Introducing the Eddie Smock

I’m thrilled to introduce you to my latest zero/minimal waste PDF sewing pattern – the Eddie Smock. The Eddie Smock is a garment that can be worn in many ways; from a fashionable, everyday piece to a functional, utility garment. It is an effortless garment staple with a loose-fitting, A-line silhouette that can be worn fully buttoned or easily layered over other garments to complete an outfit. The Eddie Smock is designed using zero-waste pattern-cutting techniques and features modular pattern pieces that come together to create a whole. The pattern is drafted directly to the fabric using the provided pattern layouts as a guide.

The Eddie Smock was inspired by the classic artist smock. It is a practical garment, that is comfortable, flexible, and functional. The smock is a canvas for the expression of the individual sewist that provides freedom of movement and everyday practicality. You may choose to wear your smock as a fashionable dress or use the tunic as a gardening smock – there is a multitude of ways to wear the Eddie Smock.

The Eddie Smock comes in 3 views – dress, tunic, and blouse. There are 10 sizes ranging from bust/chest: 30”-70” (76.2-178cm) and hips: 32”-72” (81.3-183cm). The pattern is drafted for both B-Cup and D-Cup for all sizes. The pattern is designed to be sewn with light to mid-weight woven fabrics with no stretch; such as linen, cotton (poplin, lawn, gauze, chambray), silk noil, rayon or viscose, Tencel, mid-weight twill or light denim or canvas, etc (3-7oz/square yard | 102-238 GSM).

All views of the Eddie Smock feature slightly dropped shoulders, a button front, an inverted back pleat detail, and a bias-bound shirttail hem. View 1 is dress length with long, gathered sleeves with a button cuff, side tie detail to cinch at the waist or tie in the back, and patch pockets at the sides. View 2 is tunic length with ¾ length, gathered sleeve with a visible bias-bound edge, side tie detail to cinch at the waist or tie in the back, and patch pockets at the sides. View 3 is a blouse with short sleeves.

At some points throughout the design and development of this pattern, it felt as if the pattern had a mind of its own. The design began as a dress, but early in the development phase, I made a sample to test out a different neckline using of a piece of fabric that was shorter than the required length and so became View 2. Upon discovering that I liked the tunic length, I set out to add a blouse version. Due to the zero-waste pattern layout, each view has a different sleeve treatment. The components of each view/layout can be mixed and matched with a bit of creative planning. I plan on digging deeper into these potential adjustments in the near future.

Another design element that evolved over the course of the design process was the B-Cup and D-Cup size ranges. I knew I wanted to offer these options, but with a zero-waste layout, I wasn’t sure of the best way to go about it. I spent a lot of time researching and thinking about the different options. I asked myself “Could darts be added? How?” and “Was the idea even necessary with the amount of bust/chest ease?” In the end, I determined that I could keep the shoulder the same dimension for the B-Cup and D-Cup and change the bust ease to allow for a curvier fit of the D-Cup range. To do so, I needed to change the angle of the side panel. All of this is to say that, this project involved a lot more math than I expected. It was a fun challenge, but I’m so happy to be past that point.

I would like to thank my pattern testers for all their help in bringing the Eddie Smock pattern to the next level. Every time I go through the testing phase of pattern development, I’m blown away by the testers’ willingness to commit their time and energy to help me work out any issues the pattern may have. I’m looking forward to sharing their versions over the next few weeks, both on Instagram and the blog.

I have filmed a sew-along that I am in the process of editing. I will let you know once it’s up on my YouTube channel. I’m also looking forward to exploring a few hacks/modifications that I have been thinking about.

I’m looking forward to seeing everyone’s versions of the Eddie Smock. Use the tags #GoldfinchEddieSmock #EddieSmock and @goldfinchtextilestudio to share your makes. I love seeing people’s different versions of the pattern. If you have any questions about the pattern please don’t hesitate to reach out to me at emily@goldfinch.limited. Thank you for your support!