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Eddie Smock Tester Makes

Every time I go through the testing phase of pattern design, I’m hopeful but also nervous about how the process will go. It can be a bit nerve-wracking having your work looked at for the first time after you have been staring at it for months. One of the points of pattern testing is having help finding any errors in the instructions and drafting but also seeing the finished garment through the eyes of other makers besides myself. I love seeing all the different types of fabric used, modifications made to suit one’s body & preferences, and overall interpretation of the design and how it is styled.

During the testing phase, it was discovered that the sleeves for view 1 were too short. You will notice that for some testers their long sleeves are a bit short but still wearable. Some testers took this as an opportunity to make a few mods to the sleeve finishes. The sleeve length has since been adjusted.

Below is a look at the testers’ makes. I have included all the testers’ measurements, the version made, and if they had any potential plans on how to use any remaining fabric from the project.

Ambrosia: Chest/Bust – 40″, Hips- 41″, Height – 5’9″ | View 1, Size C, D-CUp | @ambrosiakramer

Ambrosia made View 1 out of a lightweight slubby cotton plaid. She made size C in the D-cup range and lengthened the dress by 3″. Ambrosia plans to wear the Eddie Smock not only as a dress but as a layering piece and a duster/light jacket. Due to the fabric width that she started with, she had very minimal fabric remaining and will probably use the scraps for stuffing.

Michele: Chest/Bust – 47.5″, Hips – 55″, Height – 5’2″ | View 1, Size E, B-Cup | @handmadelife.knit.sew

Michele was my first test fitter. She was instrumental in helping me through the early phases of hashing out the B-Cup & D-Cup ranges. Michele made two versions and with each, she went “off-road” a bit to make the garment work for her. Here she made View 1 in the B-cup range (even though she is a D-cup) to see how much the garment would rise in the front. It did rise, but she is not bothered by this. Michele included plenty of personalized details throughout the smock by adding details to the pockets and the neck facing.

Christina: Chest/Bust – 40″, Hips – 47″, Height – 5’9” | View 1, Size C, D-Cup | @ccmadethat

Christina made View 1, size C in the D-Cup range without any modifications. She used light-to-midweight cotton to make her version. Christina used bias binding to finish her sleeves since they ended up being a bit short for her. Her version shows how view 2 sleeves would look with view 1 body. Christina plans to wear her version as a dress, but also as a duster/layering piece. Christina made a Pearl Head Scarf by Spaghetti Western Sewing with her remaining fabric.

Rebecca: Chest/Bust – 34″, Hips – 37″, Height – 5’3″ | View 2, Size B, B-Cup | @rebeccacreechcreates

Rebecca used 5.3oz softened linen to make View 2. She didn’t make any modifications to the pattern layout. When deciding how wide to make her sleeve openings, Rebecca made sure they were wide enough that she could easily layer a long sleeve shirt under the tunic. Rebecca plans to use her remnant fabric to make a Thread & Sprout nature top and/or pillowcase.

Jess: Chest/Bust – 58”, Hips – 62”, Height – 5’6″ | View 1, Size H, D-Cup | @jessicarosesews

Jess made View 1, size H in the D-cup range. She didn’t make any modifications to the pattern. Jess used a poly-viscose to make her dress. Her pockets ended up being a bit short so that was something that I was able to adjust in the final pattern layout. She had a long, thin piece of fabric remaining that she thought could be made into a variety of accessories – a hairband, scrunchies, hair ribbon, wrapped on chunky hoop earrings, etc.

Bean: Chest/Bust – 35.5″, Hips – 36.5″, Height – 5’5″ | View 3, Size B, B-Cup | @sewsoybean

Bean made two versions of view 3, each with a different sleeve length. She was able to play with the pattern layout and made adjustments to make a version with 3/4 sleeves and one with long sleeves. I love that she was able to take the concept of the pattern and tweak it to work for her preferences and the fabric that she had on hand. Bean had a great idea of making a removable collar with some of the remaining fabric.

Nele: Chest/Bust – 34.5″, Hips – 39″, Height – 5’7″ | View 3, Size B, B-Cup | @cornelia_np

Nele made View 3 out of a very flowy, lightweight fabric. She made size B in the B-cup range without any modifications. While the shifty fabric was a bit more difficult to cut out, the finished blouse is lovely. Nele had minimal fabric remaining as she had previously used some of the fabric and she was able to get the pattern layout in the remaining piece.

Frankie: Upper bust – 36.5″, Full bust – 34″, Waist – 33″, Hip – 43″, Height – 5’7” | View 1, Size C, B-Cup | @gaseous.gay

Frankie made View 1, Size C, in the B-cup range. They used yarned-dyed cotton to make their version. Frankie only made modifications to adjust the layout to accommodate the slightly smaller fabric width. Frankie plans to use the garment as a layering piece. They had remaining fabric from the total cut and have already made a Pearl Head Scarf by Spaghetti Western Sewing.

