. Bean had a great idea of making a removable collar with some of the remaining fabric.
Nele made View 3 out of a very flowy, lightweight fabric. She made size B in the B-cup range without any modifications. While the shifty fabric was a bit more difficult to cut out, the finished blouse is lovely. Nele had minimal fabric remaining as she had previously used some of the fabric and she was able to get the pattern layout in the remaining piece.
Frankie made View 1, Size C, in the B-cup range. They used yarned-dyed cotton to make their version. Frankie only made modifications to adjust the layout to accommodate the slightly smaller fabric width. Frankie plans to use the garment as a layering piece. They had remaining fabric from the total cut and have already made a Pearl Head Scarf by Spaghetti Western Sewing.
Jini Kai made View 2 out of lightweight linen. She made size E in the D-Cup range without any modifications. She chose to make her side ties from the remaining bias binding instead of using the provided pattern piece for the side ties. Jini Kai had minimal fabric remaining once the project was complete. She recommends making patchwork clothing with the scraps a la this patchwork clothing tutorial from Elbe Textiles.
Eowyn made View 1 in size B, B-cup range. She used a piece of thrifted yarn-dyed cotton plaid to make her dress. Due to the shorter sleeves during the time of testing, Eowyn decided to finish her sleeves with bias-binding ties. She also chose to position her patch pockets in the front of the dress instead of on the sides. Eowyn plans to use any remnant fabric for toy-making projects.
Erika made View 1 out of fine corduroy fabric. She made size A in the B-cup range. She adjusted the layout slightly by placing the side tie pattern piece in the horizontal direction because her fabric was only 43″ wide. Erika had 11.5″ of fabric remaining and she is considering making a fanny pack with it.
Beth chose to make View 1 out of heavier-weight linen. She sewed a size D in the B-Cup range. She changed the length to accommodate her height and also moved the pockets up to better work for her. Beth is going to wear the dress for a bit and decide if she wants to shorten the ties some and/or add more buttons.
Amanda made View 3 out of cotton shirting. She made size E in the D-Cup range. She didn’t make any adjustments to the pattern layout. Amanda decided to leave off the buttons for now and use the blouse as a layering piece. I also love how she styled the blouse by crossing over the front panels and tucking them in. Amanda plans on incorporating the small amount of remaining fabric into a patchwork project that she is currently working on.
Laurie used a heavier-weight mystery fabric from their stash to make View 1. They chose to make size D in the D-Cup range. Laurie’s measurements put them directly between two sizes in the bust. They chose to size down and in the end, they think that sizing up may be the better option, especially in a heavier fabric. Laurie plans to use this Eddie Smock as a duster. With the small amount of remaining fabric, they thought adding a ruffle or collar to the smock would be a good option.
Jeanne chose to make View 2 out of cotton lawn. She made size D in the B-cup range. Jeanne adjusted the length of the overall smock (shortened by 4″) and the length of the sleeves by 2″. Due to her length adjustments, she was able to make her pockets out of one piece instead of piecing two together. She also positioned her patch pockets in the front of the tunic inside of the sides.
Chris made View 1 in size C, B-cup range. She chose a cotton/linen blend with a fairly loose weave. She adjusted the overall length and the sleeve length to accommodate her height, but the sleeves still end up being a bit short for her. Her sleeves ended up being 3/4 length with bias bound placket and edge. Chris will use the remaining fabric for pocket facings, etc.
Andrea reused an old linen bedsheet to make her version of the Eddie Smock. She sewed her version in a size D using the B-Cup range. Andrea used 3/4 length sleeves and chose to leave them un-gathered. Andrea experimented with different ways to tie her smock.
Lucy used lightweight denim to make View 2 of the Eddie Smock. She sewed a size D in the B-cup range, with 4″ of length to accommodate her height. Lucy plans to wear the smock as a utility type of garment and she chose to include visible topstitching to enhance this look. She had about a 4″ wide strip of fabric remaining and she plans on using it for patchwork projects.
Dani made View 2, size E in the D-cup range. She used a cotton bedsheet as a toile and plans to use it as a painting smock and she plans on adding 4 large buttons to close it over her clothes while painting, etc. Dani didn’t make any adjustments to the pattern layout. Dani is considering making a denim version for gardening with extra pockets. She plans on making more continuous bias binding with her remaining fabric.
I hope seeing all the testers’ versions is helpful when you are planning your own version. While the Eddie Smock is not intended to be an overly fit garment, it is helpful to review the finished garment measurements and make adjustments as needed. Please don’t hesitate to reach out to me via email if you have questions about selecting your size – emily@goldfinch.limited.
Once again, thank you to all my amazing testers! Going back through all the photos has me feeling so grateful for everyone who is so willing to help make sewing patterns better.