Jini Kai: Chest/Bust – 48″, Hips – 49″ | View 2, Size E, D-Cup | @jini.kai

Jini Kai made View 2 out of lightweight linen. She made size E in the D-Cup range without any modifications. She chose to make her side ties from the remaining bias binding instead of using the provided pattern piece for the side ties. Jini Kai had minimal fabric remaining once the project was complete. She recommends making patchwork clothing with the scraps a la this patchwork clothing tutorial from Elbe Textiles.

Eowyn: Chest/Bust – 34″, Hips – 36″, Height – 5’5″ | View 1, Size B, B-Cup | @mr.and.mrs.rat

Eowyn made View 1 in size B, B-cup range. She used a piece of thrifted yarn-dyed cotton plaid to make her dress. Due to the shorter sleeves during the time of testing, Eowyn decided to finish her sleeves with bias-binding ties. She also chose to position her patch pockets in the front of the dress instead of on the sides. Eowyn plans to use any remnant fabric for toy-making projects.

Erika: Chest/Bust – 32″, Hips – 34″, Height – 5’6 | View 1, Size A, B-Cup | @ricky_sews

Erika made View 1 out of fine corduroy fabric. She made size A in the B-cup range. She adjusted the layout slightly by placing the side tie pattern piece in the horizontal direction because her fabric was only 43″ wide. Erika had 11.5″ of fabric remaining and she is considering making a fanny pack with it.

Beth: Chest/Bust – 48″, Hips – 49″ | View 1, Size D, B-Cup | @bettiegee

Beth chose to make View 1 out of heavier-weight linen. She sewed a size D in the B-Cup range. She changed the length to accommodate her height and also moved the pockets up to better work for her. Beth is going to wear the dress for a bit and decide if she wants to shorten the ties some and/or add more buttons.

Amanda: Chest/Bust – 50″, Hips – 49″, Height – 5’5” | View 3, Size E, D-Cup | @Mandabe4r

Amanda made View 3 out of cotton shirting. She made size E in the D-Cup range. She didn’t make any adjustments to the pattern layout. Amanda decided to leave off the buttons for now and use the blouse as a layering piece. I also love how she styled the blouse by crossing over the front panels and tucking them in. Amanda plans on incorporating the small amount of remaining fabric into a patchwork project that she is currently working on.

Laurie: Chest/Bust – 49″, Hips – 52″, Height – 5’5″ | View 1, Size D, D-Cup | @Serendipitystation

Laurie used a heavier-weight mystery fabric from their stash to make View 1. They chose to make size D in the D-Cup range. Laurie’s measurements put them directly between two sizes in the bust. They chose to size down and in the end, they think that sizing up may be the better option, especially in a heavier fabric. Laurie plans to use this Eddie Smock as a duster. With the small amount of remaining fabric, they thought adding a ruffle or collar to the smock would be a good option.

Jeanne: Chest/Bust – 37″, Hips 50″, Height – 5’2.5″ | View 2, Size D, B-Cup | @prairie_sewn

Jeanne chose to make View 2 out of cotton lawn. She made size D in the B-cup range. Jeanne adjusted the length of the overall smock (shortened by 4″) and the length of the sleeves by 2″. Due to her length adjustments, she was able to make her pockets out of one piece instead of piecing two together. She also positioned her patch pockets in the front of the tunic inside of the sides.

Chris: Chest/Bust – 38.5″, Hips – 44.5″ | View 1, Size C, B-Cup | @cnielsenns

Chris made View 1 in size C, B-cup range. She chose a cotton/linen blend with a fairly loose weave. She adjusted the overall length and the sleeve length to accommodate her height, but the sleeves still end up being a bit short for her. Her sleeves ended up being 3/4 length with bias bound placket and edge. Chris will use the remaining fabric for pocket facings, etc.

Andrea | View 1, Size D, B- Cup | @andreawedley

Andrea reused an old linen bedsheet to make her version of the Eddie Smock. She sewed her version in a size D using the B-Cup range. Andrea used 3/4 length sleeves and chose to leave them un-gathered. Andrea experimented with different ways to tie her smock.

Lucy: Chest/Bust – 40″, Hips – 44″, Height – 6’1″ | View 2, Size D, B-Cup | @Lucyjobeeh

Lucy used lightweight denim to make View 2 of the Eddie Smock. She sewed a size D in the B-cup range, with 4″ of length to accommodate her height. Lucy plans to wear the smock as a utility type of garment and she chose to include visible topstitching to enhance this look. She had about a 4″ wide strip of fabric remaining and she plans on using it for patchwork projects.

Dani: Chest/Bust – 49.5″, Hips 50″, Height – 5’4″ | View 2, Size E, D-Cup | @maviecreative

Dani made View 2, size E in the D-cup range. She used a cotton bedsheet as a toile and plans to use it as a painting smock and she plans on adding 4 large buttons to close it over her clothes while painting, etc. Dani didn’t make any adjustments to the pattern layout. Dani is considering making a denim version for gardening with extra pockets. She plans on making more continuous bias binding with her remaining fabric.

I hope seeing all the testers’ versions is helpful when you are planning your own version. While the Eddie Smock is not intended to be an overly fit garment, it is helpful to review the finished garment measurements and make adjustments as needed. Please don’t hesitate to reach out to me via email if you have questions about selecting your size – emily@goldfinch.limited.

Once again, thank you to all my amazing testers! Going back through all the photos has me feeling so grateful for everyone who is so willing to help make sewing patterns better.

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Introducing the Eddie Smock

I’m thrilled to introduce you to my latest zero/minimal waste PDF sewing pattern – the Eddie Smock. The Eddie Smock is a garment that can be worn in many ways; from a fashionable, everyday piece to a functional, utility garment. It is an effortless garment staple with a loose-fitting, A-line silhouette that can be worn fully buttoned or easily layered over other garments to complete an outfit. The Eddie Smock is designed using zero-waste pattern-cutting techniques and features modular pattern pieces that come together to create a whole. The pattern is drafted directly to the fabric using the provided pattern layouts as a guide.

The Eddie Smock was inspired by the classic artist smock. It is a practical garment, that is comfortable, flexible, and functional. The smock is a canvas for the expression of the individual sewist that provides freedom of movement and everyday practicality. You may choose to wear your smock as a fashionable dress or use the tunic as a gardening smock – there is a multitude of ways to wear the Eddie Smock.

The Eddie Smock comes in 3 views – dress, tunic, and blouse. There are 10 sizes ranging from bust/chest: 30”-70” (76.2-178cm) and hips: 32”-72” (81.3-183cm). The pattern is drafted for both B-Cup and D-Cup for all sizes. The pattern is designed to be sewn with light to mid-weight woven fabrics with no stretch; such as linen, cotton (poplin, lawn, gauze, chambray), silk noil, rayon or viscose, Tencel, mid-weight twill or light denim or canvas, etc (3-7oz/square yard | 102-238 GSM).

All views of the Eddie Smock feature slightly dropped shoulders, a button front, an inverted back pleat detail, and a bias-bound shirttail hem. View 1 is dress length with long, gathered sleeves with a button cuff, side tie detail to cinch at the waist or tie in the back, and patch pockets at the sides. View 2 is tunic length with ¾ length, gathered sleeve with a visible bias-bound edge, side tie detail to cinch at the waist or tie in the back, and patch pockets at the sides. View 3 is a blouse with short sleeves.

At some points throughout the design and development of this pattern, it felt as if the pattern had a mind of its own. The design began as a dress, but early in the development phase, I made a sample to test out a different neckline using of a piece of fabric that was shorter than the required length and so became View 2. Upon discovering that I liked the tunic length, I set out to add a blouse version. Due to the zero-waste pattern layout, each view has a different sleeve treatment. The components of each view/layout can be mixed and matched with a bit of creative planning. I plan on digging deeper into these potential adjustments in the near future.

Another design element that evolved over the course of the design process was the B-Cup and D-Cup size ranges. I knew I wanted to offer these options, but with a zero-waste layout, I wasn’t sure of the best way to go about it. I spent a lot of time researching and thinking about the different options. I asked myself “Could darts be added? How?” and “Was the idea even necessary with the amount of bust/chest ease?” In the end, I determined that I could keep the shoulder the same dimension for the B-Cup and D-Cup and change the bust ease to allow for a curvier fit of the D-Cup range. To do so, I needed to change the angle of the side panel. All of this is to say that, this project involved a lot more math than I expected. It was a fun challenge, but I’m so happy to be past that point.

I would like to thank my pattern testers for all their help in bringing the Eddie Smock pattern to the next level. Every time I go through the testing phase of pattern development, I’m blown away by the testers’ willingness to commit their time and energy to help me work out any issues the pattern may have. I’m looking forward to sharing their versions over the next few weeks, both on Instagram and the blog.

I have filmed a sew-along that I am in the process of editing. I will let you know once it’s up on my YouTube channel. I’m also looking forward to exploring a few hacks/modifications that I have been thinking about.

I’m looking forward to seeing everyone’s versions of the Eddie Smock. Use the tags #GoldfinchEddieSmock #EddieSmock and @goldfinchtextilestudio to share your makes. I love seeing people’s different versions of the pattern. If you have any questions about the pattern please don’t hesitate to reach out to me at emily@goldfinch.limited. Thank you for your support!